Painting stands 101: Need tips for a perfect finish

glb · Mar 31, 2016

I found this on the Benjamin Moore's site. It recommends several different paints, one for kitchens that's good with humidity. I think I'm going to use it.
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-contractors/yellowing-of-alkyd-paints

bxmpwr · Mar 31, 2016

This is expensive but if I were to paint mine this is what I would use or something like it. It's a 2 part epoxy paint.

https://www.grainger.com/product/RU...inger%2F7AJ71_AS01%3F%24smthumb%24&s_pp=false

glb · Mar 31, 2016

bxmpwr said:
This is expensive but if I were to paint mine this is what I would use or something like it. It's a 2 part epoxy paint.

https://www.grainger.com/product/RUST-OLEUM-Semi-Gloss-Epoxy-Activator-WP138349/_/N-j75?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/7AJ71_AS01?$smthumb$#nav=/product/RUST-OLEUM-Semi-Gloss-Epoxy-Activator-WP138349/_/N-j75Z1z13ly3Z1z13548Z1z03vld?R=7AK25&_=1459127159572&picUrl=%2F%2Fstatic.grainger.com%2Frp%2Fs%2Fis%2Fimage%2FGrainger%2F7AJ71_AS01%3F%24smthumb%24&s_pp=false

Boy you weren't kidding about expensive.

glb · Apr 1, 2016

Ok this question is sort of related. I'm going to paint the outside of the stand with a latex enamel paint. I was planning to use regular carpenter nails to attach the beadboard sides, which are very thin. If I cover them with wood putty then paint, will they rust through the paint? Do I need to use stainless nails (is there even such a thing?). I'm getting closer to the finish line so I don't want to make a mistake. Your thoughts?

glb · Apr 2, 2016

glb said:
Ok this question is sort of related. I'm going to paint the outside of the stand with a latex enamel paint. I was planning to use regular carpenter nails to attach the beadboard sides, which are very thin. If I cover them with wood putty then paint, will they rust through the paint? Do I need to use stainless nails (is there even such a thing?). I'm getting closer to the finish line so I don't want to make a mistake. Your thoughts?

Bump

glb · Apr 2, 2016

And yet another question. Kilz doesn't leave a very smooth finish on the inside of my stand. It it a good idea to put a clear glossy coat on top to make clean-up easier?

glb · Apr 3, 2016

Bump.

glb · Apr 4, 2016

Bump. Do I need to cover the kilz with a smoother finish on the inside of the stand to make cleanup easier? The kilz is rough so I bought a clear enamel to put over it. Has anyone else done this? Advice welcome!

donnievaz · Apr 5, 2016

glb said:
Bump. Do I need to cover the kilz with a smoother finish on the inside of the stand to make cleanup easier? The kilz is rough so I bought a clear enamel to put over it. Has anyone else done this? Advice welcome!

Killz is not meant to be a final coat. You definitely want to put something on top of it. I wouldn't use clear though. I'd use a gloss white enamel. The glossier it is, the easier it will be to wipe down.

glb · Apr 5, 2016

donnievaz said:
Killz is not meant to be a final coat. You definitely want to put something on top of it. I wouldn't use clear though. I'd use a gloss white enamel. The glossier it is, the easier it will be to wipe down.

Thanks!

donnievaz · Apr 6, 2016

I should also mention it would be a good idea to lightly sand the primer coat with an abrasive sanding pad to smooth it out before you do the color.

cromag27 · Apr 9, 2016

I've been building stand for over 11 years. I no longer use kilz. I will either use oil based stain or latex paint, depending on what the customer wants. latex paint can hold up against a certain amount of moisture after it has fully cured - about four weeks. I sand the wood with 220 and I'll also sand after the first coat. you'll likely get some wood fibers that will raise up from the moisture of the paint/stain. use a high quality brush (purdy, Wooten, etc). you can also cut your latex with floetrol, which helps with brush marks.