shyann009
Community Member
I’m new to the salt tank. and i just received these nuclear green pallies last week , they were doing very well. but today they are taking a turn for the worst. they are all deflated and sad. what to do?!?!
Pallies dying please help!!!
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tc3driver
Community Member
I'll get it started off...
What are your tank parameters, as that is always the first question. Just a heads up, "fine", or "Perfect" are not acceptable answers.
For anyone to help you will need (at least) the following numbers:
What are your tank parameters, as that is always the first question. Just a heads up, "fine", or "Perfect" are not acceptable answers.
For anyone to help you will need (at least) the following numbers:
- Salinity
- Temperature
- Ammonium
- Nitrates
- Phosphates
- Age of system
OP
OP
shyann009
Community Member
the salinity is a 1.025 to 1.027.I'll get it started off...
What are your tank parameters, as that is always the first question. Just a heads up, "fine", or "Perfect" are not acceptable answers.
For anyone to help you will need (at least) the following numbers:
And any other information you have.
- Salinity
- Temperature
- Ammonium
- Nitrates
- Phosphates
- Age of system
temperature stays at about 76-80 daily.
ammonia was a little high for the past two days , but after adding ammonia lock , it lowered to a .25
nitrites and nitrates are 0ppm.
age of system is about almost 3 months.
i also have some zoas on the opposite side of tank , they were doing very well , all opened are colorful. now they stayed closed and the mother of the frag gets a brown mucus on it.
ordered a new light for the tank , the par of the one i have now is good but not powerful enough for everyone.
i also have a pink condy anemone ( haitian ) , which has been acting very agitated, staying small and tight. he is still very colorful , bright white tentacles, foot is still very bright orange
arking_mark
2500 Club Member
I'm guessing you're using Api to test for ammonia?
1. Once tank has cycled, ammonia should almost never be a problem. Api tests are notorious for being error prone. So I don't think ammonia is your problem.
2. I would start by running some GAC and a larger water change.
www.reef2reef.com
1. Once tank has cycled, ammonia should almost never be a problem. Api tests are notorious for being error prone. So I don't think ammonia is your problem.
2. I would start by running some GAC and a larger water change.
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Brady4000
I just wanted a Mantis Shrimp.
Since the last thread you posted on was locked. I’ll move. @Chefwheredyougo post over, since I agree with this post.
“
Just read your first post... pretty much what I got from it is you still have detectable ammonia, no nitrite, no nitrates (haven't completed your cycle), your parameters are pretty unstable, your adding a new light (again instability), you've added an anemone already, and just assuming here, you don't test the big 3.
To help you, get your parameters stable and complete your cycle before you start throwing animals that can and will die, and possibly harm yourself and/or your family into your tank. Get your nutrients up a bit for all 3 of the inhabitants you mentioned in your first post.
Check all of your water parameters, ensure there's no contaminants like aerosols sprayed near the tank, make sure there's nothing munching or otherwise bothering them. Return with whatever information you've gathered.
Btw, do you have any fish CUC or anything besides the 3 you've mentioned?”
Edit: could not quote the regular way, since you can’t pull quotes from locked threads.
www.reef2reef.com
“
Just read your first post... pretty much what I got from it is you still have detectable ammonia, no nitrite, no nitrates (haven't completed your cycle), your parameters are pretty unstable, your adding a new light (again instability), you've added an anemone already, and just assuming here, you don't test the big 3.
To help you, get your parameters stable and complete your cycle before you start throwing animals that can and will die, and possibly harm yourself and/or your family into your tank. Get your nutrients up a bit for all 3 of the inhabitants you mentioned in your first post.
Check all of your water parameters, ensure there's no contaminants like aerosols sprayed near the tank, make sure there's nothing munching or otherwise bothering them. Return with whatever information you've gathered.
Btw, do you have any fish CUC or anything besides the 3 you've mentioned?”
Edit: could not quote the regular way, since you can’t pull quotes from locked threads.
very upset about the help
very disappointed about the help you guys claim to give. i tried to help help about my pallies and zoas. but no help at all. very dissatisfied
www.reef2reef.com
Last edited:
rona2035
Active Member
I have had nitrite and nitrate in my tank and still have had no harm to any Zoas in my tank I would agree it’s most likely the ammonia. Zoas are usually pretty hardy including the high end ones from what ive experienced..
Team, her tank is fully cycled. Can’t you tell by the pics
if the clues aren’t readily apparent what have i been soap boxing about the last eight
shes losing corals for reasons other than cycling/ ammonia
do fish usually live and eat in uncycled tanks with clean water for weeks?
post a full clear tank shot of this aquarium, not your params, because if you search api ammonia misread you can see what your params said in ten thousand other reefs. We are long past cycling issues. She said .25 and y’all take the bait and dive to the bottom
going off pics I would start with salinity massively out of whack, ie eighteen bubbles not thumped off the swing arm. Rule out salinity and temp then do a water change and start this nano out with fresh clean saltwater.
if the clues aren’t readily apparent what have i been soap boxing about the last eight
shes losing corals for reasons other than cycling/ ammonia
do fish usually live and eat in uncycled tanks with clean water for weeks?
post a full clear tank shot of this aquarium, not your params, because if you search api ammonia misread you can see what your params said in ten thousand other reefs. We are long past cycling issues. She said .25 and y’all take the bait and dive to the bottom
going off pics I would start with salinity massively out of whack, ie eighteen bubbles not thumped off the swing arm. Rule out salinity and temp then do a water change and start this nano out with fresh clean saltwater.
