t5Nitro
Valuable Member
Just adding to the thread, my blue plus 150 OR3 bar stopped working today. Purchased new march 2022. Looks to be about the timeline everyone is getting from them. Probably not the most reliable units in terms of longevity.
Orphek Or3 Blue+ stopped working
- Thread starter xabo
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Rabidsquirrel
Community Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2016
- Messages
- 50
- Reaction score
- 44
Fairly simple. Un-solder the bad diodes. You can find them with a multimeter. From there you can either just use a piece of wire or you can replace them with a new diode from here.
Yep, they're on my do not buy list now. It's a shame, I like the packaging, and how slim the bar is. But I only got 13 months out of one of my lights.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
oreo54
5000 Club Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2017
- Messages
- 5,970
- Reaction score
- 3,673
- What state or country do you live in
- Wisconsin
I wouldn't rule out the drivers going bad.
Unfortunately many are sort of "odd" electrical-wise and its not easy finding a substitute "exactly" like the original driver.
Since most are series/parallel strings usually only one branch fails open.
Driver for the 120..900mA is divided between 2 strands.. IF all the leds are out it is likely the driver.
Smaller models are all one strand so it doesn't apply.
As to individual leds yea just put a digital multimeter (pretty sure old analogs dont work) across the diode with the correct positive and negative. Led should glow dimly (maybe REALLY hard and not exactly safe to see w/ any true UV diodes) when set to either low ohms or diode function.
| 60W | DC 30-65V | 900mA |
For the 120 one could use the Meanwell LCM-60U with some "BUTS".
Original driver goes up to 65V @900mA. Meanwell is ether 2-72 @700mA (losing 200mA) or "possibly"
900mA at 2-56V.
The voltage will go to whatever is needed to get to the set point.
You would need to measure the voltage/current to determine IF it will run "normally" at 56V.
Good thing though is you add dimming..
Last edited:
SimbaAnto
Well-Known Member
Yeah it's hard to find. I tried one from Led supply but didn't work.I wouldn't rule out the drivers going bad.
Unfortunately many are sort of "odd" electrical-wise and its not easy finding a substitute "exactly" like the original driver.
Since most are series/parallel strings usually only one branch fails open.
Driver for the 120..900mA is divided between 2 strands.. IF all the leds are out it is likely the driver.
Smaller models are all one strand so it doesn't apply.
As to individual leds yea just put a digital multimeter (pretty sure old analogs dont work) across the diode with the correct positive and negative. Led should glow dimly (maybe REALLY hard and not exactly safe to see w/ any true UV diodes) when set to either low ohms or diode function.
60W DC 30-65V 900mA
oreo54
5000 Club Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2017
- Messages
- 5,970
- Reaction score
- 3,673
- What state or country do you live in
- Wisconsin
Hmm which one?
120 is 36 leds right?
This will be 2 strands of 18.
Roughly 18 x3.6(guesstimation of average) =64.8V and 450mA per side.
So looks like the 900mA switch wouldn't work.
Rabidsquirrel
Community Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2016
- Messages
- 50
- Reaction score
- 44
HLG-120H-C1050A should do it if I'm reading the cut sheet right. The A models let you adjust the current.
SimbaAnto
Well-Known Member
Rabidsquirrel
Community Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2016
- Messages
- 50
- Reaction score
- 44
Lost my other Orphek light bar at 18 months. Don't really care enough to figure out why right now, all I know is I won't buy another one of their products again.
I've got some LED diodes epoxied to an aluminum heat sink going on 8 years now without a failure of the diodes or the drivers. No excuse for a professional product not to last a decent amount of time.
I've got some LED diodes epoxied to an aluminum heat sink going on 8 years now without a failure of the diodes or the drivers. No excuse for a professional product not to last a decent amount of time.
