Omegareefer0
Active Member
What is the easiest way to figure out what parts and of how many to buy from lowes before you go. Is it mostly guessing or is there a program or easy way to keep track of which parts you need to buy. Thanks for any help.
Plumbing
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kschweer
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I will usually take a good look under the tank with a good idea of what I want to do and how and where I want things to be placed. I'll take a piece of paper and draw it out and see what parts I will need ie: 90's, 45's, unions and go from there. It's always a good idea to pick up a few extra parts for any changes you may make while plumbing.
Omegareefer0
Active Member
Thanks thats helpful, I have already begun drawing it out. However, I need to get the stand built first for sure.
saltyphish
Certified Sand Groomer
Also dry fit everything before gluing. Learned that one the hard way.
Martyd
Active Member
I also use a permanent marker to mark the parts once they are dry fitted. That way it easy to get the correct orientation when gluing.
Omegareefer0
Active Member
Lots of great suggestions and replies thanks so much guys. This is my first saltwater tank. I have a 38 g fw tank but its a hob filter so this is my first experience with plumbing a sump. Should be fun though!
Omegareefer0
Active Member
Anyone know how to work this skimmer? It says AETECH on the collection lid. Cant find this one on the interwebs.
maroun.c
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+1 on drawing yourplumbing and what I do is while drawing I start a sheet with each new part I draw and start adding numbers with each added part. In average it took me 2-3 trips to the plumbing store for each of my tanks and I always endup with extra plumbing parts 
Sorry can't help with that skimmer.
Sorry can't help with that skimmer.
Omegareefer0
Active Member
+1 on drawing yourplumbing and what I do is while drawing I start a sheet with each new part I draw and start adding numbers with each added part. In average it took me 2-3 trips to the plumbing store for each of my tanks and I always endup with extra plumbing parts
Sorry can't help with that skimmer.
Great idea, my schematic page is a bloody mess. Thank you!
kschweer
Moderator
Anyone know how to work this skimmer? It says AETECH on the collection lid. Cant find this one on the interwebs.
Pretty sure ae tech is the company that made the etss skimmers. Maybe try searching that for more info.
Omegareefer0
Active Member
I had looked into them but all the etss skimmers had more pieces than this one has.
mrjlopez731
Active Member
I pretty much did the same like you did but a bit different, first I took my time and build my own sump. Made sure there was enough room for the sump and reserved water container inside my cabinet. I looked under the tank cabinet and placed my sump inside and made a mind image of how to go about it and started to draw it. Went and got the parts I needed. One thing about mine is I didn't just want all hard plumbing. I had a mix of flexible tubing as well. Added extra unions for easier cleaning and easier to take apart if needed to. I tried my best to not add that many turns due to it does slow down water flow. Increased my retune pump with more power for stronger water flow inside the tank.
Omegareefer0
Active Member
Got any pictures or a build thread or anything? I was thinking of doing the same. Did you use nylon hose and barbs or flexible PVC and fittings.
I sketch it out usually. Then make or try to make one stop at Lowes/Home Depot for regular plumbing parts. SCH40 parts are more then enough and get my gate valves at Ace Hardware. Buy more, MORE of everything you will need. Return the rest later or save them for spares.
Dry fit and push the pipes in snug. I don't use any primer, just add the cement on and rotate it while pushing in. This creates an even bead of cement on the two pieces. Haven't had a since leak since using this method. It seals it not only on the outside but the inside as well. Unions are a big deal for me, maybe more then I need but a safe bet when any servicing is needed.
Online orders... your own your own. Shipping is a pain
Dry fit and push the pipes in snug. I don't use any primer, just add the cement on and rotate it while pushing in. This creates an even bead of cement on the two pieces. Haven't had a since leak since using this method. It seals it not only on the outside but the inside as well. Unions are a big deal for me, maybe more then I need but a safe bet when any servicing is needed.
Online orders... your own your own. Shipping is a pain
mrjlopez731
Active Member
I used nylon hose, it's stronger but still gives you that flexibility needed. Sorry I don't have any pictures at this moment but I will need to follow up with those to show what I mean for the future. All the nylon hose are heading inside the sump or exiting the sump. That was done in case I needed to move those part at a short and quick notice time. I also placed cut off valves entering the sump and exiting as well. When it comes to water and not having a flood in your home, you just need a back up plan B for just in case. I will work on getting a thread up to better explain my connections going forward. I think it will help with another option to have a mix of PVC and nylon hose. Thanks in advance for the idea.
Omegareefer0
Active Member
Yeh online seems like a pain. I got bulkheads and that's about it just cuz they don't sell em anywhere cheap near me. 9$ is cheapest LFS bulkhead around. I went and played with fittings and bought some today at Lowes. But imma have to return almost all of it. I figure I'm gonna get it dry fitted then add unions around moving parts... sounds smart to me.
If I go nylon PVC mix not sure how to secure the things like gate valves and such. Don't want them just hanging. I think they make some straps though. What are pros/cons for using PVC vs blended plumbing. I assume pros to hose are easier to put together no need for unions (cheaper) and cons would be algae growth in the hoses. But what other issues have you ran into? I'm sure this will all be answered when you start your thread. (Keep me posted on that when you do get around to it.)
Also, more advice if you have the room to work with. Use threaded stuff like gate valves, higher end check valves and unions so they can be reused. In the case of something not fitting it's always cheaper to replace an adaptor from slipXthread. I've got my build thread in my signature if you need ideas for plumbing. I've gone a bit to the deep end. LOL
Hard plumb as much as possible if you know it won't be moving. I would only use hose where needed and that would really be in tight areas and from the pump to PVC for vibration and noise reduction.
Fin
Professional Procrastinator
One other tip for you... When I plan my plumbing and get to the point of dry fitting, I mark the orientation of each joint with painter's tape and number them, so they can be reassembled exactly as they were when they are taken apart. I also use the tape to mark how far the pipe goes into the fitting (not shown), instead of using a marker. Once the joint is assembled, just pull off the tape and there are no Sharpie marks visible.
I would also recommend using CLEAR primer. You will avoid all of the messy purple stains all over your plumbing.
If you want a custom look, which many people do now, you can buy colored PVC - or you can paint them with Krylon Fusion after the sections are assembled. This is one section of my sump plumbing that was painted gloss black.
(Pay no attention to the SCWD in the picture. That was just laying in the sump and was not used on this project.)
I would also recommend using CLEAR primer. You will avoid all of the messy purple stains all over your plumbing.
If you want a custom look, which many people do now, you can buy colored PVC - or you can paint them with Krylon Fusion after the sections are assembled. This is one section of my sump plumbing that was painted gloss black.
(Pay no attention to the SCWD in the picture. That was just laying in the sump and was not used on this project.)
