Phosphate problem. Have questions.

So I started to think I had my lights on too long and asked on here if I had. Apparently I dont. Ive been researching on the algaes, and some algae is just GHA but the other is the dreaded byropsis. One rock is pretty much covered in it so I put it in my sump in hopes of starving it of light (sump has no light). Is this a bad idea? I was curious if somehow it could break from the rock and seed my tank. I did a peroxide dip on a zoa colony that had byropsis growing in the middle of some zoas. The dip was helpful but did not kill all of the byropsis. I started to dose peroxide to the entire tank. Some of my SPS are browning out, but its only the green ones.

Is dosin the entire tank a bad idea? Im getting kind of desperate. Does anyone have any input on what to do? Ive read this stuff is basically the devil, just in plant form...

I started running GFO about 3 weeks ago and the only effect ive noticed is the clarity of my water. My tank finally looks "wet" haha. Today I searched my tank for little sprigs of byropsis and pulled them off the rock and into the trash. I also scrubbed the hell out of a rock, in a seperate container of course, with some smaller patches. I think I got most of it, but who knows if it will come back.

Again, any and all advice on what to do is extremely appreciated. Thanks everyone!
 
For two years I could not get my phosphates down below .26, I had tried everything, phosphate reactor with biplastic, gfo, Chemical Pure elite with phosphate remover. Nothing worked! A month ago I switched over the the Red Sea coral care program, it is the most amazing program my corals started to grow like crazy and the colors deepened, it was amazing. One of the products in the program is an algae/ phosphate control additive. I am so happy to say every time I test my 210 gallon and 65 gallon the phosphate reading is now .02. You must try it. The way it works is not by removing the phosphate , but by increasing the bacteria that eat phosphate .


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What coral care program are you reffering to? The NO3/PO4 reducer? I just read up on that one and I dont run carbon in my system. I got the assumption that it is used with carbon.
 
Yes the is the product I am referring to and I do not run carbon either, it is not required, I'm telling you my tank is perfect after three years of trying everything.


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What kind of algae did you have growing? Im desperate and need something to keep me from throwing in the towel. If you had byropsis, then ill definatly take the plunge into it.
 
Wish I red this 5 months ago. I did exactly that - the GFO got rid of the algae, but then I had a bad red slime algae outbreak. Never had it before. Took me another six weeks of diligently siphoning to get rid of it. Took the GFO off line really wasn't pleased. Can you state why this happens?
First of all you definately need a Hamma Checker for phospates. Only use RO/DI water, don't ever use tap water if you want to keep coral. I too have high phospates and just bought a BRS reactor and HC GFO from Bulk Reef Supply. I started it up on Saturday when my phospates were .41 and now 5 days later my Hanna Checker reads .21 so IT WORKS!! But you really don't want to lower phospates to fast so what ever the instructions state of the amount of HC GFO for your sized tank - only use half to start with and let it stew for 2 weeks or so before slowing adding more HC GCF.

Phosphates do cause algae ... but on the flip side removing phosphates TO FAST and you may cause a cyno bacteria outbreak ... so do it SLOW.
 
Wish I red this 5 months ago. I did exactly that - the GFO got rid of the algae, but then I had a bad red slime algae outbreak. Never had it before. Took me another six weeks of diligently siphoning to get rid of it. Took the GFO off line really wasn't pleased. Can you state why this happens?

Unfortunately "I" can't tell you why lowering your phosphates to fast causes a cyno outbreak , because really it is counter intutitive as cyno consume phosphates so you'd think it would stop cyno. Maybe some of the other reef gurus can shed some light on this. I just know that there is a fine balance of chemisty and bacteria in out reef tanks and if you affect one side of things to fast then you have unbalance and bad things happen. I had someone suggest to me to add 'good bacteria' (Special Blend) to the tank when lowering phosphates. I do this and have good results.

And it sounds like Red Sea NO3/PO4X is a 'good bacteria' that does a similar affect to the reef tank.
 
First of all you definately need a Hamma Checker for phospates. Only use RO/DI water, don't ever use tap water if you want to keep coral. I too have high phospates and just bought a BRS reactor and HC GFO from Bulk Reef Supply. I started it up on Saturday when my phospates were .41 and now 5 days later my Hanna Checker reads .21 so IT WORKS!! But you really don't want to lower phospates to fast so what ever the instructions state of the amount of HC GFO for your sized tank - only use half to start with and let it stew for 2 weeks or so before slowing adding more HC GCF.

Phosphates do cause algae ... but on the flip side removing phosphates TO FAST and you may cause a cyno bacteria outbreak ... so do it SLOW.

Have never heard of lowering po4 to fast to cause cyano-please where did you find this info?


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Have never heard of lowering po4 to fast to cause cyano-please where did you find this info?


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From this forum and other reef forums ... I have read tons and tons of posts and info on phosphates and came across alot of people that mentioned cyno outbreaks when their po4 lowered to fast. The main take away was just 'nothing good happens fast' so don't lower your po4 to fast I was told. I am basically new to reef keeping and this is all just anecdotal advice.
 

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