melypr1985
totally addicted
He could try that, but it's very labor intensive and the fast life cycle of velvet makes it risky IMO. If he has CP coming, that would be the best option in the case I think. Especially if it's not China CP.
Outbreak of parasite, losing fish, please help
- Thread starter reefknight
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He could try that, but it's very labor intensive and the fast life cycle of velvet makes it risky IMO. If he has CP coming, that would be the best option in the case I think. Especially if it's not China CP.
I think it's possible the OP has both ich and velvet in play here. Deadly combination. 
@reefknight Where is your CP coming from? I hope from a pharmacy.
@reefknight Where is your CP coming from? I hope from a pharmacy.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
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X2 looks like velvet to me and certainly sounds like itIn your picture the dots are pretty small, so I'm going to lean toward velvet as well. Especially with the time line stemming from the temp increase. Your already doing what you need to do for your fish. When the CP (by the way where did you order it from? Not all CP is reliable) gets there you can use that on the leopards if your afraid to use copper on them. Get the tank fallow as soon as you can and let it run the full 76 days just to be safe. Sorry for your troubles
Edit to add: I would like to know when the last time you added anything wet to the tank was.
OP
OP
reefknight
Well-Known Member
Thank you to all for your suggestions and support. This morning the Hooded succumbed to this and I fear the Angulatus and male Darwin are not far behind. Still no luck in trapping either of the leopards. I have a Seachem copper test kit arriving today via Amazon. The local stores only sell API, so I wasn't even about to attempt to measure the level of Cu with one. Monitoring NH4 daily as well. I have a badge arriving with the test kit. I'm continuing to dose Stability to stabilize the filter. I canister has its original foam inserts, two baskets of Matrix (bio, not carbon) and blue bonded filter pads in the third. I set this up to colonize as a biological filter as quickly as possible.
@miyags - Every water change I do I am slowly replacing it saltwater with RO/DI to reduce the salinity. Thank you.
@melypr1985 & @Humblefish - Unfortunately the CP is was purchased from fleabay, but I had enough sense to check the source of the drug. I had inquired about an MSDS sheet for it. The manufacturer is Spectrum Laboratory Products, Inc. from Gardena, CA. This business sells many different products for the reef hobbyist as well. This is why I have had a hard time diagnosing this. It presented really odd at first, really odd shaped oval, near the gills on the foxface and the Fowler's. That's why I made the assumption of flukes and treated Prazi, losing precious time. Now, I agree there are signs of what could be both Crypto and Velvet. In either case its here and it has to be treated, is what I keep telling myself.
The Sunburst's were the only things that were added recently to the DT. Some plumbing work was done as I added a Vectra return pump externally and added a chaeto box refugium. (Two weeks before the issue began, a few days before the anthias were added) The chaeto was obtained from a close friend and we share all frags with each other. The second problem is that he too obtained Sunburst's from the same source as I. He has began a medicated food feeding protocol and has not seen any signs of disease. He is worried at this time as well that he might have this lying dormant in his DT.
@miyags - Every water change I do I am slowly replacing it saltwater with RO/DI to reduce the salinity. Thank you.
@melypr1985 & @Humblefish - Unfortunately the CP is was purchased from fleabay, but I had enough sense to check the source of the drug. I had inquired about an MSDS sheet for it. The manufacturer is Spectrum Laboratory Products, Inc. from Gardena, CA. This business sells many different products for the reef hobbyist as well. This is why I have had a hard time diagnosing this. It presented really odd at first, really odd shaped oval, near the gills on the foxface and the Fowler's. That's why I made the assumption of flukes and treated Prazi, losing precious time. Now, I agree there are signs of what could be both Crypto and Velvet. In either case its here and it has to be treated, is what I keep telling myself.
The Sunburst's were the only things that were added recently to the DT. Some plumbing work was done as I added a Vectra return pump externally and added a chaeto box refugium. (Two weeks before the issue began, a few days before the anthias were added) The chaeto was obtained from a close friend and we share all frags with each other. The second problem is that he too obtained Sunburst's from the same source as I. He has began a medicated food feeding protocol and has not seen any signs of disease. He is worried at this time as well that he might have this lying dormant in his DT.
