Phosphate only removal, without using GFO

I'm running biopellets, which reduces Nitrates more efficiently than reducing phosphates....

I've taken GFO offline to try and get my phosphates up, when it's online it strips the water clean. Negatively effecting growth and coloration on my sps.

What's the best way to only remove phosphate from the system in a more controlled way than GFO provides?

I'm assuming dosing some type of additive? Just looking for some recommendations let me know what you do on your system if using a similar method...

I'm not sure why you think GFO is uncontrolled? If you control the amount and replacement schedule, it will reduce phosphate by whatever amount you want. :)

It's pretty much the same with any phosphate binder, be it solid or liquid. :)
 
fine control.... research Reef safe Lanthanum chloride (Phosphate Rx / ATM Agent Green / NTLABS Anti-Phos etc).... I dose 0.2 ml LC daily in my 250 Litre tank to remove exactly 0.015ppm PO4 , whilst leaving 0.015ppm PO4 still in my tank :)

FWIW a number of folks report issues with organisms such as tangs, while most do not. I'm not sure why some people see this issue.
 
I have been using lanthanum for a while now. I have it setup in a reactor with 3 chambers. 1st for reaction I had flos in second but noticed it doesn't do much so I removed it and made it also a reaction chamber while 3rd hold a 5 micron filter.
I use 2 oz lanthanum from seaklear phos remover for aquarium use and mix it in 1 gal of ro di water and dose 15 ml every hour a total of 540ml per day. Gal last 7 days. Keeps Phos under 0.03.
Note: LC will cause drop in alk and pH so you need to balance it with additional supliments.
Also I run the outflow of this reactor to in flow of my skimmer to ensure removal of all precipitation.

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Phosguard is the way to go!!! Its so much easier than gfo. It isn't a powder as well and water moves extremely well through it. It works great too, after changing it out any type of haze on the glass disappears until it needs to be changed again! I don't even use carbon, only phosguard.
 
Are you looking to remove an algae/cyno bacteria or just control it before it happens?
I have a GHA problem right now due to feeding. Picked a product called Bacter Clean M by Continuum. Basically it just reduces phosphates and detritus. Once the GHA is looking malnourished. Do a water change using a smaller syphon hose about 1/2" while the GHA is weak. Suck the algae up into the bucket. Not leaving decaying algae in your tank to feed other algae or to collect in your sponge to decay in there to turn your filtration into a phosphate reactor pretty much or leaving spores to settle in and grow more.
Directions are simple. 6 cap fulls in a cup of tank water for the first dose. 1 cap full for every 25G/100L every day for about two weeks.

Continuum-Aquatics-Bacter-Clean-M-1-Liter-99.jpg
 
Phosguard is the way to go!!! Its so much easier than gfo. It isn't a powder as well and water moves extremely well through it. It works great too, after changing it out any type of haze on the glass disappears until it needs to be changed again! I don't even use carbon, only phosguard.

If you see any corals, especially leathers, close up when using Phosguard, I'd discontinue it or use less because the released aluminum is sometimes an issue for them.
 
Ive been using Triton AL99 and it has made a world of difference. I've always struggled with phosphate but with the AL99 I was avtually able to get it where I want it and keep it there. It's almost unbelievable but I can adjust my levels of P04 by turning the valve on the reactor and see the change within 24 hours. For me it has been amazing game changing stuff.
 
I love Purigen but not a fan of Phosguard.

Bio-Pellet reactors are like a ticking time bomb to myself, but... JMO

I'd do as stated above and fine tune the GFO reactor with the dosage and flow. :)
 
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Are you looking to remove an algae/cyno bacteria or just control it before it happens?
I have a GHA problem right now due to feeding. Picked a product called Bacter Clean M by Continuum. Basically it just reduces phosphates and detritus. Once the GHA is looking malnourished. Do a water change using a smaller syphon hose about 1/2" while the GHA is weak. Suck the algae up into the bucket. Not leaving decaying algae in your tank to feed other algae or to collect in your sponge to decay in there to turn your filtration into a phosphate reactor pretty much or leaving spores to settle in and grow more.
Directions are simple. 6 cap fulls in a cup of tank water for the first dose. 1 cap full for every 25G/100L every day for about two weeks.

Continuum-Aquatics-Bacter-Clean-M-1-Liter-99.jpg

Already went through the uglies, but no algae in the DT only the fuge. I'm just trying to keep the numbers exactly where I want them.

I just feel that it would just be simpler to add a weekly dose to bring the levels down and it'll be exact with no guesswork. Unless I'm missing something, my GFO doesn't have any specific instructions on how much it will reduce via a given dose at a given flow. Even if that were the case I'd need a flow meter to properly gauge flow. Then the amount and flow are linked to correct tumble in the reactor which adds a whole new level of complexity to keep it from bricking in the reactor. People keep talking about GFO and how to properly use it... I'm just not following how without a ton of experimentation you can get the proper balance with GFO. But ulitmately I'm not interested in using GFO. My nutrient levels are so low that I genuinely believe dosing is much more attractive solution.

I'm not knocking GFO. The stuff definitely works. I just have specific parameters I want to maintain, and it just seems much much easier to dose for that accuracy, and to be completely honest, probably less expensive.
 
