Phosphate always measures 0 but...

[nigelmansell]

All my rocks, snail shells, dead coral skeletons etc go green! You cannot easily scrub it off, but peroxide removes and restores the underlying colour.

I'm using the Elos HR phosphate kit, I also checked with the Salifert kit and got the same result. Zero.

Should I add GFO even though my test kit says the level is zero? Can it be that my phosphate is in a form not measured by the kits?#

I'm wondering if this algae (assuming that's what it is) is simply using all the phosphate up before I can measure it on my kit.

I have no hair algae, bryopsis, or anything like that. Just the surface itself appearing to go green.

 

[GTM42]

Sounds like the natural cycle to me just let time take its course and it will turn purple over time.

 

[nigelmansell]

Thanks Graham, but it's been running for a year already I do get coraline as well (green, pink and purple), but this is different and very ugly.

I forgot to take a pic before I left for work, but I found this one which looks similar:

Unfortunately the thread the pic came from had no answers. I was wondering if I should add an urchin as apparently they can scrape things more effectively.

But I guess the underlying issue is phosphate? Just very scared to add GFO since last time I added a half dose and all my SPS stripped over night

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

But I guess the underlying issue is phosphate?

Algae is never caused by one thing. It needs ALL of a source of nitrogen, phosphate, various trace elements (e.g., iron), sufficient light, a place to grow, freedom from herbivores, etc. An excessively high amount of any of these isn't likely to make algae any worse than if there is simply "enough".

If you take away any one of those, the problem will recede, and different reefers achieve less algae using a variety of these different requirements.

It is certainly possible that the algae is taking up any available phosphate. It may also be getting it locally from the skeletons it is attached to (at least for a while, till that source is depleted).

 

[ChrisOFL]

Could be coralline? I wouldn't be adding GFO if your phosphates are 0 naturally. This has caused problems in the past with my tank as well. You may just have to remove it from time to time if you don't like the appearance.

 

[nigelmansell]

Algae is never caused by one thing. It needs ALL of a source of nitrogen, phosphate, various trace elements (e.g., iron), sufficient light, a place to grow, freedom from herbivores, etc. An excessively high amount of any of these isn't likely to make algae any worse than if there is simply "enough".

If you take away any one of those, the problem will recede, and different reefers achieve less algae using a variety of these different requirements.

It is certainly possible that the algae is taking up any available phosphate. It may also be getting it locally from the skeletons it is attached to (at least for a while, till that source is depleted).

Yes I understand and agree, but I thought phosphate was generally considered the best candidate to control algae growth (since corals prefer a very low but non-zero amount of it)?

In any case, I don't add traces/iron, my nitrate reading is between zero and 1 PPM. So not sure what else I can control?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Yes I understand and agree, but I thought phosphate was generally considered the best candidate to control algae growth (since corals prefer a very low but non-zero amount of it)?

In any case, I don't add traces/iron, my nitrate reading is between zero and 1 PPM. So not sure what else I can control?

It is a good candidate, but it does not always work.

 

[nigelmansell]

Could be coralline? I wouldn't be adding GFO if your phosphates are 0 naturally. This has caused problems in the past with my tank as well. You may just have to remove it from time to time if you don't like the appearance.

I don't think it's coralline, since you can scrape away coralline usually. This stuff is sortof embedded into the surface, almost like it's been dyed.

Like I said, peroxide dips out of the tank do remove it, but that's not possible for my larger rocks, especially as some have coral encrusted.

 

[Heuristic]

I am always at 0 when I check my hanna phosphate checker too, but GHA still can run rampant. The problem is the hair algae is eating it up before it becomes available to test

 

[Charterreefer]

Another good way to remove algae growth is having a few herbivores in there. I'm sure many great looking reef tanks would get ugly fast without the use of clean up crews. Nutrient levels required to get great color and growth in your corals are also available for unwanted algae and always will be! It's a balancing act for sure.

 

[Rick Krejci]

Embrace the rich colors of a natural reef. The coralline will eventually overtake it if your parameters are solid. I personally really don't like the sterile dead skeleton look...real reefs don't look like. It provides food for any herbivores. And if you push phosphates too low, you may end up with something like Dinos that can take over when there are no competitors.

I would NOT advise GFO if your phosphates read 0.

 

[nigelmansell]

It is a good candidate, but it does not always work.

Okay, thank you. Are there any others to consider?

I am always at 0 when I check my hanna phosphate checker too, but GHA still can run rampant. The problem is the hair algae is eating it up before it becomes available to test

Yeah this is what I assume is happening. Just not sure what I can do to stop it.

