What is everyone's opinion on an overflow to sump or drilled out tank to sump? Getting mixed opinions on overflow and not being a safe or good idea. Plus when I do this I'm gonna have to tear down my entire tank. I don't want to do that!
Overflow vs. standard sump
- Thread starter Erick Merfeld
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I had the same fear. My overflow is fine. I went with the eshopps style.
Eshopps and Lifereef HOB overflow boxes are extremely reliable. Not a fan of the CPR Aquatics boxes though due to needing an additional Aqualifter pump which is another potential failure point.
The design is such that if power goes off, the siphon or U tube stays full and you never break the siphon. There are thousands of both in use with a great track record.
Like most everyone, given a choice from the beginning I would choose an internal, drilled overflow but for an add on for an existing system they don't come any better.
Like most everyone, given a choice from the beginning I would choose an internal, drilled overflow but for an add on for an existing system they don't come any better.
Yup. What he said.
Use the basic formula to calculate your desired turnover and get the right size pump and overflow.
Use the basic formula to calculate your desired turnover and get the right size pump and overflow.
nervousmonkey
LPS Lover, SPS Enabler
+1
rsh2670
New Member
Where on here is that formula?
Erick Merfeld
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Use basic formula to calculate? I have a 55 gallon tank. I am new to all of this so I am still learning. Right now I have a canister pump. I can not get my nitrate level below 20ppm. People are saying that is because of the canister filter. It is known to be a nitrate factory. Do you guys agree?
Why would you guys rather have a drilled tank? I would rather have that too just from all of the reading and research that I have done.
Also been looking into the new synergy overflow. With that I would have to drill holes towards that top of my tank and might not have to completely drain my tank and just drill carefully and cover the water somehow. Maybe? Like I said I am still new to this whole thing but I am trying to learn new things to better my water chemistry so that my tank can grow and not just stay where it has been for months!
Why would you guys rather have a drilled tank? I would rather have that too just from all of the reading and research that I have done.
Also been looking into the new synergy overflow. With that I would have to drill holes towards that top of my tank and might not have to completely drain my tank and just drill carefully and cover the water somehow. Maybe? Like I said I am still new to this whole thing but I am trying to learn new things to better my water chemistry so that my tank can grow and not just stay where it has been for months!
It isn't _because_ the canister filter is there. Every square inch of the tank and everything in it theoretically oxidizes nitrogen.
Drilled is better. You can worry a little less. I would rather have it because it is definitely more reliable and does not ever need to be restarted. But I have both running right now and can say that both have problems, both have positives, and no tank is immune to floods.
If you really want a drilled tank and it is only a few months old, I would take everything out, drill it and set it back up. If it was me I would probably put in a hang on and plan for the next upgrade if you get my drift
Erick Merfeld
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Thanks! Well I've had this tank up for over a year now. I have also thought about tearing it down and trading it for a smaller complete system to "start on". This tank tanks up a lot of room in my house. So if I got a small system I would be able to build a cabinet to keep everything in and a sump underneath the tank. Then upgrade to a bigger tank down the road when I move within the next 4 or 5 years.
How much turnover do you need in a reef tank. Basic question to determine what pump and overflow. Also what size holes you'll want to drill.
Surprised no one chimed in to help. Was hoping it would have been googled at least.
Reccomend turnover is 10x through the sump. Total gal x10 = gph
You should consider a hob refugium. The results are almost (in this hobby) instant. Two weeks and water and glass was clearer. That's just Chato.
Surprised no one chimed in to help. Was hoping it would have been googled at least.
Reccomend turnover is 10x through the sump. Total gal x10 = gph
You should consider a hob refugium. The results are almost (in this hobby) instant. Two weeks and water and glass was clearer. That's just Chato.
Next question. Are you having a problem in your tank that makes you want to reduce the nitrates?
Or is just cuz "people say". Just curious.
Or is just cuz "people say". Just curious.
Erick Merfeld
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I am having problems. Fish are not swimming around and enjoying the tank. They sit in a few spots in the tank and thats it. They do not swim around and doesnt look like they are happy and enjoying themselves. I have also had an issue with algae blooms. Talked with a few different people and changed the way I am using my LEDs and that has helped the algae problems so far anyways. Been just a few days with the new lighting schedules.
Plus I know that high nitrates are not good for the tank and anything that is living in it too. Correct?
Plus I know that high nitrates are not good for the tank and anything that is living in it too. Correct?
Yes and yes. Nitrate and excess nutrient reduction. Most common problem with tanks is nutrient build up. Mostly dirty sand bed.
It's really a personal choice as what rout to go and your soloution. Budget being the biggest. And work being second.
Not being familiar with your fish or rock work I don't know what to advise. A tank transfer is easy so is a clean out if the rock isn't complicated.
As far as the fish it's possible they're just not that healthy from living in the high nutrient or the need something to do. Chase pods. Play in the flow. Guard territory.
I feel worse on a junk food diet. Do fish?
And you can safely deep clean a tank without repercussion
And you can safely deep clean a tank without repercussion
