Opinions about my new tank

[Jon Fishman]

I agree..... it looks like it's doing fine. I would get 'good' water, and be prepared to do a lot more water-changes if necessary, and monitor your levels to get your ammonia under control, but I would just keep it and keep an eye on it.

What lights are you using? (sorry if mentioned previously)

 

[Eve]

Try pointing a power head at it or try ice cube.

Just put an ice cube on top of it? Lol I will try the powerhead

I would not get rid of the anemone - if you do - take the whole rock its on - and bring it back - based on what you've said - I would stay the course (since there is incomplete information) - thats just MO. Of course - removing anemones - and rehoming them also comes with risks - so changing again in such a short time could also kill the anemone.

Awww nooo I dont want it to die. I am so stressed out now, I don’t want it eating my fish, and the whole point was for the clownfish to dive on it lol which apparently it will be impossible.

 

[Eve]

I agree..... it looks like it's doing fine. I would get 'good' water, and be prepared to do a lot more water-changes if necessary, and monitor your levels to get your ammonia under control, but I would just keep it and keep an eye on it.

What lights are you using? (sorry if mentioned previously)

My tank is a biocube oceanic? It comes with the lights specifically for corals. As per what they told me lol

 

[Michael Biando]

Nice tank
Love the hawk fish

 

[Eve]

Nice tank
Love the hawk fish

Thank you!!! Lol still brand new

 

[MnFish1]

Thank you!!! Lol still brand new

The point is there is a risk of continuing to mess with it - and there is a risk to just letting it be. Get the bacteria - and let it be - dont add any more livestock - do water changes matched to temp etc etc - and see what happens. (IMHO)

 

[Dolelo96]

Welcome to the reef! Everyone here wants to help. We’re a great group of folks. A few things....

Not everyone agrees on every method but there are some things that never change...
1. Your tank will cycle. Some do it with fish, some without. Back in the day, we dropped a damsel into a new tank to get it going. Now, since we have bacteria in a bottle, it’s not necessary to add fish.
2. You know your tank has cycled when ammonia and nitrite are 0 and nitrates are around 5-10 (ideally). If your nitrates stay higher than that, you will have trouble with....
3. The new tank uglies. Every tank, once cycled, will have Cyanobacteria, diatoms, and/or green hair algae. Or all three. How much you feed and how many critters you have (and subsequently, how high your nitrates are) will determine how bad it is. Everyone goes through it. When you get there, we’ll be here.
4. Top off systems are not necessary, but if you get one, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it. If you don’t have a RO/DI unit you can probably buy water from the LFS. I had a tank for two years with no RO unit. I bought my water.
5. Overstocking a new tank is one of the things that can greatly contribute to a lot of different problems down the road. Aim for 1” of full grown fish for each 3-5 gallons of water. Your two clowns plus the hawk, once full grown, will account for about 9 inches of fish (3” each). With just those, you’re at the three gallon limit. If you add more, you’ll need to do bigger and more frequent water changes. You may also find at some point that you want a skimmer. It will really help with filtration and waste removal.
6. Quarantine tanks are great but not necessary to keep all the time. You can pick up 5 gallon tanks very cheaply if you need it. If your fish get sick, we’ll help you.
6. As tempting as it may be, try to resist the urge to buy anemones or corals for at least nine months. Both of those require well established systems and advanced lighting.
7. Advanced lighting is expensive.

Lordy be, there is so much! Go to Bulk Reef Supply website and check out their 52 weeks of reefing video series. It great!

Btw.... condy anemones are not natural hosts for any clown fish species I know of. If you hope to see your clowns dive into an anemone, you’ll want a different anemone. Condy anemones are very aggressive. I had a very large one in a 29 gallon tank that ate his 3” damsel companion. I sold the anemone after that.

Please ask all the questions you want.

This has to be one of the best responses I’ve seen for someone new to the hobby. I think sometimes “newbies” get overwhelmed with all the info coming at them, especially after a tank has been set up with possibly “misleading” info from the lfs.
+1 on Bulk Reef Supply 52 weeks of Reefing series. The only thing I will add is try not to stress too much. Your in the right place to get the info you need!

 

[Dom]

I agree that the advice above is 'common wisdom'. I however followed none of it over the course of setting up numerous reef tanks. 2 Clownfish - and what looks like a relatively hardy anemone are likely going to do fine - especially with added bacteria (and I would add that Fritz Turbo (the one that has to be kept cool) would be better than stability based on studies done by @Dr. Reef . I wouldn't add anything more - and the hawkfish might be pushing it - but I dont think anything recommended here was 'malpractice'.