Brady4000
I just wanted a Mantis Shrimp.
You have a better eye then me.. maybe the blues are throwing me off.
I see white white sand, and a small rock with what looks like algae… it could have had die off. Maybe it “was” a live rock? And a snail with algae. Which probably came from the fish store that way.
If she’s getting ammonia, thats an issue.
rona2035
Active Member
Not attacking you or anything but how would we know it’s cycled I’m looking and I seek rock with algae and coralline but I can just get a rock like that from my lfs tanks can take months to cycle if they are stalled
Brady4000
I just wanted a Mantis Shrimp.
How do you know what she’s testing with? That was just someone’s guess.
Not trying to be rude… just lining up the info givin, for best advice.
I could definitely have missed something. So this is for me, just as much as whoever els is reading.
monkeyCmonkeyDo
7500 Club Member
I would.like to know your equipment.
The size.of the aquarium.
What your using to test.temp and salt?
Ty.
Welcome!
-d
The size.of the aquarium.
What your using to test.temp and salt?
Ty.
Welcome!
-d
fishguy242
Cronies..... INSERT BUILD THREAD BADGE HERE !!
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FIREBUG
hi ,water change ,rinsed carbon,feed lil bit more ,few times a day ,and as mentioned ,all params as possible...
this is a help thread ,not a debate .. jmo all..
this is a help thread ,not a debate .. jmo all..
For starters the rock we see is pigmented vs bone white
that means it’s aged, with bac
also add the fact the fish is alive and well after several feedings, which is impossible in a non cycled system. Updated cycling rules say no cycles can be partial, they’re either done and able to carry bioload or they’re not done and the bioload can’t make 48 hours without turning water totally gray and everything dying.
-that rule comes from seneye owners, not api owners, they feel that cycles can stall at a quarter ppm for ninety days or more.
that tank from the partial picture doesn’t look like it contained much rock, certainly not the common wall stack. But it’s enough surface area or she’d have not made 48 hours after setup, I bet bottle bac was used in addition based on trending we see in forums last decade. Post full tank pics maam. You can tell by the size of the clown the tank isn’t very big, low dilution nano in my opinion it just means any cycling errors would have already shown. The zoanthid opened in the second pic means there’s no free ammonia or it won’t open, it would be burnt and irritated and closed up like a reverse umbrella
that means it’s aged, with bac
also add the fact the fish is alive and well after several feedings, which is impossible in a non cycled system. Updated cycling rules say no cycles can be partial, they’re either done and able to carry bioload or they’re not done and the bioload can’t make 48 hours without turning water totally gray and everything dying.
-that rule comes from seneye owners, not api owners, they feel that cycles can stall at a quarter ppm for ninety days or more.
that tank from the partial picture doesn’t look like it contained much rock, certainly not the common wall stack. But it’s enough surface area or she’d have not made 48 hours after setup, I bet bottle bac was used in addition based on trending we see in forums last decade. Post full tank pics maam. You can tell by the size of the clown the tank isn’t very big, low dilution nano in my opinion it just means any cycling errors would have already shown. The zoanthid opened in the second pic means there’s no free ammonia or it won’t open, it would be burnt and irritated and closed up like a reverse umbrella
monkeyCmonkeyDo
7500 Club Member
Gray. Murky. Lol. Eh. Who am i to judge?
Lol.
Answer some questions ms and we will provide some feedback to holefully carry ur fish tank on and into the future!
D
Lol.
Answer some questions ms and we will provide some feedback to holefully carry ur fish tank on and into the future!
D
monkeyCmonkeyDo
7500 Club Member
Hopefully! Lol. Oops
D
D
Staghorn
Original Reef Gangster
If the other zoas are doing well. I would attempt to spot feed those palys and zoas for that matter in a zero nitrate aquarium a little good goes a long way. Try cyclops or calanus or even brine shrimp or pellets in a pinch.
blasterman
Valuable Member
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The issue here is the zero nitrate, and I bet phosphate is zero as well. This will kill palys. They close to save as many nutrients in their tissue as possible.
Also, the ammonia issue is getting old. Corals don't breath oxygen because they dont have lungs. Ammonia is toxic to animals because it interferes with oxygen exchange, which corals don't have because they dont breath O2.
The zoonanthalae algae in coral treats ammonia as food and will consume ammonia over nitrate if its available. Ive cycled tanks with acropora in them and they didn't flinch provided I kept nutrients stable.
Since most tanks don't stabilize phosphate and nitrate until past the uglies and their inevitable nutrient dives this is why cycling gets the blame.
Also, the ammonia issue is getting old. Corals don't breath oxygen because they dont have lungs. Ammonia is toxic to animals because it interferes with oxygen exchange, which corals don't have because they dont breath O2.
The zoonanthalae algae in coral treats ammonia as food and will consume ammonia over nitrate if its available. Ive cycled tanks with acropora in them and they didn't flinch provided I kept nutrients stable.
Since most tanks don't stabilize phosphate and nitrate until past the uglies and their inevitable nutrient dives this is why cycling gets the blame.
