Phosphate testing

I've heard bad things about Salifert's phosphate test. Elos and Red Sea might be better options.

I've used salifert for 4 years now, the only test kit I've had a problem with is their strontium test kit. There PO4- kit is good and has always worked well for me.
 
I've used salifert for 4 years now, the only test kit I've had a problem with is their strontium test kit. There PO4- kit is good and has always worked well for me.

Try testing that against a Hanna ULR Checker. I thought my Salifert Phosphate kit was good too, until I got the Hanna 2 years later. I was testing 0.00 (or at least "below 0.03") on the Salifert up to 0.12ppm. Same thing with Red Sea Pro (little better) and the API was off the charts. The problem with all of the phosphate tests is they are colorometric tests and not titration tests (Like Alk, Ca, and mag) and the difference between "good" and "bad" on their charts is such a small margin.
 
Try testing that against a Hanna ULR Checker. I thought my Salifert Phosphate kit was good too, until I got the Hanna 2 years later. I was testing 0.00 (or at least "below 0.03") on the Salifert up to 0.12ppm. Same thing with Red Sea Pro (little better) and the API was off the charts. The problem with all of the phosphate tests is they are colorometric tests and not titration tests (Like Alk, Ca, and mag) and the difference between "good" and "bad" on their charts is such a small margin.

Interesting I will have to check it out
 
Phosphate RX. I read a thread from Melev about it's use. I didn't want to use GFO. It's lanthanum chloride which is used by large public aquariums. I like it and my phosphates are currently at 0.00. I dose directly into my skimmer at night when needed. I also suggest a Hanna
 
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using SeaKlear Pool Phosphate remover, its a liquid, and you dose very little,
Can you define "very little" ? Do you dose regularly in a proactive manor or only when phosphate shows up on a test kit. I just moved my year old 28 gal mixed nano into a 50 gal tank. I have been using GFO in a reactor for 6 months. There has not been algae problem since the initial cycle of the nano and would like to keep it that way. The Salifert test has been showing zero.
 
There are a few simple things that you can do that help. One is to insure that if you are feeding with frozen food you thaw it out in RO or tank water and then rinse it before feeding your tank. Most times the "water" in the cube or frozen sheet contains phosphates. Over feeding contributes as well to some degree. I was chasing phosphates for a long time and found that if I wanted to really have an accurate measure then I would need to purchase a colorimeter better than the $65 Hanna that I was using. It was fine and truth be known wasn't that far off from the Martini low end phosphate checker I purchased from Milwaukee instruments. Big investment ~$160 and not sure it was worth it, in fact I know it wasn't worth it. Running GFO in a reactor seems to work best for me. I really like the Phosban and the two little fishes reactor. I how this is somewhat helpful. Good luck. If you don't have signs that something is wrong....I don't go looking.
 
Thanks for the help guys I'll be defiantly following all he advice and defiantly will get a Hannah checker and reactor
 
Thanks for the replies. All advice is welcomed. I ordered a bottle of the Seaklear just in case something goes askew with the tank. I have tested my RODI water in the past and it is clear of phosphates, but since I have a pool I tested the tap water and found a .5 value from a Salifert kit. I think I will use it on my pool also.
 
I have kind of come to the realization that phosphate testing is highly overrated lol. If you have nuisance algae, you have phosphates....if you don't have algae, your phosphates are "probably" under control. If you test and show 0 phosphates, people tell you it is because your algae is consuming the phosphates. So to sum up, the only time it makes sense to test for phosphates is to confirm that your nuisance algae is in fact being caused by excessive phosphates...which you already knew anyways :-)

This.

If you do not have bad algae and your corals are doing fine…do not mess with anything.
 
I wouldn't really bother with that one - go for the HI736 ULR which is 2.6x more accurate (it has an error rate of 0.015ppm as opposed to 0.04ppm) for exactly the same price...

is testing for phosphates, and testing for phosphorus the same thing? are they the same element? or are you testing for 2 different elements in the water that are relatable? am really interested because I also am on the cusp of buying a hanna for phosphates. seems I just found out that my red sea phosphate test kit was reading .08 no matter what I did. then I found out it was reading .08 NO MATTER WHAT I TESTED.. old saltwater, new saltwater, RO water, tap water. water from the fish store... all .08.... anyway, getting back to my initial questions. please help, and share your experience. it would be greatly appreciated. thanks
 
is testing for phosphates, and testing for phosphorus the same thing?


In a nutshell, they are testing for the same thing. The Phosphorus meter tests in a much lower range. It does depend on your exact needs, but I do recommend the phosphorus meter to most people.

-Matt
 

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