Potter's Wrasse Trio incoming

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They were still out and about when I went to check on them, so I thawed a cube of PE frozen mysis and dropped just a few in. At least two went for it and ate. The other was kind of oblivious, though is picking around at the bottom of the tank. I dropped in a few more and left it at that.

Went and changed out my DI resin and came back and all pieces were gone.

To be honest, the one looking the most stressed is the Kole Tang that came with them. :rolleyes:
 
I think I read a thread where @evolved mention and posted a pic of a male and female. And if I can recall correctly, I think the males are "bluer" and have more "dot like patterns" on their faces whereas females are consistently orange from head to tail.

I did try to take note, one definitely is more blue in the back half of the body, the other two faint blue on the bodies maybe, but majority orange.
 
Either way, all three look really great. It sounds as if you got three really great fish if they're eating frozen mysis already.
 
typical preference with Leopard wrasses is to purchase locally, but that just wasn't going to happen.
Eh, I could make an argument either way. A lot depends on the vendor their coming from.
I had read several articles and "supposedly" it's best to avoid a QT tank if possible with leopards.
I'll adamantly disagree with all of them. :)
rather they end up a little stressed than with ammonia damage
Agree, but it's real easy to match QT water to the shipping water salinity.
I really can't alter the food portion of the plan, as nearest place to get anything like those kinds of foods is 3+ hours away. No way I can make that trip until the weekend. So, will have to make do for a day or so. :)
It's moot now, but I feel what you have on hand will do fine if they were eating frozen before shipping.
Probably looking for that sand to hide in.
And they might take a day or two to find it - no worries.
They look great. One male (on the left) and two females right?
I'd need better pictures, but if anything that's possibly a transitional male on the right. The one on the left is certainly female.
I think I read a thread where @evolved mention and posted a pic of a male and female. And if I can recall correctly, I think the males are "bluer" and have more "dot like patterns" on their faces whereas females are consistently orange from head to tail.
You've got it backwards. :P
Scroll down on this post a ways here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...ale-wrasses-female.243113/page-2#post-2853976
 
Well, I lowered salinity to about 1.021. After speaking with the vendor, he suggested 1.024 is better. But, it’s done now. I can work on bringing t up slowly as we go along here.

Like I said somewhere above, two of three for sure at a couple frozen mysis already so I consider that a good sign.

I’ll try to get better pics soon. One is definitely more blue than the rest, one is kind of in between and one even less than the other two as far as coloring goes.

It was also suggested to me to try a half dose of Furan 2 for the gram negative bacteria surely present in the system.

I can get some this weekend if it’s a good idea.
 
Wow, super jealous. I had a Trio of Leopard Wrasses for years, they were by far my favorite fish ever. I got mine straight from DiversDen, which I believe QTs the fish there. They were eating mysis already also. Eventually eating pellets, flakes, Nori, anything I threw in there. I think QTing can sometimes be even more stress for them.
 
But if there are medications in the shipping water can become toxic when prime is added. So if unsure of meds from supplier, I would recommend against that.

Yeah I didn't think of that. I have not encountered any online seller shipping live fish with meds in the water though. They usually just inject oxygen in the bag. So I have always used prime with no issue.
 
Yeah I didn't think of that. I have not encountered any online seller shipping live fish with meds in the water though. They usually just inject oxygen in the bag. So I have always used prime with no issue.
I think it's usually that stores use different kinds of copper, and some versions are toxic with ammonia neutralizers. Not meds per se, but a lot run lower than therapeutic levels.
 
Ok, so two questions going forward:

Should I give the 1/2 dose Furan 2 a try for the bio/bacterial filter? Promote the positive bacteria and slow the negative?

How soon should I work on upping the salinity and how best to do it so it's gradual?

I was gone this evening from about 6-9 and checked the tank right away when I got home and all three were nowhere to be seen. Gone to bed I'm guessing, snug in their sandbox. ;Smug
 
Should I give the 1/2 dose Furan 2 a try for the bio/bacterial filter?
It won't hurt anything, if you wish to do such.
How soon should I work on upping the salinity and how best to do it so it's gradual?
Don't top off the tank (or do such with saltwater) for a few days. Or you can do a small water change with water of higher salinity. Bumping it up no more than 0.002 in S.G. per day is pretty safe.
I was gone this evening from about 6-9 and checked the tank right away when I got home and all three were nowhere to be seen.
Bear in mind the clock just advanced 5 hours fwd on them; they will take a few days to adjust to that.
 