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I love Purigen but not a fan of Phosguard.

Bio-Pellet reactors are like a ticking time bomb to myself, but... JMO

I do as stated above and fine tune the GFO reactor with the dosage and flow. :)

My dose is extremely low, think I have a half cup on a 200 Gallon. Slow tumble.

What makes you say its a ticking time bomb? You've got me curious...
 
My nutrient levels are so low that I genuinely believe dosing is much more attractive solution.

My goal was to keep phos. and nitrates in check with out dosing anything.

To each his own and many ways to skin a cat. :)
 
What makes you say its a ticking time bomb? You've got me curious...

I've read and seen too many reefs crash with them over the long haul (including my local reef shops show tank) and they just scare the jeebers out of me.

If anybody's not willing to figure out the dose and flow rate of a GFO reactor then good luck with a Bio-Pellet reactor.

The best setup's that I've seen have a dedicated skimmer just for the BP reactors output and another skimmer for for everything else.

If your comfortable with running a bio-pellet reactor over the long haul then I'm not knocking anybody.

I'm not RH-F and I just stay with what has worked for my reef and it did take a lot of work and time to reach my no dosing goal.

If I had the room then it would be a full blown natural fuge and live rock. :)
 
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I've read and seen too many reefs crash with them over the long haul (including my local reef shops show tank) and they just scare the jeebers out of me.

If anybody's not willing to figure out the dose and flow rate of a GFO reactor then good luck with a Bio-Pellet reactor.

The best setup's that I've seen have a dedicated skimmer just for the BP reactors output and another skimmer for for everything else.

If your comfortable with running a bio-pellet reactor over the long haul then I'm not knocking anybody.

I'm not RH-F and I just stay with what has worked for my reef and it did take a lot of work and time to reach my no dosing goal.

If I had the room then it would be a full blown natural fuge and live rock. :)

Wonder what portion of tank crashes related to bio-pellets stem from people skimping on water changes and overall maintenance because the BioPellets keep nutrients so low and many people view them as a cure-all for good husbandry.

On the dosing thing I already dose Aminos, 2 Part 24 Hours a day on a pump, and a colors program. I integrate the dosing into feeding time while frozen foods are rinsed. So Adding in a weekly dose for me would be considerably easier than breaking down, cleaning, and refilling a GFO reactor once every 4-8 weeks. Then add to that worrying about cleaning a pump every few months to keep the same flow going through it. 2 ML from a syringe once a week just seems much more appealing.

I try not to put all my eggs in any one basket with filtration. So its Filter socks, Small dose of Biopellets, Large skimmer, Fuge, Carbon, and lots of Pukani live rock.

Even using only LR and a large fuge algae is going to put a dent in your Iron content, trace elements, etc. But kudos to you if you're maintaining Alk, Cal, Mag, and trace elements without doing any dosing, that's a significant accomplishment.
 
Wonder what portion of tank crashes related to bio-pellets stem from people skimping on water changes and overall maintenance because the BioPellets keep nutrients so low and many people view them as a cure-all for good husbandry.

On the dosing thing I already dose Aminos, 2 Part 24 Hours a day on a pump, and a colors program. I integrate the dosing into feeding time while frozen foods are rinsed. So Adding in a weekly dose for me would be considerably easier than breaking down, cleaning, and refilling a GFO reactor once every 4-8 weeks. Then add to that worrying about cleaning a pump every few months to keep the same flow going through it. 2 ML from a syringe once a week just seems much more appealing.

I try not to put all my eggs in any one basket with filtration. So its Filter socks, Small dose of Biopellets, Large skimmer, Fuge, Carbon, and lots of Pukani live rock.

Even using only LR and a large fuge algae is going to put a dent in your Iron content, trace elements, etc. But kudos to you if you're maintaining Alk, Cal, Mag, and trace elements without doing any dosing, that's a significant accomplishment.
I'm talking about that I have no need to carbon dose anymore.

I dose the entire Red Sea foundation program except NoPox.

I thought this thread was about phosphate which co insides with nitrate.
 
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I'm talking about that I have no need to carbon dose anymore.

My bacteria is in my live rock and not on

I dose the entire Red Sea foundation program except NoPox.

I thought this thread was about phosphate which co insides with nitrate.

I hear ya, well I think its awesome you've got your system balanced out well enough to have nutrients in check with only water changes.
 
I hear ya, well I think its awesome you've got your system balanced out well enough to have nutrients in check with only water changes.
Yes,
18% weekly water changes is one piece to my puzzle. :)

If you want to push a bio-pellet reactor as one piece to your puzzle then more power to you.

They just scare me.

No one best way, we all find our own rhythm. :)
 
Ok good luck, take it slow, read instructions and follow them!! check out @melev youtube channel etc.

I have highlighted "reef safe" LC as opposed to cheap swimming pool LC as the reef versions are tested for our tanks and they contain floculants that allow the Lanthanum Phosphate to be filtered or skimmed out of the tank.
Thank you for mentioning that sir. I have been using seaclear with mixed success and need to order more anyway. I just placed an order for ATM agent green instead. :D
 
I have a yellow tang that looked terrible both times I dosed Lanthium Chloride in the tank swam around breathing super heavy looked like he just saw a ghost.
 

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