Anemones often live in tidal pools - or other places that are hardly 'stable'. Again - I know its all the conventional wisdom - but (IMHO) people that wait weeks for rock to cycle in a bucket or their tanks to cycle are 'wasting time'. Dont want to get into a debate about any of these things - they just represent my experience and my opinion - im not endorsing or suggesting anyone else do anything different. But - with this tank and how it looks - I would also not return everything in a panic. After all the NITRATE levels are already 50 (if thats an accurate value) so there has to be some 'cycle' already happening (again though without a nitrite level - its unclear whether this is a 'false positively high'

To Expand: I'm not saying that the method doesn't work. I am saying that an inexperienced person will have a more difficult time with what I view as an advanced method. Not to mention the valuable lessons about the Nitrogen Cycle lost when using bottled solutions.

I think bringing the fish back is the thing to do. These fish are in an environment that has elevated ammonia levels. Prolonged exposure to elevated ammonia will lead to gill burn which impairs the fish's ability to remove oxygen from the water. As the damage becomes worse, adequate oxygenation becomes increasingly difficult and will eventually lead to suffocation.

 

[BestMomEver]

The only thing I would correct in this - is that - some of the 'bacteria in a bottle' recommends adding fish immediately (as the ammonia source) - as compared to Dr. Tims (who recommends adding ammonia for a certain time).

If she is feeding lightly (and they will do fine with light feedings) - it should be no problem at all. Everyone seems to be recommending something on - partial information (an API ammonia and no nitrite - and a high nitrate - which may or may not be a false positive.

But - I have so say as usual - you did a great summary @BestMomEver You may need to change your handle to 'bestaquaristever' - unless @Paul B has that one already copyrighted: Yes Paul that was a joke

Awww shucks! You’re kind! Thanks..

 

[Shimis]

I'm new here also, and I have a biocube 32 so we have similar tank sizes. From one newbie to another: The local fish store wants your money, nothing more. The people on this site are here for the success of you and your tanks inhabitants. They will flood you with questions about your tank size, water parameters, other fish and corals in the tank, your experience level, etc. to ensure you are doing the right thing for your fish. The people here treat fish and corals as family members, which is different than any store you will visit. Getting advice here will save you time (even though LOTS of patience is required), money, and livestock. I will tell you there will always be differing advice. There are 2 schools of thought here: 1. Ols school, which is slow and mostly natural and 2. using some quick start chemicals like bio spira and dr Tim's that speed things up in the initial phase. I just read all the advice, do some online research and do what fits my style and budget. This is hands down the best site I have found for learning. This site also takes pride in trying not to demean new people who were led astray by their lfs, which happens regularly. Good luck with your tank, fish, and anemone.

 

[MnFish1]

To Expand: I'm not saying that the method doesn't work. I am saying that an inexperienced person will have a more difficult time with what I view as an advanced method. Not to mention the valuable lessons about the Nitrogen Cycle lost when using bottled solutions.

I think bringing the fish back is the thing to do. These fish are in an environment that has elevated ammonia levels. Prolonged exposure to elevated ammonia will lead to gill burn which impairs the fish's ability to remove oxygen from the water. As the damage becomes worse, adequate oxygenation becomes increasingly difficult and will eventually lead to suffocation.

You might be correct. Question 1 - is the ammonia level 'correct'? Question 2 - addition of Fritz Turbo has been shown (quite dramatically to reduce 4 ppm ammonia to zero within a day. The anemone to me is not suffering - it looks quite good.

IMHO - it has for some reason become a 'sin' to use bottled bacteria 'its not natural', etc. None of what we do is 'natural'. If indeed (as it seems as been done - at least with Fritz) you can supply nitrifying bacteria quickly and easily - what is the 'advantage' of waiting for it to naturally occur. Note - I'm not talking about throwing 10 tangs in a new 100 gallon aquarium. A couple clowns and a small anemone - if fed sparingly should have no problem (again IMHO).

Most people say the API tests are woefully inaccurate with regards to ammonia - but we're worried about an API test showing .25...? as a horrible event - with all due respect I dont see it. BUT in any case - my original advice stands - trying to get the anemone off the rock, etc - is going to be far more stressful than just taking the whole rock on which its attached to the LFS. IMHO - that (if anything) is the only thing 'at risk' in this tank.

How do you propose that people that set up reef tanks at aquarium shows in a day do it? Is it just 'the rock'? How do you suppose that LFS that set up frag tanks with 'no live rock at all' succeed?

 

[Deiblerj]

You might be correct. Question 1 - is the ammonia level 'correct'? Question 2 - addition of Fritz Turbo has been shown (quite dramatically to reduce 4 ppm ammonia to zero within a day. The anemone to me is not suffering - it looks quite good.

IMHO - it has for some reason become a 'sin' to use bottled bacteria 'its not natural', etc. None of what we do is 'natural'. If indeed (as it seems as been done - at least with Fritz) you can supply nitrifying bacteria quickly and easily - what is the 'advantage' of waiting for it to naturally occur. Note - I'm not talking about throwing 10 tangs in a new 100 gallon aquarium. A couple clowns and a small anemone - if fed sparingly should have no problem (again IMHO).