Another good way to remove algae growth is having a few herbivores in there. I'm sure many great looking reef tanks would get ugly fast without the use of clean up crews. Nutrient levels required to get great color and growth in your corals are also available for unwanted algae and always will be! It's a balancing act for sure.

Okay, any recommendations? Have hermits, ceriths, trochus, astraea in there currently.

Embrace the rich colors of a natural reef. The coralline will eventually overtake it if your parameters are solid. I personally really don't like the sterile dead skeleton look...real reefs don't look like. It provides food for any herbivores. And if you push phosphates too low, you may end up with something like Dinos that can take over when there are no competitors.

I would NOT advise GFO if your phosphates read 0.

Thanks dude, funny enough I have previously had dinos in this tank. Not too keen on having those again!

 

[Charterreefer]

Okay, thank you. Are there any others to consider?



Yeah this is what I assume is happening. Just not sure what I can do to stop it.



Okay, any recommendations? Have hermits, ceriths, trochus, astraea in there currently.



Thanks dude, funny enough I have previously had dinos in this tank. Not too keen on having those again!

Tangs! stay away from GFO, you need some PO4 in the water. With a few tangs the nutrient load won't appear to be so critical (within reasonable levels that is). They will consume what grows in the tank and the corals will have the nutrients they need. Trochus snails are very good too, they can flip themselves over (don't die so easy) and eat lots of algae. Red scarlet hermits are the safest crabs to have, they don't go rogue.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I think we'd need more pictures of the system to speak to specifics of the system.

 

[Cory]

Thats baby hair algae from what i can tell. It starts by coloring your rock green. Then it will grow hairy.

All algaes accumlate their own soil. This will then release po4 locally. Hair algae is especially good at making soil.

Hair algae despite having "0" po4 can take it up as fast as it becomes available. If you had a test kit with the sensitivity and it could auto test every minute for 24 hours you' detect po4 going up and down. Up and down. It gets consumed.

That said there is no cure for algae. Its natural. You can fight it as much as you want but it will grow.

There are effective ways to control it however. Sea urchins are natures algae destroyer. Real reefs that have a lack of sea urchins get overwhelmed by algae. But when they are replaced artificially by humans the algae receeds.

Coral reefs have once been called algal reefs. Because the term coral is a misnomer. A coral reef is fueled by algae of various species. And I wouldt doubt bacteria too.

 

[nigelmansell]

Tangs! stay away from GFO, you need some PO4 in the water. With a few tangs the nutrient load won't appear to be so critical (within reasonable levels that is). They will consume what grows in the tank and the corals will have the nutrients they need. Trochus snails are very good too, they can flip themselves over (don't die so easy) and eat lots of algae. Red scarlet hermits are the safest crabs to have, they don't go rogue.

Haha, problem is they'd probably starve! I don't get any algae, just everything goes green!

I think we'd need more pictures of the system to speak to specifics of the system.

I'll get some when I get in, what do you want to see?

 

[nigelmansell]

Thats baby hair algae from what i can tell. It starts by coloring your rock green. Then it will grow hairy.

All algaes accumlate their own soil. This will then release po4 locally. Hair algae is especially good at making soil.

Hair algae despite having "0" po4 can take it up as fast as it becomes available. If you had a test kit with the sensitivity and it could auto test every minute for 24 hours you' detect po4 going up and down. Up and down. It gets consumed.

That said there is no cure for algae. Its natural. You can fight it as much as you want but it will grow.

There are effective ways to control it however. Sea urchins are matures algae destroyer. Real reefs that have a lack of sea urchins get overwhelmed by algae. But when they are replaced artificially by humans the algae receeds.

Coral reefs have once been called algal reefs. Because the term coral is a misnomer. A coral reef is fueled by algae of various species. And I wouldt doubt bacteria too.

Thanks bud, urchins have been a reoccurring theme during my search - I'll see if any are suitable for my (nano - 100L) tank.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Haha, problem is they'd probably starve! I don't get any algae, just everything goes green!



I'll get some when I get in, what do you want to see?

Whatever your concern is.
A Fts or specific spots.

 

[Rick Krejci]

Tuxedo Urchins are great and should be OK for your tank. Be warned that they also eat Coralline, but in doing so also seed it around the tank. But your rock /skeletons will still be green on the surface where there is no coralline with any herbivore the algae is in the pores.

 

[bdejong1112o]

Whatever your concern is.
A Fts or specific spots.

Ok, pardon my ignorance but what does FTS stand for?