@reefknight I think I would roll the dice on that CP (at least to start), and also perform a FW dip & chemical bath as outlined here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437
NeuroticAquatics
Valuable Member
I would roll the dice too. I used CP from eBay for my recent nightmare and I think it did the trick. The fish that ended up dying was probably more due to me waiting to treat. My Tusk just died, but it had been acting strange for weeks. My Purple Tang looks to be in great shape and I plan to add back into my fallow DT on the 28th. You symptoms seem very similar to mine...started with Ich and turned into something looking like Velvet or Brook.
OP
OP
reefknight
Well-Known Member
It should here today. The only two left in the hospital tank are the foxface and the diamond goby. I still have not been able to capture the two leopards from the DT. Tested the copper level last evening, 0.2. So, I'm adjusting the level as per directions. Ammonia isn't showing on the NH4 badge, nor Salifert kit. Continuing the Stability treatment as well.
I still have not been able to capture the two leopards from the DT. Tested the copper level last evening, 0.2. So, I'm adjusting the level as per directions. Ammonia isn't showing on the NH4 badge, nor Salifert kit. Continuing the Stability treatment as well.
OP
OP
reefknight
Well-Known Member
Well, I believe that I have good and bad news at this point. The good news is that I have not lost anymore fish at this time. The foxface and goby are doing well in the hospital tank and since they were responding well to the Cu treatment, I left that treatment alone. I see no more visible parasites on either of them and they are not attempting to dash against any surface in that tank. The bad news is that the two leopards are still in the DT. I have also noticed within the past two days that the Black leopards tail fin is almost gone up to the body, the pectoral and ventral fins are also deteriorating. I am guessing that a secondary bacterial infection has been set off.
Would you still transfer to the hospital tank that has the other two fish that are healing with Cu treatment? Which would be less stressful on the leopards Cu or CP? Would you drip acclimate them from the water that they are currently in to the hospital tank? It seemed to me that my other wrasses health took a turn for the worse after I would adjust the Cu level.
My thought on treating the bacterial infection is the one recommended by @Humblefish , Kanaplex/ Metroplex/ Furan-2. At this point I have all of the meds except Furan-2. Seems that no store in my area carries it.
Would you still transfer to the hospital tank that has the other two fish that are healing with Cu treatment? Which would be less stressful on the leopards Cu or CP? Would you drip acclimate them from the water that they are currently in to the hospital tank? It seemed to me that my other wrasses health took a turn for the worse after I would adjust the Cu level.
My thought on treating the bacterial infection is the one recommended by @Humblefish , Kanaplex/ Metroplex/ Furan-2. At this point I have all of the meds except Furan-2. Seems that no store in my area carries it.
melypr1985
totally addicted
I would get them out ASAP and start treatment with what you have. The furan 2 is a good med and will be better than nothing. The black leopard may be past saving, but I would still try. If you have another spare tank, that's where I would put them until the infection is cleared up then start TTM in buckets with the leopards.
OP
OP
reefknight
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, I do not have another tank that I can set up. If I had another tank or even room for another currently that would help. I do not have the Furan-2, that is the one med that I am missing from the broad spectrum treatment that Humblefish outlines. You would think that Pet Smart would carry it.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Unfortunately, I do not have another tank that I can set up. If I had another tank or even room for another currently that would help. I do not have the Furan-2, that is the one med that I am missing from the broad spectrum treatment that Humblefish outlines. You would think that Pet Smart would carry it.
Ahh I missread your post. The kanaplex would work well too. It's better than nothing. Any container that holds water would work- besides metal ones that is. If he's still eating you can feed him the kanaplex using Seachem's Focus to bind it to the food. You can do that right in the display, but he has to be willing to eat for that to help at all. I really dont think it will be enough for the one wrasse but it may help the other.
I would treat the Leopard Wrasses separately from the other two fish, to avoid needlessly exposing them to antibiotics. And to avoid introducing "fresh parasites" into their QT. Things are going well for the other two, so don't rock their boat. 
I would treat the Leopard Wrasses with chelated copper (ex. Coppersafe or Copper Power), as they seem to do better in that than Cupramine. I've never tried CP on a Macropharyngodon genus wrasse before, so I cannot say if they would suffer in it like the Pseudocheilinus genus wrasses I have tried do. TTM is not a good option here because the possibility of velvet exists.
I would treat the Leopard Wrasses with chelated copper (ex. Coppersafe or Copper Power), as they seem to do better in that than Cupramine. I've never tried CP on a Macropharyngodon genus wrasse before, so I cannot say if they would suffer in it like the Pseudocheilinus genus wrasses I have tried do. TTM is not a good option here because the possibility of velvet exists.
melypr1985
totally addicted
