Orphek OR Light Bars testing

TexasTodd

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Lately there's been some speculation on watts used and Orphek saying they're working on some improvements. I've been very impressed with their current bars and am looking forward to improvements like dimming etc. So, here is my start as I'm likely to add more. I'll add some pictures going forward but just wanted some data down to start. Others please post numbers if you measure but list how and what you measured with. To me these are such a high value!

My tank is a 150g 72" x 18" deep x 27"tall with about 1" sand bed.
I used an Apogee 210 and numbers are NOT corrected (just for @jda ;)). I figure since (per BRS) all units were non-correcting up until recently, not sure the 1.32x matters when comparing to what others have measured over the years. If you didn't see it, go check out BRS video where they found out the 500 series actually had a software issue and were not correcting for under water measuring.
I have two 120cm bars with 90 degree optics. One purchased in June, one in August 2018.
A Sky Blue is mounted at the back of my tank angled forward at 45 degrees and a Sky Blue with 10 of the most predominant color substituted with their 12k, mounted at the front at a 30 degree angle.
Both of these were purchased to help cut shading from my main fixture which is a Reef Breeders Photon V2 50.
I ramped the bars up, one at a time, one hour more every other day, to 8 hours, starting with 2 hours.
I lost one coral possibly to light towards the end so reduced my Photon by 20%. Photon is now running at max 36% on blues and UV, 12% on Green and Red, and 9% only on whites.
I did the above without a PAR meter which was pretty stupid! I had previously measured PAR with just the photon at 44%/12% SPS AB+ and was getting about 275 PAR mid tank 7" below water surface and about 60 on the front sand bed

Yesterday with Photon at 36/12/9% as above, and the two bars, I measured 475 PAR at the 7" below water mid tank! Remember this is with the Photon reduced by over 20% from when I got 275 PAR with it alone. So, bars seemed to easily be adding at least 200 PAR.

This morning before main fixture on I kicked on both bars. I did not test with only one bar, but did take near bar readings just above water. They seem about equal in PAR at same distance even though different spectrums.
The front bar SB/12k is 5" above water and 600 PAR at water, just above surface.
Rear bar, SB is 7" above water and 500 PAR at water, just above surface. At 5" air it was about 575PAR.

The best comparison is at the same 7" below water, mid tank, PAR with just two bars was 290 PAR!
Sand bed
Left side front sand bed about 6" back from glass getting 177 PAR with just two bars about 25" deep.

I took a bunch more readings with between 230-300 PAR over much of my rockwork at 10-12" below surface with only the two bars running.

I was very surprised at these numbers. They were about double what I would have guessed I'd see!

So, there has been some random readings and discussion about how many watts these bars use. I don't have a Kil-O-Watt, but might get one.
Here's the deal, I don't really care what the WATTS are, I care about PAR and quality of the light.
I have notice very good improvements in corals since adding these bars and reducing my main fixture. I'm sure some is reduced shading and more even coverage, but also feel some is light quality. However that is subjective.
I will say I'm looking at going 100% OR light bars with improvements I've seen so far.

Thanks,
Todd
 
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I've been thinking about running two of their daylights with the 120 lenses over a 40 breeder. Curious how their 18K spectrum looks as a standalone. Wish I could dim them.
 
I just rec'd 3xdaylight 18k ...48" nice lights ! see their web page for a pic of a tank lit by the 18k alone ...
 
CD, the 90 degree should cover front to back pretty well if you play with height. The spread was better than I'd think. However, with the high par numbers, I do wonder what PAR we'd see from 120 degree in a shallower tank.
 

Hey Peder, thanks for the bump / kick in the pants :).

Busy week, work, kids, lets just say it wasn't Amazon's fault.

Just used the Kill A Watt. By the way, this was like $30 on Amazon with free shipping I don't know exactly because it was so cheap I didn't really study it. It' a Kill A Watt brand model P3.

BOY am I glad I got this. I'm going to hit a couple of other threads because others either had bad testers, or other issues. Some posted some really low results on these bars.

Remember, I have two bars, I purchased one in June and one in August. Both are 48" (120cm) one a semi custom Sky Blue and the other standard Sky Blue. So, they both have 36 LEDs at 3 watts each LED. Should pull 108w.

Semi custom Sky blue is registering 122.1-122.7! If you use one of the Kill A Watt, they bounce around a little on the number after the decimal point. I'm sure an electrical engineer could tell us why.
Full Sky Blue was pulling 121.9-122.2!

