ngarcia11892
Active Member
Ok so im using api test kit and am getting .25 which of course is too high what are some of my ways of getting this number down other than water changes? And also what is a better test kit than api
Phosphate testing
- Thread starter ngarcia11892
- Start date
- Tagged users None
ngarcia11892
Active Member
No one?
StikHedRon
Well-Known Member
Hanna HI713 low range phosphorus checker, all phosphate checkers are not that accurate unless you spend the big bucks for one.
ngarcia11892
Active Member
3 years it's been up and mostly lps n a little sps including acros everything else is good just worried bout acros and the algae and my trates r 0
Keithcorals
Well-Known Member
API only reads down to .25 it isn't a good idea to do anything unless you get a better test kit like the Hanna checker. They work well but some people have a hard time with them because they are a little more I involved than the simpler test kits. If it ain't broke don't fix it. How do your corals look?
ngarcia11892
Active Member
Good except for the acro pe Is terrible
Waters
"...in perfect isolation, here behind my wall."
I have kind of come to the realization that phosphate testing is highly overrated lol. If you have nuisance algae, you have phosphates....if you don't have algae, your phosphates are "probably" under control. If you test and show 0 phosphates, people tell you it is because your algae is consuming the phosphates. So to sum up, the only time it makes sense to test for phosphates is to confirm that your nuisance algae is in fact being caused by excessive phosphates...which you already knew anyways 
vlangel
Seahorse whisperer
I have kind of come to the realization that phosphate testing is highly overrated lol. If you have nuisance algae, you have phosphates....if you don't have algae, your phosphates are "probably" under control. If you test and show 0 phosphates, people tell you it is because your algae is consuming the phosphates. So to sum up, the only time it makes sense to test for phosphates is to confirm that your nuisance algae is in fact being caused by excessive phosphates...which you already knew anyways
Amen!
jservedio
Active Member
I wouldn't really bother with that one - go for the HI736 ULR which is 2.6x more accurate (it has an error rate of 0.015ppm as opposed to 0.04ppm) for exactly the same price...
jservedio
Active Member
I have kind of come to the realization that phosphate testing is highly overrated lol. If you have nuisance algae, you have phosphates....if you don't have algae, your phosphates are "probably" under control. If you test and show 0 phosphates, people tell you it is because your algae is consuming the phosphates. So to sum up, the only time it makes sense to test for phosphates is to confirm that your nuisance algae is in fact being caused by excessive phosphates...which you already knew anyways
I find it is also really useful for not going overboard with lowering your phosphates and starving your tank completely of nutrients. If you have no nuisance algae, you really don't know what is going on in your tank in terms of phosphates other than it is "really low". With the ULR checker, you can be sure that you aren't completely stripping your tank of phosphates with GFO. Anyone can get zero phosphates by running a boatload of GFO constantly, but that is just as bad for your tank as having too many phosphates.
Finding that sweet spot where you have no nuisance algae and your corals aren't nutrient starved is where the Hanna ULR Checker shines.
ngarcia11892
Active Member
I do have nuesence algae on my sand haha been there sense day 1 so I guess gfo it is or vodka dosing?
tvoydan
Community Member
My phospahtes were .25. I added a GFO reactor running rowaphos and after a month pulled them down to .07 last check. Currently looking into a bio-pellet reactor to see if that will help control phospahtes. I run the Hanna meter for phospahte tests (not the ultra low version). Test results seem to be pretty consistent to me as long as I am careful with testing procedures.
I agree, if nuisance algae is not a problem and growth doesn't seem good, I wouldn't be to worried about them.
By the way after running tests over and over, I can actually tell from the tint right away and guess at my phosphate level regardless of the kit (salifert, api, or hanna).
I agree, if nuisance algae is not a problem and growth doesn't seem good, I wouldn't be to worried about them.
By the way after running tests over and over, I can actually tell from the tint right away and guess at my phosphate level regardless of the kit (salifert, api, or hanna).
StikHedRon
Well-Known Member
This is the one I meant, couldn't remember if it was 713 or 736
Ok here goes, algae along with phosphates is a myth. Plain and simple, ya gotta have nitrates with the phosphates or it doesn't work as well. I ran my tank with 0 trates and 10.0, in other words phosphates off the charts, and I had no algae in my tank what so ever.I have kind of come to the realization that phosphate testing is highly overrated lol. If you have nuisance algae, you have phosphates....if you don't have algae, your phosphates are "probably" under control. If you test and show 0 phosphates, people tell you it is because your algae is consuming the phosphates. So to sum up, the only time it makes sense to test for phosphates is to confirm that your nuisance algae is in fact being caused by excessive phosphates...which you already knew anyways
With that said, I got my phosphates down to 0 in 1 week using SeaKlear Pool Phosphate remover, its a liquid, and you dose very little, being as its made for pools you can see where alittle goes along way here. Thats my recommendation. It doesn't cost half as much as GFO, and will outlast it way down the line.
When using the API phosphate test kit, look into the vial, from the top down. If that color isn't the same color after step 2 as the color is in step 1, you have phosphates.
KoleTang
Valuable Member
I've heard bad things about Salifert's phosphate test. Elos and Red Sea might be better options.
watdachuck
Valuable Member
You might want to try using Poly-Filer pad. That or maybe Extrax Phos by Brightwell Aquatics. I have found both of these to work well, especially the Poly-Filter if you are also testing high for any heavy metals. Still, always look for the source while correcting it.
Waters
"...in perfect isolation, here behind my wall."
I agree...that is why I said "if you don't have algae, your phosphates are "probably" under control"....meaning just the fact that your tank is void of algae doesn't necessarily mean that you don't have phosphates. Phosphates are just one of a few things needed for nuisance algae (or any algae for that matter) to thrive. But, like I said, if you have algae....you have phosphates :bigsmile:
