Potter's Wrasse Trio incoming

[KJoFan]

A trio of Potter's wrasses are headed my way straight from Hawaii. I know, typical preference with Leopard wrasses is to purchase locally, but that just wasn't going to happen. So, here we go.

I'm told they're in peak health and accepting frozen mysis with the vendor.

I also know wrasses in general can be hard to acclimate and damage, especially to the mouths, can happen in shipping. That part is out of my control.

But, once they arrive, should I acclimate, or straight into the tank? I can put them in a QT/frag tank (if I add a container of sand), or I can go straight to the display. Which is better in this case?

Anything else I can or should do once they arrive to help them transition the best? I have had Leopard wrassees in the past with success, so I'm aware of their needs and behaviors. I promise not to freak out and dig for them if they bury themselves for a bit upon arrival.

 

[bsagea]

I did the "unthinkable" and put my potters directly into my DT. I had read several articles and "supposedly" it's best to avoid a QT tank if possible with leopards. My tankmaster inspected her very carefully to see if there were any exterior parasites. I spent several hours acclimating since the salinity upon arrival was 1.19. I have had my potters about 12 weeks now and knock on wood, she is doing great! Good luck with your new acquisitions!
bsa

 

[eatbreakfast]

If they are eating mysis, I highly recommend qting them. Qt provides calm surroundings were they can get used to your lighting and feeding schedule.

Leopards also are frequently afflicted with internal parasites, so they can be treated for those.

Qting also allows for you to match water parameters of the qt to shipping water so that they can just be floated for temp and can avoid a lengthy acclimation period. The water they are shipped in will be loaded with ammonia, which can cause permanent damage to their gills during a lengthy acclimation. Whereas matching water chemistry can avoid any acclimation complications.

 

[KJoFan]

If they are eating mysis, I highly recommend qting them. Qt provides calm surroundings were they can get used to your lighting and feeding schedule.

Leopards also are frequently afflicted with internal parasites, so they can be treated for those.

Qting also allows for you to match water parameters of the qt to shipping water so that they can just be floated for temp and can avoid a lengthy acclimation period. The water they are shipped in will be loaded with ammonia, which can cause permanent damage to their gills during a lengthy acclimation. Whereas matching water chemistry can avoid any acclimation complications.

I do have some frags in the "QT" tank, but that's fine, if I need to treat, I'll treat with prazi, which should be fine either way. I can always move out the corals for the time being as well, if needed.

The ammonia situation is why I was unsure whether to acclimate or not. Seems like it can do more harm than good. I know adjustment to different water parameters can be stressful, but I'd rather they end up a little stressed than with ammonia damage. At least, that's my thought.

I've got a Kole Tang coming along as well, I suppose ideally I'd cram them all in the same QT tank (it's 25g) and observe the Kole for any signs of external parasites.

 

[KJoFan]

If they are eating mysis, I highly recommend qting them. Qt provides calm surroundings were they can get used to your lighting and feeding schedule.

Leopards also are frequently afflicted with internal parasites, so they can be treated for those.

Qting also allows for you to match water parameters of the qt to shipping water so that they can just be floated for temp and can avoid a lengthy acclimation period. The water they are shipped in will be loaded with ammonia, which can cause permanent damage to their gills during a lengthy acclimation. Whereas matching water chemistry can avoid any acclimation complications.

Salinity of QT is 1.025, salinity they're coming from is 1.024, but shipping water may be 1.022-023 I'm told. So, I should adjust salinity of QT tomorrow down a couple points to match as close as I can? Float for temp and then transfer to QT?

 

[Reefltx]

Good luck, these are one of the harder wrasse to keep for me. Took 4 tries before I got one that lasted longer than a month. Then, I crushed it by accident moving around my aqua scape.

 

[eatbreakfast]

Salinity of QT is 1.025, salinity they're coming from is 1.024, but shipping water may be 1.022-023 I'm told. So, I should adjust salinity of QT tomorrow down a couple points to match as close as I can? Float for temp and then transfer to QT?

1.022 is great for qt in that situation, as it's easier for fish to adjust to a lower salinity than a higher salinity.

 

[Cment]

I would QT the 3 of them together as mentioned before. All of my leopards and tamarins went through 2 rounds of prazi and 4 weeks of food with metro/focus once they started accepting frozen. Then TTM for possible ich even though rate is lower in these guys. Its also easier to feed heavy then do nice big water changes while they're sleeping in the sand at night to keep nutrients in check. Makes for a pretty easy QT process bc they don't freak out like many other fish while doing WC. I would even drop the QT SG to 1.020 just in case. That way you can just float to temp match and then get them in clean water ASAP.

 

[roberthu526]

I do have some frags in the "QT" tank, but that's fine, if I need to treat, I'll treat with prazi, which should be fine either way. I can always move out the corals for the time being as well, if needed.

