Paul's 120g Dream Display Build

I would secure the returns to the stand. You will probably get some vibration noises from them. Also maybe switch out the 90s in the drains for a couple 45s to make the angle.
 
I went in and added a few more unions on the drains to make life a lot easier when switching out filter socks. Got my 120 lbs of rock and 120lbs of fiji pink sand! Planning on doing the move saturday! Just have to epoxy the rockscape I have put together and fill up some containers with water and i'll be ready!
 
Just one more idea to throw at ya Paul...... on your return plumbing, instead of just capping it off go ahead and put in another union, ball valve and barbed fitting like in the pic below. I did it initially to be able add a Reactor or ??? but also to use in WC's by attaching a hose and using the return pump to fill my 44g Brut or even to run hose all the way to house plumbing ie; toilet

DSCF0087.jpg


Cheers, Todd
 
I would put some ball valves on each return line so u can control flow if need be, also I would add a check valve to the drain line! If u loose power u don't wanna back sipon your tank water and flood your sump, add one to return line too on the main just off the pump...

Got the plumbing finished! Let me know if you see anything wrong before I glue it all together tomorrow!

Back
IMG_5035 by paulkreider60, on Flickr

Return (the 1inch is capped off in case I want to run reactors eventually)
IMG_5033 by paulkreider60, on Flickr

Closeup
IMG_5034 by paulkreider60, on Flickr
 
I would put some ball valves on each return line so u can control flow if need be, also I would add a check valve to the drain line! If u loose power u don't wanna back sipon your tank water and flood your sump, add one to return line too on the main just off the pump...

Its using a DC pump so no need for ball valves on the return lines since I can already control the flow rates. And I just have the loc line nozzles high enough that they don't drain too much water back into the sump, ran plenty of test runs with about 7 gallons left in the sump for just in case room.
 
Got the plumbing finished! Let me know if you see anything wrong before I glue it all together tomorrow!

Back
IMG_5035 by paulkreider60, on Flickr

Return (the 1inch is capped off in case I want to run reactors eventually)by paulkreider60, on Flickr

in case the power goes out you'll want to make sure your sump can contain the water that will drain out of the DT via the two returns. Never totally trust a one way valve if you plan on using one!
 
Just one more idea to throw at ya Paul...... on your return plumbing, instead of just capping it off go ahead and put in another union, ball valve and barbed fitting like in the pic below. I did it initially to be able add a Reactor or ??? but also to use in WC's by attaching a hose and using the return pump to fill my 44g Brut or even to run hose all the way to house plumbing ie; toilet

DSCF0087.jpg

Cheers, Todd

Well shoot Todd thats actually a really good idea! I'm definitely going to be making that change in the near future!
 
And thanks as for the check valves go, I didn't want to drop $60 on a 1 1/2" wye check valve so I'm just going to keep my return nozzles about 1" under the water level, I guess I've been slacking on updating this thread, I've already painted the back and glued all the fitting together, leak check is done and I plan on starting the move this saturday or next thursday!
 
So I tested the water today to get an idea of what's going on, apparently reef crystals has some pretty high params...

nitrate- 0(API)
ammonia-0(API)
nitrite-0(API)
Cal-490(Red Sea)
alk-11.2(Red Sea)
mag-1650(Red Sea)

Now this is what my tank was a week before the switch, my 55gallon that is.

Cal-400 (Red Sea)
Alk-6.9 (Red Sea)
Mag-1260 (Red Sea)
Phos- 0.04(Hanna)

Should I be worried and try and lower these levels?

Also as for the cycle, I'm using Stabiliy by Seachem to get the bacteria startup, I also threw about 20lbs of live rock in the sump.
 

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