Not bad in my book!
 
Quick question: were you compensated (or will be compensated) in any way for posting a review? Since you mentioned being subjective
 
Hi Bos, I'm not sure where they are headquartered, the bars ship straight from China.

TheHarold, no, maybe the incorrect word. I meant "Opinion" since it's my own view that the corals seem to be doing and looking better....can't really test it like you can PAR.
 
Hi Bos, I'm not sure where they are headquartered, the bars ship straight from China.

TheHarold, no, maybe the incorrect word. I meant "Opinion" since it's my own view that the corals seem to be doing and looking better....can't really test it like you can PAR.

Oh, thanks. I got what you meant with subjective, I just asked about being compensated because the feedback I have heard has varied a bit, including the (mentioned) wattage of the fixtures that should really be the same across units.
 
Also, made a mistake on the above about Watts. I was using the wrong button! I believe the above was the setting showing 120 coming from the wall.
They are running between 64-68 Watt range each. Which seems great for the PAR they put out. I haven't tested other bars or fixtures on the Watts. I know someone posted that "around 70w pulled is about right" meaning what it should be made to pull, and, someone else said another brand pulls the full wattage rating from the wall. To me, if it's lower Watts and I'm getting the PAR it's better. I don't understand electrical engineering.
 
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They are running between 64-68 Watt range each. Which seems great for the PAR they put out. I haven't tested other bars or fixtures on the Watts. I know someone posted that "around 70w pulled is about right" meaning what it should be made to pull, and, someone else said another brand pulls the full wattage rating from the wall. To me, if it's lower Watts and I'm getting the PAR it's better. I don't understand electrical engineering.

It's pretty simple.. watts = volts x amps..
Problem is the diodes should be listed like "3 Watt class" since that is more realistic, but doesn't sell well does it?

If the V(f) at 1Amp is 3V it's 3 Watts (per diode).
Doesn't really mean a THING (in a general sense) about photon (PAR) output. Separate metric.. like 100 Lumens /Watt, which will give you an idea of efficiency.
A diode run at 1W w/ an efficiency of 150Lumens/watt is equal to a 3W diode w/ an efficiency of 50Lumens/Watt.
sorry just using lumen as a convenience here.. Could be PAR ect per Watt.
if it's lower Watts and I'm getting the PAR it's better.
The Orphek "looks" to be running the diodes at an effective 2W output (or close) which is pretty normal for this "type" of diode.
One needs to balance watts (heat) vs longevity/reliance, thus few are run "full" wattage...especially fanless..

Switch the driver to output greater than 550mA and your wattage will increase..but so will your heating and more than likely decrease your "mean time between failure" of the diodes..

to repeat this a bit.. wattage has little to do w/ output with out knowing diode efficiency..or the advantage of "direction-ality" for that matter..

It's sad that few list "real" watts, and even that isn't always perfect either..constant voltage arrays may have "real" watts but some of this is from the terminating resistors and thus NOT generated by the diodes themselves..
so again, sort of misleading.
One would really need to know the exact voltage and amp draw AT the diodes to get "real" numbers..

bottom line, it's only the # of photons that count and the reason "PAR" is really the only thing that counts, unless you want to save a few pennies (or more) on electricity..
 
My two OR 120 sky blue punch easily through my 2x250w MH, i do not Care how many or few watts it uses, it does its job!
 
Just went and saw the lights, beautifully made.
Two V4 is pretty steep for 48inch tank but guarantees I can grow anything, that's similar pricing as Giesemann Auroras, ATI powermodules and Radion xr30s
 
Thanks Oreo, that was a great explanation!
I think it's also likely that most companies making bars advertise total number of LEDs x LED Watt as rating which is industry more than one manufacturer. If one breaks away then people think it's not as powerful, which isn't really the case. It sounds like full fixtures WITH fans are different.

Peder, yes, they are very powerful light output. The first bar I took into a local store that runs all Radions. Now, spectrum and % run at I need to find out, but the shop manager's comment when we plugged the bar in and aimed over a tank was "Holy crap, that thing just drowned out the Radion!".

Oreo, I'll post the true up to date specs that Orphek posted yesterday. Very good of them to do this and I'd like to see others post more PAR numbers here. I'll get our club's meter back and take some more. I need to anyway as I've lowered my fixture output quite a bit and need to re-check. I'm down to 28%/7% AB+ max on main fixture now.
 
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