The ammonia situation is why I was unsure whether to acclimate or not. Seems like it can do more harm than good. I know adjustment to different water parameters can be stressful, but I'd rather they end up a little stressed than with ammonia damage. At least, that's my thought.

I've got a Kole Tang coming along as well, I suppose ideally I'd cram them all in the same QT tank (it's 25g) and observe the Kole for any signs of external parasites.

Add some seachem prime right after you open the bag. It will eliminate the ammonia right away.

 

[eatbreakfast]

Add some seachem prime right after you open the bag. It will eliminate the ammonia right away.

But if there are medications in the shipping water can become toxic when prime is added. So if unsure of meds from supplier, I would recommend against that.

 

[Ocelaris]

I regret not getting multiple leopards at the out set, so God bless your 3. Beautiful fish, but probably out of my budget and level of stress to bring those three through quarantine. But definitely quarantine with prazi and metro/focus in the pellets. Black worms are great for my leopard. Good luck!

 

[KJoFan]

Thanks for all the great input. Now, I'm just waiting for them to arrive. The plan is lower salinity in the QT to 1.020 or so, and get them right in the tank. I'm going to pull sand from my display for them, as I have been wanting to remove some anyway. I'm going to shuffle the few corals in the QT back to the display for now, so they have full reign of the tank.

For now, I'm going to observe and let them settle before I hit them with any meds. The plan is for Prazi at this point. I don't have any live foods, like black worms etc but could pick something up if I think I need it on Saturday. For frozen I have LRS, PE frozen Mysis and frozen cyclopeeze. That's my current arsenal of foods, but as I said I can pick up something different on the weekend if I need it.

I've had the bio filter going for a while in the QT, but I will stick my ammonia badge on there just to monitor and make sure I keep up with water parameters.

 

[Cment]

Thanks for all the great input. Now, I'm just waiting for them to arrive. The plan is lower salinity in the QT to 1.020 or so, and get them right in the tank. I'm going to pull sand from my display for them, as I have been wanting to remove some anyway. I'm going to shuffle the few corals in the QT back to the display for now, so they have full reign of the tank.

For now, I'm going to observe and let them settle before I hit them with any meds. The plan is for Prazi at this point. I don't have any live foods, like black worms etc but could pick something up if I think I need it on Saturday. For frozen I have LRS, PE frozen Mysis and frozen cyclopeeze. That's my current arsenal of foods, but as I said I can pick up something different on the weekend if I need it.

I've had the bio filter going for a while in the QT, but I will stick my ammonia badge on there just to monitor and make sure I keep up with water parameters.

Solid plan. I definitely wait about a week or more before using meds. Only thing in your plan I would alter is getting the live black worms now and begin feeding immediately with smaller foods like cyclopeeze. I also add a bottle or 2 of Tisbe pods. I do this in case their schedule doesn’t immediately match yours and they’ll at least have some food to eat while you get them adjusted to your feeding schedule.

 

[KJoFan]

Solid plan. I definitely wait about a week or more before using meds. Only thing in your plan I would alter is getting the live black worms now and begin feeding immediately with smaller foods like cyclopeeze. I also add a bottle or 2 of Tisbe pods. I do this in case their schedule doesn’t immediately match yours and they’ll at least have some food to eat while you get them adjusted to your feeding schedule.

I really can't alter the food portion of the plan, as nearest place to get anything like those kinds of foods is 3+ hours away. No way I can make that trip until the weekend. So, will have to make do for a day or so.

 

[Ocelaris]

I really can't alter the food portion of the plan, as nearest place to get anything like those kinds of foods is 3+ hours away. No way I can make that trip until the weekend. So, will have to make do for a day or so.

Live Brine shrimp? Basically anything moving helps the process of them learning to eat what you give them. But with three, hope they figure it out together. If they figure out how to eat frozen, then that bypasses the live stage. Although black worms are like steak for fish.

 

[KJoFan]

Live Brine shrimp? Basically anything moving helps the process of them learning to eat what you give them. But with three, hope they figure it out together. If they figure out how to eat frozen, then that bypasses the live stage. Although black worms are like steak for fish.

They were eating frozen before shipping I’m told. So fingers crossed.

They’re in the tank and super active. Probably looking for that sand to hide in.

 

[Lidofishieboi]

NICE!!!

 

[USMC 4 LIFE]

They look great. One male (on the left) and two females right?

Where did you get them from?

 

[KJoFan]

They look great. One male (on the left) and two females right?

Where did you get them from?

You know, I'm not sure on sexes, I will have to take a closer look. You very well may be right. I need to read up on how to tell the difference. Care to school me on your assessment?

I got them from Zoacollector, a sponsor here. I am honestly amazed at the quality and condition the fish arrived in, awesome experience so far.

 

[USMC 4 LIFE]

I think I read a thread where @evolved mention and posted a pic of a male and female. And if I can recall correctly, I think the males are "bluer" and have more "dot like patterns" on their faces whereas females are consistently orange from head to tail.