Orphek Or3 Blue+ stopped working

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Anyone else have their Or3 150 stop lighting? If so what caused it?
There's been some sporadic diode issues. Reach out to Orphek for remedy and have sales receipt handy as you will need it and also take pics of both ends of fixtures
 
+1. One of the 3 OR3 150cms Bars that i have stopped working after 2 years as well. And it is not the driver / power supply (i swapped to check) so it is the actual bar itself... They are 30 inches above the water line, so no splashes not even humidity as they are in a well ventilated space...

And with their 1 year warranty (what a joke) i just have to eat it...

280$ for 2 years of service... :angry-face:
 
I had one quit working as well. Maybe they need better ventilation for over heating or something idk. The customer service guy was very helpful though and replaced it no charge ( was under 1 year warranty ). He also mentioned that he could repair the old one if I sent it back for like around 40$ if I remember correctly. I told him I don’t need to fix the broken one now but might later. Well I’m just about to reach out to him to see if that offer still stands so that I have a backup.
 
Just had another go out. This one was a replacement received 3 months ago.

20231112_112206.jpg
 
Inside this bar are diodes, which on Aliexpress cost $ 7-10 for 100 pieces. For the price at which they sell these bars, they can give a lifetime warranty for the replacement of the device.
 
Not exactly the answer one wants....

"You can't always get what you want, but ......"
 
Inside this bar are diodes, which on Aliexpress cost $ 7-10 for 100 pieces. For the price at which they sell these bars, they can give a lifetime warranty for the replacement of the device.

Yeah, i just saw this in OREO'S message... its a pretty margin profit they've got.


Thanks.............have 2 that quit after 2 years of ownership.
The 3 month replacement died on you?

Not exactly the answer one wants....

"You can't always get what you want, but ......"

Really? i thought at least they would use high quality Cree Leds.. I didnt know they used Epistar (at least in the OR2)
 
Yes it did......the worst part is, wait for it :anxious-face-with-sweat::anxious-face-with-sweat::anxious-face-with-sweat:..............the 3 month replacement they sent was already out of warranty.
 
Noooo... How come? a replacement needs to have the same ammount of warranty as the original product no? At least here in Europe it is like that...

Well, first and last time I buy directly from a manufacturer with this crappy warranty policy (and questionable product quality too).. Next lights are gonna be bought locally, we got a 3 year warranty period by law here in spain now, so no mor international buys... Lesson learned!
 
Oh man. This stinks to see cuz i just bought one on black friday from brs. Uggg
 
I was always surprised how they constructed a light bar with no active cooling - clearly that's way to many diodes to handle for this size of fixture - and I am not at al surprised that LEDs burn out after about a year or two...

For comparison, I have a DIY light - that has 120w worth of LEDs (57x 3w LEDs. mostly blue/royal blue/violet). The light has 2x 80mm PWM fans that are running on average at 80% - that allows to keep the heatsink temperature at around 35 degrees Celsius (human body temperature).

If I were to run the fans at 50% - the heatsink temperature would rise to 60 degrees Celsius, can't even imagine what would happen if I switch off fans..
 
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Yeah, the whole body is supposed to act as a heatskin.. but clearly is not working as intended.. that, or the actual internal components of the bar are utter crap. Because the driver is a meanwell which can't be faulted...
 
I was always surprised how they constructed a light bar with no active cooling - clearly that's way to many diodes to handle for this size of fixture - and I am not at al surprised that LEDs burn out after about a year or two...

For comparison, I have a DIY light - that has 120w worth of LEDs (57x 3w LEDs. mostly blue/royal blue/violet). The light has 2x 80mm PWM fans that are running on average at 80% - that allows to keep the heatsink temperature at around 35 degrees Celsius (human body temperature).

If I were to run the fans at 50% - the heatsink temperature would rise to 60 degrees Celsius, can't even imagine what would happen if I switch off fans..
Yeah and forgot to mention, when heatsink temperature is 35, junction temperature is probably 50... For LEDs what matters is junction temperature, which is always significantly higher than heatsink temperature.
 

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