Most people say the API tests are woefully inaccurate with regards to ammonia - but we're worried about an API test showing .25...? as a horrible event - with all due respect I dont see it. BUT in any case - my original advice stands - trying to get the anemone off the rock, etc - is going to be far more stressful than just taking the whole rock on which its attached to the LFS. IMHO - that (if anything) is the only thing 'at risk' in this tank.

How do you propose that people that set up reef tanks at aquarium shows in a day do it? Is it just 'the rock'? How do you suppose that LFS that set up frag tanks with 'no live rock at all' succeed?

I agree with this...API is fine for starting out. Once you get into corals you’ll want a more accurate test kit. The nem looks fine but I would keep a close eye on it. Your tank is very new to have a nem. If it starts to look stressed I would consider taking it back. Keep an eye on your parameters and do frequent water changes until you’ve cycled.

As far as LFS and shows setting up tanks and having frag tanks, almost all LFS I’ve seen have a sump systems going into huge tubs of live rock so they do Use live rock as a filter method in their frag tanks. And for shows I’m sure they use live rock right out of cycled tanks so the short term they are set up they are fine.

 

[Hemmdog]

Good advice started above.
#1 get RODI water. I still buy mine, I run 210 gallons of water in all my systems and still lug jugs, things look great though.
#2 I started with a biocube 32 too, the “lights made for coral” is a relative term. They will keep coral alive; will it thrive, grow, have crazy bright beautiful colors, no. A good reefing light is the best single purchase you can make for a biocube. Take the top off, and mount it to the back, the top off is better for gas exchange anyways. I used a kessil 360we then a 360x on mine and it grew beautiful and bright coral. Worlds better than the stock light.
#3 once the cycle is done, if your nitrates are still above 10, I’d look into a little skimmer for the first chamber, not the biocube skimmer! Haha. I had great luck out of my aquaticlife 115 before I upgraded my biocube. Not only does it clean the water, but it oxygenates it as well so everything can breathe better, undergo photosynthesis, and get a pH boost.

 

[Eve]

I'm new here also, and I have a biocube 32 so we have similar tank sizes. From one newbie to another: The local fish store wants your money, nothing more. The people on this site are here for the success of you and your tanks inhabitants. They will flood you with questions about your tank size, water parameters, other fish and corals in the tank, your experience level, etc. to ensure you are doing the right thing for your fish. The people here treat fish and corals as family members, which is different than any store you will visit. Getting advice here will save you time (even though LOTS of patience is required), money, and livestock. I will tell you there will always be differing advice. There are 2 schools of thought here: 1. Ols school, which is slow and mostly natural and 2. using some quick start chemicals like bio spira and dr Tim's that speed things up in the initial phase. I just read all the advice, do some online research and do what fits my style and budget. This is hands down the best site I have found for learning. This site also takes pride in trying not to demean new people who were led astray by their lfs, which happens regularly. Good luck with your tank, fish, and anemone.

Thank you!!!

 

[Hemmdog]

Thank you!!!

Yep. It’s from the extra silicate in your sand, diatoms feed off that. It will go away in a month.

 

[Shimis]

Good advice started above.
#1 get RODI water. I still buy mine, I run 210 gallons of water in all my systems and still lug jugs, things look great though.
#2 I started with a biocube 32 too, the “lights made for coral” is a relative term. They will keep coral alive; will it thrive, grow, have crazy bright beautiful colors, no. A good reefing light is the best single purchase you can make for a biocube. Take the top off, and mount it to the back, the top off is better for gas exchange anyways. I used a kessil 360we then a 360x on mine and it grew beautiful and bright coral. Worlds better than the stock light.
#3 once the cycle is done, if your nitrates are still above 10, I’d look into a little skimmer for the first chamber, not the biocube skimmer! Haha. I had great luck out of my aquaticlife 115 before I upgraded my biocube. Not only does it clean the water, but it oxygenates it as well so everything can breathe better, undergo photosynthesis, and get a pH boost.

Was planning on getting Steve's led. Is that as good an option?

 

[Hemmdog]

Was planning on getting Steve's led. Is that as good an option?

Yea it’s pretty good. I would still go a normal reef light because it’s transferable to a bigger tank, resale value is higher, more features, and topless has better gas exchange like I said in the earlier post.

 

[Eve]

Okay guys, what is this??? I have been googling all morning! I highly doubt is a starfish? And it has six legs lol

 

[Hemmdog]

Okay guys, what is this??? I have been googling all morning! I highly doubt is a starfish? And it has six legs lol

Brittle star

 

[MnFish1]

A nice brittle star..... a good scavenger