Pocillopora permanently bleached skeleton, great PE

[Max Rackstraw]

That is definitely from low light. Is it off to the side away from the light? Is something shading it? When polyps are out but you can see skelly that is from not enough light.

Yeah its to the front off to the side really. Im more worried about giving these corals too much light. I thought it would go brown for too little light though?

 

[sfin52]

Alright thank you, i will take a look at the nitrate and phosphate diy dosing.

I am an icp test enjoyer too, i like knowing all the parameters are in check. Maybe im due another one. I did one a few months ago for figuring out why i had cyano (unfortunately it didnt tell me anything was off, it all looked good, N and P where also zero at the time). It only went away with the addition of a skimmer.

Zero n and p will cause cyano and possible dinos.

Remember the Zooxanthellae is a dino and needs nutrients to feed the coral. Keeping it at or just above zero can starve the Zooxanthellae causing pale color.

I would give it more light by moving up the rock. If you do, do it slowly

 

[Max Rackstraw]

Zero n and p will cause cyano and possible dinos.

Remember the Zooxanthellae is a dino and needs nutrients to feed the coral. Keeping it at or just above zero can starve the Zooxanthellae causing pale color.

I would give it more light by moving up the rock. If you do, do it slowly

Yeah as I understand, this is the most modern consensus on dinos and cyano… seems interesting that the dinos/cyano i had at one point only went away when i added a skimmer… something that lowers these values of nitrate and phosphate further… seems like they were consuming something else, because the skimmer does pull out some crap.

I am still very interested in increasing these numbers though, as I do understand that too low N and P and starve zooxanthellae. Ill see what i can do with the manual dosing.

 

[Seansea]

I find most of the time i just put the coral where it is gonna go permanantly. It make not like it for a month or so then it will get adjusted and take off. This coral likes alot of light.

 

[X-37B]

Don’t have access to a par meter, but its in the bottom quarter of the tank with an ai prime 16hd 9 inches above the water surface with this schedule:

I ran 2 16hds on my 18" nano cube. I ran over 100% but lens melted after a few months.
I settled on first 4 at 100% and the rest at 50%. I had no problem growing anything at any depth.
Can we get a FTS?
Feed more or dose to bring no3 to <5 and po4 to <.1.
Without a par meter its hard to tell where you are at. How did you decide on those settings?
Also 1hr ramp up/down and 10hrs peak.
Said system.

 

[sfin52]

Yeah as I understand, this is the most modern consensus on dinos and cyano… seems interesting that the dinos/cyano i had at one point only went away when i added a skimmer… something that lowers these values of nitrate and phosphate further… seems like they were consuming something else, because the skimmer does pull out some crap.

I am still very interested in increasing these numbers though, as I do understand that too low N and P and starve zooxanthellae. Ill see what i can do with the manual dosing.

Skimmer doesn't remove the p and n it does remove the bacteria that eats them. It does pull waste and other organics that may turn into p and n.

 

[Max Rackstraw]

I ran 2 16hds on my 18" nano cube. I ran over 100% but lens melted after a few months.
I settled on first 4 at 100% and the rest at 50%. I had no problem growing anything at any depth.
Can we get a FTS?
Feed more or dose to bring no3 to <5 and po4 to <.1.
Without a par meter its hard to tell where you are at. How did you decide on those settings?
Also 1hr ramp up/down and 10hrs peak.
Said system.

Nice tank, seen yours before I believe!

I settled on those settings because i saw the brs video when they analysed the prime 16hd and to get suitable par for sps i got the impression it needs to be ran very high. Plus others said the same. The exact balance of white and blue is pretty much just what i liked the look of, and its very close to other settings ive seen used. No green and red to avoid hair algae growth since i had a problem with that (Sort of still do, the algae just isnt long anymore).

The lens did get burnt but i replaced it a few months ago and its still looking good right now. I will replace it again if it gets burnt again.

I will get a full tank shot tomorrow. Lights are off and its about time i go to sleep right now.

 

[Dburr1014]

You may not want to hear this but you should count your blessings. If that thing comes back it's going to spawn all over your tank and then you're going to wish you never put it in.

But if you raise it up some that can probably take a lot of light, if you really want to grow it.

 

[The_Paradox]

Would you suggest this coral get moved up higher? Intensity increase? Photoperiod increase?

Least stressing would be increase photo period. Other than colour it looks healthy.

 

[Joekovar]

While a different genus, my stylophora is in the same family and that's exactly what the undersides of the branches, and the branches that are shaded by higher branches looked like before I fragged a lot of it out.

If you can't draw a straight line between that coral and the light emitting element(s) of your lamp without hitting something, I don't think it's getting enough light.

Seeing the glass so close, and a tall rock in the direction the lights probably coming from makes me lean way towards low light.

 

[fushi]

I find most of my corals get brown with too little light and white with not enough nutrients. But you can always bring it up in the tank a little and see what happens, if it gets worse its easy to bring it back down.

But I would still work on the algae as knocking it back will allow for more detectable N&P which will color up all your corals. You defiantly have N & P in your tank but it sounds like the algae is sucking it all up so I still think knocking it back would be my priority.

 

[Spare time]

I would raise nitrates and phosphates, keep them at a 10:1 (N,P) ratio.
Undetectable nutrients will cause pale corals.
Whats it look like under white light?

The ratio is irrelevant

 

[Spare time]

The 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate are most likely to blame

 

[The_Paradox]

The 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate are most likely to blame

All the cool kids roll nil

 

[Roatan Reef]

You may not want to hear this but you should count your blessings. If that thing comes back it's going to spawn all over your tank and then you're going to wish you never put it in.

But if you raise it up some that can probably take a lot of light, if you really want to grow it.

 

[Max Rackstraw]

The 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate are most likely to blame

I do think this is the case personally. But i dont have experience with these things, i just know the theory. Unfortunately theory and experience are completely different things in reefkeeping!

 

[Max Rackstraw]

Yeah yeah I know these things throw babies everywhere… it had actually already done it! I dont have any places i can trade this coral in really though, and im not just going to let it die or anything. But ill look into maybe fragging it off its encrusted base on the rock and taking it to a fish shop… because this is an sps nano and space is going to be tight

 

[Max Rackstraw]

All the cool kids roll nil

It can be done, although im not really experienced enough yet to read my coral and know if theyre suffering due to any low nutrient related issues.

 

[Max Rackstraw]

I know the picture is terribly blue, but this is all i could get this morning. I have circled where the coral in question is.

As you can see, it is off to the side but near middle, but i would say i can draw a straight line to the light.

 

[Dburr1014]

im not just going to let it die

LOL, you don't just "let them die".
You have to try really hard to kill these coral.