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Yup. One hole in each. Corner overflows and the existing holes are right dead center. No room to drill more even if I wanted to. No return bulkhead.Because the drains are individual overflow boxes, you cannot do a herbie/bean animal drain, just a durso or maggie muffler to silence. You do not ever want to throttle a single drain, one lost snail shell, clump of algae, even just algal growth, will cause your tank to flood over.
You could utilize the return holes as second drains and send your plumbing up the back, but I feel that's less ideal.
Oop, went back a relooked at your drawing, so each box only has one hole and no return bulkhead?
Sort of. The “T” portion isn’t glued together, so in theory I can adjust it up about 1”. Not down. No idea how one would accomplish that.Yup, you’re not a moron. Members like myself are just sharing knowledge. Are your durso drains adjustable up and down (height)
They offer less flow resistance over other valve designs at the same pressure. Because of their design they are directional. Way overkill but I like them.Agree 100% with the advice given re: valves on your drains. Depending on whether or not your return pump is adjustable, you could add a valve there.
@Sean Clark , what's special about the y-design valves?
I am getting lost in the terminology however if you have your drain / drains set up for anti siphon there is no real need, as long as you can prime the pump after working in the sump. I have various valves put in that I will eventually use with unions. EG> will have to change the pump in the future. Also I do have a shutoff on my drain even though I have anti siphonMaybe I am just a moron who knows nothing (which the more progress I attempt to make, the more I am realizing this is likely the case). I would’ve sworn I read something about needing valves to moderate flow rates or some such thing.
Fortunately still at the stage nothing is glued together, so easy enough to eliminate them entirely.
In the overflow box you don't have to glue anything anyway. To make the pipe taller you can a) buy an adapter to fit another pipe or b) replace the pipe with a longer one.Sort of. The “T” portion isn’t glued together, so in theory I can adjust it up about 1”. Not down. No idea how one would accomplish that.
The Y design valve is actually a Gate valve made specifically for flow controlAgree 100% with the advice given re: valves on your drains. Depending on whether or not your return pump is adjustable, you could add a valve there.
@Sean Clark , what's special about the y-design valves?
If that’s the case then valves on the drains aren’t necessary, and if installed they must always stay open. I’ve been seeing a rise of hobbyists adding valves to drains because they see it on bean animal or herbie style drains, but it’s a cardinal rule to never throttle single drain systems. My full time job is designing and installing custom aquariums and filter rooms, so my specialty is not flooding peoples homes and businesses lolYup. One hole in each. Corner overflows and the existing holes are right dead center. No room to drill more even if I wanted to. No return bulkhead.
That is a cool career I bought an Apogee meter and am considering following you people around, and setting up the lights lol. Seriously have been trying to figure out how to grow Cheano ( i know not correct spelling ) I tried in sump just get a green algae mess, and dead Chanoe. Where and how do you find it best to grow it?If that’s the case then valves on the drains aren’t necessary, and if installed they must always stay open. I’ve been seeing a rise of hobbyists adding valves to drains because they see it on bean animal or herbie style drains, but it’s a cardinal rule to never throttle single drain systems. My full time job is designing and installing custom aquariums and filter rooms, so my specialty is not flooding peoples homes and businesses lol

