Phosphat-E & ReefMat

Jody Owens

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I am currently running a Reefmat in my tanks over filter socks. I have noticed high levels of phosphates (over 1 ppm possibly closer to 3ppm based on the Selifert test) and was dosing Phosphat-E to help lower them. I have been putting 5ML in the reefmat once a day. Based on what I am seeing with the Selifert test, it appears to have lowered the levels some, but they are still high. Is the reefmat the proper location to be dosing it or should I put putting it directly into the skimmer?
 
I’m not familiar with the reef Matt rollers but if the water is passing through it you should be fine . Salifert is not imo accurate as I’ve used it before . I have great success with the Hanna ulr phosphate checker . How much is it bringing your phosphates down when you dose and how big is your tank .
 
I’m not familiar with the reef Matt rollers but if the water is passing through it you should be fine . Salifert is not imo accurate as I’ve used it before . I have great success with the Hanna ulr phosphate checker . How much is it bringing your phosphates down when you dose and how big is your tank .
Based on the original test, the levels were close to 3. I have a Red Sea 300XL and 350XL. Because the levels are so high, I am maxing out my Hanna and it just shows the .9. I have used the calculator and the 5ML dose should be reducing the numbers by around .25 ppm per day. I am guessing that I will need to dose for awhile longer to see the numbers come down to a readable level.
 
I have a reefmat. The paper isnt fine enough to properly stop all the particles from floating into the tank. I used the proper micron socks before I got the reefmat. Worked well. That beeing said I now add phosphate-e into my overflow box. This I believe gives the product more time to work before it goes thru the reefmat. Try to dose it slowly. Use the NO4 calculator. Take it slow with phosphate-e. Dont want to go to low too fast.
 
You answered as I was typing lol. I read that LC can throw off the numbers of the Hanna test so you need to wait a few days for the product to do its thing. If your Hanna is 0.90 it could mean that you are just really high and it will take some time to get a reading under that. I read somewhere that you can take your water and dilute it so that you can get a reading and then you just multiply that reading to get the actual reading... just until your NO4 is under 0.90.
 
I have a reefmat. The paper isnt fine enough to properly stop all the particles from floating into the tank. I used the proper micron socks before I got the reefmat. Worked well. That beeing said I now add phosphate-e into my overflow box. This I believe gives the product more time to work before it goes thru the reefmat. Try to dose it slowly. Use the NO4 calculator. Take it slow with phosphate-e. Dont want to go to low too fast.
I do have Tangs and I am using the calculator. I am basing it on lowering it by .5 ppm per day and then dosing half of that. So that is why I was doing it so low. I could do the overflow too. I am open to both options.
 
Based on the original test, the levels were close to 3. I have a Red Sea 300XL and 350XL. Because the levels are so high, I am maxing out my Hanna and it just shows the .9. I have used the calculator and the 5ML dose should be reducing the numbers by around .25 ppm per day. I am guessing that I will need to dose for awhile longer to see the numbers come down to a readable level.
Yes it will take longer and you might want to cut back feeding for a bit to help bringing down those number .
 
Do you have tangs? Dose slowly and throughout the day
I have 5 Tangs... but no zebras tho. I also think that the problem might be when you overdose it or use the pool type brand of LC. The brightwell and Blue life brands might be a bit diluted. Meleve just dumps it right into his tank and his tangs swim right thru it.
 
Also remember that as the phosphate-e removes NO4... you have NO4 bound up in your rocks and sand that will start to release into the water until your tank comes to equilibrium. So you might be getting high test results for some time.
 
I have 5 Tangs... but no zebras tho. I also think that the problem might be when you overdose it or use the pool type brand of LC. The brightwell and Blue life brands might be a bit diluted. Meleve just dumps it right into his tank and his tangs swim right thru it.
The question comes where is the correct location to put it.
 
The best place would be to slowly drip it into a 100 micron sock to collect all the particles.
 
Based on the original test, the levels were close to 3. I have a Red Sea 300XL and 350XL. Because the levels are so high, I am maxing out my Hanna and it just shows the .9. I have used the calculator and the 5ML dose should be reducing the numbers by around .25 ppm per day. I am guessing that I will need to dose for awhile longer to see the numbers come down to a readable level.
Are you feeding your coral reef roids or a similar product as they can bring up phosphate. If so until you get you numbers back into line put a hold on using for a bit .
 
I am just using TDO and I have cut back on the amount I am feeding.
That will help . Once you get back within range you can adjust accordingly. Pellet Food and additives are one of the top ways we introduce phosphates into our tanks ,that and new rocks
 
So far here are the options that people have suggested to put it:

1. Reefmat
2. In the Overflow
3. Putting it into a filter sock and slowly dosing (I don't have a way to easily do this)
 
I put it in my ReefMat my overflow which the it passes through my ReefMat. The calculators do not know your daily addition of po4 through feeding or what is in your rock/sand. Just keep at it and be patient. Phosphate-e works really well and sometimes to well, so be careful
 
Also remember that as the phosphate-e removes NO4... you have NO4 bound up in your rocks and sand that will start to release into the water until your tank comes to equilibrium. So you might be getting high test results for some time.

PO4, not NO4 :)
 

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