Peroxide dip success for GHA around Zoas

[jpark457]

No real harm that I could see to the zoas and the algae is still gone a month later. Took a day or two for the algae to die back or get eaten by hermits after the peroxide.

 

[Duncan62]

I tried it yesterday with some zoas also, but I didn't get the results you did.Will try your saltwater, peroxide percentage again Sunday when I do my water change.Those Rastas will grow like weeds once the rock is clean.

Leave it in till it bubbles good. Some people say 2 minutes but that's not needed. Even if all algae doesnt disappear over night it will soon. Easier on the corals. Good luck.

 

[Vagabond]

Leave it in till it bubbles good. Some people say 2 minutes but that's not needed. Even if all algae doesnt disappear over night it will soon. Easier on the corals. Good luck.

Yeah,your right.Left the frag abit longer and it worked great.

 

[ZombieEngineer]

Be very careful with this. Too much peroxide and the zoas will spew tons of palytoxins.

Zoas don't carry palytoxin. Only palys and specifically the "button polyp" variety do. The ones that do have sand incorporated into their tissue.

 

[Spare time]

Zoas don't carry palytoxin. Only palys and specifically the "button polyp" variety do. The ones that do have sand incorporated into their tissue.

That is not true. Three examples are Zoanthicus sansibaricus, Zoanthus solanderi, Zoanthus sociatus. It is also important to note that Zoantharia includes Palythoa and Zoanthicus so its not necessary incorrect to call booth "zoas."

 

[ZombieEngineer]

That is not true. Three examples are Zoanthicus sansibaricus, Zoanthus solanderi, Zoanthus sociatus. It is also important to note that Zoantharia includes Palythoa and Zoanthicus so its not necessary incorrect to call booth "zoas."

Gonna need a reference...

"The vast majority of such specimens which enter the trade are either Zoanthus vietnamensis or Zoanthus sansibaricus. The abundant red and green zoas exported from Vietnam are the latter, and these are apparently lacking in palytoxin at any detectable level."

I found three articles saying the first mention has no detectable levels of it. Didn't check the other two you mentioned. Quoted one above.

 

[Spare time]

Gonna need a reference...

"The vast majority of such specimens which enter the trade are either Zoanthus vietnamensis or Zoanthus sansibaricus. The abundant red and green zoas exported from Vietnam are the latter, and these are apparently lacking in palytoxin at any detectable level."

I found three articles saying the first mention has no detectable levels of it. Didn't check the other two you mentioned. Quoted one above.

I'll get back to you when im on my desktop. It's pretty easy to find if you know how to sift through academic papers and publications, but that skill takes a bit of time to develop and isnt exciting haha. But if you can't find it in the mean time, like I said I'll hop back on my desktop probably tomorrow and post it here (I might attach a pdf since you can't access these unless you have something like university access)

 

[Harold999]

I've also had great luck carefully using a qtip to really go nuts with undiluted peroxide on small rocks and frag plugs, being careful to not get it on the coral

I want to do that with a wall hammer who has some gha on the side close to the top where the polyps start.
I think about doing this late at night after the lights gone off, when the hammer is fully retracted.
Good or bad idea?

 

[Chrisv.]

I want to do that with a wall hammer who has some gha on the side close to the top where the polyps start.
I think about doing this after the lights gone off, when the hammer is fully retracted.
Good or bad idea?

Can you actually remove the colony from the water? If so, I see absolutely no reason why not to do it... just don't get undiluted peroxide on the coral itself. When I am doing this on sps frag plugs I tend to leave the corals to sit out for about 45 seconds or so, then put them into a container of tank water, then right into the tank.

 

[Spare time]

Here are some references. If you want the one regarding parazoanthids let me know. If the link to PlOS ONE doesn't work let me know https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0018235

 

[Spare time]

This also lists the reports of palytoxin poisoning and the species that were reported with the issue. This is not the most well analyzed topic, so you have to remember that only a few species being reported to have significant levels of the toxin doesn't mean that there are not plenty more that contain it. Thus, its good to treat all Zoantharia with caution

 

[ZombieEngineer]

This also lists the reports of palytoxin poisoning and the species that were reported with the issue. This is not the most well analyzed topic, so you have to remember that only a few species being reported to have significant levels of the toxin doesn't mean that there are not plenty more that contain it. Thus, its good to treat all Zoantharia with caution

That one lists the zoa categories as not detectable or "weakly toxic" which according to their definition is that there is a possible antibody measure that could in theory inhibit measurement of actual palytoxin but no palytoxin was actually measured. Ie might have a tiny amount too small to measure with mass spectrometer or could have none.

I agree it's better to be safe than sorry, but if you're talking a brightly colored obviously zoa specimen such as a rasta, sunny d etc, you don't need to bust out the hazmat gear. If it's stiff, spikey, or button polyp-esque, assume that it's super poisonous.

 

[Harold999]

Can you actually remove the colony from the water? If so, I see absolutely no reason why not to do it... just don't get undiluted peroxide on the coral itself. When I am doing this on sps frag plugs I tend to leave the corals to sit out for about 45 seconds or so, then put them into a container of tank water, then right into the tank.

Yes i can remove the wall hammer from the water easily.
My question though was if it is a good idea to do it at night, because he is more retracted then, easier to work with.

 

[jpark457]

Yes i can remove the wall hammer from the water easily.
My question though was if it is a good idea to do it at night, because he is more retracted then, easier to work with.

for the zoas I swish them around a bit in the tank to get them a little annoyed / retracted before dropping in the dip. I don’t have anything that told me to do that but feels like you want the polyps protecting themselves as much as possible while the peroxide is getting at stuff.

 

[jonny4ever]

Be very careful with this. Too much peroxide and the zoas will spew tons of palytoxins.

I drench them and micro lords in peroxide whenever necessary. Never had an issue

 

[Chrisv.]

Yes i can remove the wall hammer from the water easily.
My question though was if it is a good idea to do it at night, because he is more retracted then, easier to work with.

Well, my vote is to do it when the coral is as retracted as possible. I'm pretty paranoid about lps corals being damaged by the weight of water in their polyps when removed from the tank. Takes a minute to tick them off to the point that they retract, but I think it's worth it.

If your coral is well retracted at night, then night works! As a previous poster said above, I'd manually remove what's possible and then hit it with peroxide. On a big surface like that maybe a cotton swab would work better than a qtip.

 

[Chrisv.]

That one lists the zoa categories as not detectable or "weakly toxic" which according to their definition is that there is a possible antibody measure that could in theory inhibit measurement of actual palytoxin but no palytoxin was actually measured. Ie might have a tiny amount too small to measure with mass spectrometer or could have none.

I agree it's better to be safe than sorry, but if you're talking a brightly colored obviously zoa specimen such as a rasta, sunny d etc, you don't need to bust out the hazmat gear. If it's stiff, spikey, or button polyp-esque, assume that it's super poisonous.

Another datapoint from a member of my local club, who had a publication worthy experience with Green Bay packers. For me it will always be “better safe than sorry.”

Toxic Keratoconjunctivitis from Coral Reef

Abstract. A 25-year-old woman presented with right eye pain, lid edema, conjunctival injection and chemosis, and mild corneal epitheliopathy after exposure to fluid content from an aquarium coral reef. Topical moxifloxacin and prednisolone were started 4 times daily, with full clinical...

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