Plumbing uv help.
- Thread starter svester
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AJsReef
Valuable Member
The 90w is rated at 650 gallons, I’m assuming your total volume is probably around 250.
2800/650=4.31 suggested turn over, 4.31x250 would mean you should push 1077 GPH for the max recommended flow at 30000 μW/cm2 (algae/bacteria).
I couldn’t find a chart with Protozoa rating published by Lifeguard. Making assumptions you’d want something in the 180000μW/cm2 range. Which would have you running the 55w 1/6th of recommended GPH or 350 GPH.
Which theoretically nets you coverage for both common types of UV installation. At a total return rate of around 1,425 GPH or almost 6x turnover. The 350 GPH pump will be easy but you may have difficulty pushing 1077 through a UV depending on head pressure and restrictions. These manufacturers engineer units with pools and ponds in mind where 2-3” plumbing and no head is the norm. Much easier to hit the flow rates.
Another thing to think about, I’m not sure what your tank temp is usually at. In just running my 80w UV 24/7 I gained a whole degree on my bottom end. So an additional 145 watts over 24 hours may push your temps relatively high.
2800/650=4.31 suggested turn over, 4.31x250 would mean you should push 1077 GPH for the max recommended flow at 30000 μW/cm2 (algae/bacteria).
I couldn’t find a chart with Protozoa rating published by Lifeguard. Making assumptions you’d want something in the 180000μW/cm2 range. Which would have you running the 55w 1/6th of recommended GPH or 350 GPH.
Which theoretically nets you coverage for both common types of UV installation. At a total return rate of around 1,425 GPH or almost 6x turnover. The 350 GPH pump will be easy but you may have difficulty pushing 1077 through a UV depending on head pressure and restrictions. These manufacturers engineer units with pools and ponds in mind where 2-3” plumbing and no head is the norm. Much easier to hit the flow rates.
Another thing to think about, I’m not sure what your tank temp is usually at. In just running my 80w UV 24/7 I gained a whole degree on my bottom end. So an additional 145 watts over 24 hours may push your temps relatively high.
defasum
Community Member
Are you not going to end up with air traps in the UV chamber? I had this problem when I installed mine horizontally. I had to change it to vertical with the input on the bottom so the air pockets get pushed out.
AJsReef
Valuable Member
Assuming the inlet/outlet are facing up the water flow clears all air from the pipe. It’s only an issue if they are facing downward as the uv body would become the highest point.
AJsReef
Valuable Member
Looking good! Where the top union connects to your bulkheads do you still have a straight run for a few inches? Ideally you want 5” of straight pipe on either end of your flow sensor
Sean Clark
7500 Club Member
Tripple check that you will have access and enough room to pull the bulb out with the UV installed where ever it is going to be to make service easy.
Speaking from experience here. ;Facepalm;Eggonface
Speaking from experience here. ;Facepalm;Eggonface
Sean Clark
7500 Club Member
Yes you could use a COR pump and Apex to do that. My thoughts is that hopefully you are only trying to fix one thing at a time. So I adjust the flow to suit the problem. 99% of the time I am running it slower.
DopamineKata
Beltalowda
Isn't the flow for UV just based on what you're trying to kill? Tank size should be irrelevant.
AJsReef
Valuable Member
No, flow is based on desired contact time (exposure) in μW/cm2. Tank size is certainly relevant.
If a unit is rated for a 650 gallon system and needs 2800 GPH to get the correct exposure. A closed system that has less volume would have greater exposure at the same flow. In other words, you calculate the rated turnover for the the desired contact time and work backwards as above.
