Orphek OR Light Bars testing

[TexasTodd]

Electrical Parameter

OR120: Input : Voltage:100V-240V AC .

Output : Voltage :36V-65V DC . Current :1A

Power Consumption: 65W+/_5%.

Power Factor >95%

Frequency: 50 to 60Hz.

OR90: Input : Voltage:100V-240V AC .

Output : Voltage :56V-105V DC . Current :500mA

Power Consumption: 45W+/_5%.

Power Factor >95%

Frequency: 50 to 60Hz.

OR60: Input : Voltage:100V-240V AC .

Output : Voltage :36V-65V DC . Current :500mA

Power Consumption: 35W+/_5%.

Power Factor >95%

Frequency: 50 to 60Hz.

From main thread on these bars. Kuddos to Orphek for stepping up and showing specs. I did ask them a while back and they said they try to balance output along with longevity for LEDs. As said above, I was amazed when I put a PAR meter to these.

 

[TexasTodd]

Also, BOS, we're talking specifically about their OR Light Bars here. The FIXTURE Atlantic is very nice indeed, but up there in cost with the other fixtures you mentioned. The bars can be added to the Atlantic (or other fixtures) to cut shading. Or one could run just multiple Bars, at many different angles, to get lots of light, coverage, and maximum reduction of shading. I'm running two Bars with a Reef Breeders main fixture but may go to only bars (adding more than the two I have) especially after seeing the PAR output I measured.

 

[TheHarold]

It's pretty simple.. watts = volts x amps..
Problem is the diodes should be listed like "3 Watt class" since that is more realistic, but doesn't sell well does it?

If the V(f) at 1Amp is 3V it's 3 Watts (per diode).
Doesn't really mean a THING (in a general sense) about photon (PAR) output. Separate metric.. like 100 Lumens /Watt, which will give you an idea of efficiency.
A diode run at 1W w/ an efficiency of 150Lumens/watt is equal to a 3W diode w/ an efficiency of 50Lumens/Watt.
sorry just using lumen as a convenience here.. Could be PAR ect per Watt.

The Orphek "looks" to be running the diodes at an effective 2W output (or close) which is pretty normal for this "type" of diode.
One needs to balance watts (heat) vs longevity/reliance, thus few are run "full" wattage...especially fanless..

Switch the driver to output greater than 550mA and your wattage will increase..but so will your heating and more than likely decrease your "mean time between failure" of the diodes..

to repeat this a bit.. wattage has little to do w/ output with out knowing diode efficiency..or the advantage of "direction-ality" for that matter..

It's sad that few list "real" watts, and even that isn't always perfect either..constant voltage arrays may have "real" watts but some of this is from the terminating resistors and thus NOT generated by the diodes themselves..
so again, sort of misleading.
One would really need to know the exact voltage and amp draw AT the diodes to get "real" numbers..

bottom line, it's only the # of photons that count and the reason "PAR" is really the only thing that counts, unless you want to save a few pennies (or more) on electricity..

I agree with everything you have said, but I draw a different conclusion. Because these inexpensive foreign fixtures are using super inexpensive LEDs, their diode efficiency is mediocre compared to using the newest tech from osram etc. Therefor using real wattage as a measure of output is still very useful as a method of comparison between different fixtures in similar price ranges.

Their fixture does seem nice!

 

[TexasTodd]

I hope to update this soon. I've ordered a new canopy that is 12" taller and a full lift up so I can adjust height and also add more on the front and back vertical areas. My plan is to raise what I have then switch to all Orphek OR bars. Right now my main fixture is only 7" off the water which just doesn't work well for LED IMO.

 

[savoyard]

I hope to update this soon. I've ordered a new canopy that is 12" taller and a full lift up so I can adjust height and also add more on the front and back vertical areas. My plan is to raise what I have then switch to all Orphek OR bars. Right now my main fixture is only 7" off the water which just doesn't work well for LED IMO.

How many bars/combination will you put in this new canopy?

 

[Thingsibuild]

I cant believe I just found these lights. Thanks for putting up some par numbers.

 

[TexasTodd]

Sorry for the LONG delay. I decided to wait for their 150cm before going all bars. Since then a cracked center brace on my 150g (luckily no tank fracture!) led to wood clamps and a scramble to pick up a used 210g full system. It had 1x XR30G3 pro and 2x XR30G4 non-pro. I sold the ReefBreeders and put my OR bars in the closet and picked up an Aqutic Life Hybrid plus the Radions. Good growth but SPS colors are not as good. I know there's more to coral color than light. I've been waiting and plan to try all OR gen3 150cm (60") bars. I'll update again once some come in.