Karen,

First of all , amazing haul and that too from Collin who probably provides the best in class fishes in the industry. I got my randalls and charlenae anthias from him and they were eating frozen and live brineshrimps from day 1. That's a great feat in my opinion especially with finicky anthias.

Secondly, I have struggled in the past with quickly setup quarantine system and gram negative bacterial infections especially with butterflies and wild angels. After successfully killing 2 copperbands and a costly marginalis, this time I was able to quarantine a copperband fully (fingers crossed) against bacterial infections with the help of Nitrofuracin Green

http://store.nationalfishpharm.com/NFP-products-Nitrofuracin-Green-59584.Item.html

This is probably the most effective medicine against gram negative bacterial infections , even advanced cases .

Second option is to have Furan 2 + kanaplex + metroplex in case of infections arrive.

Both of these are suggested by the most knowledgable quarantine master @Humblefish .. So credit goes to him .

If it were me, I would just give the leopards a bath in Nitrofuracin Green for 60-90 mins and then observe. Nitrofuracin Green costs a lot but you will thank me if , God forbid, you have to encounter bacterial infections.

Lastly, quarantine is must and if it were me , I would make sure that they are eating and then do 2 rounds of prazi with 5 - 7 days gap and then go straight to copper. Some will say that may be macropharyngodon species will be sensitive to copper but I have one and it did fine with copper treatment.

Regards,
Abhishek
 
It won't hurt anything, if you wish to do such.
Obviously at this point there is no actual infection. Just was suggested perhaps to knock back the gram negative bacteria it couldn't hurt. I'll see if I remember to pick some up this weekend.

Don't top off the tank (or do such with saltwater) for a few days. Or you can do a small water change with water of higher salinity. Bumping it up no more than 0.002 in S.G. per day is pretty safe.
Ahh, good idea. Simple and it escaped me. I'll turn off the ATO or top up with saltwater most likely. The return section of the tank is small, so will need a top off of some kind daily.

Bear in mind the clock just advanced 5 hours fwd on them; they will take a few days to adjust to that.
Absolutely. I was told they went to bed around 7 or so each night local time, which wouldn't be until midnight here. They had found the sand by 9 pm my time last night and weren't up yet at 7 this morning. I'm not too worried about the adjustment, but glad to see they have some kind of "routine".

As for the Kole Tang, it's skittish but ok. I did add an air stone about 2" below the water surface as it seemed to have rapid breathing. Maybe just stress, but I thought it couldn't hurt to add a bit more agitation to the tank to increase the O2 levels.
 
Alright, quick update. So far, so good. Two of three are up mid/late morning and in bed later in the evening, 9ish. I didn't see the third one yesterday or today so far. I'm not that worried, but do find it sort odd, two come out and one hasn't since the first day.

I've been trying to offer food a couple times a day, but not large amounts at a time. For every piece they eat, they spit out 2-3 pieces. They do seem interested though at feeding time.

I'm bringing salinity up by topping off with some saltwater, they don't even seem to notice.

I was going to try to get some Furan 2, but couldn't find any yesterday and ended up with Bi-Furan. Ok to use or not? It's been so long since I've used any meds I'm not sure Bi-Furan existed back then.

I'm hoping to do a bit of a water change later today, ammonia badge is reading 0 so far.

My next question is when do I start treating for parasites using PraziPro? Should I give them more time to settle in, or start?
 
Alright, quick update. So far, so good. Two of three are up mid/late morning and in bed later in the evening, 9ish. I didn't see the third one yesterday or today so far. I'm not that worried, but do find it sort odd, two come out and one hasn't since the first day.

I've been trying to offer food a couple times a day, but not large amounts at a time. For every piece they eat, they spit out 2-3 pieces. They do seem interested though at feeding time.

I'm bringing salinity up by topping off with some saltwater, they don't even seem to notice.

I was going to try to get some Furan 2, but couldn't find any yesterday and ended up with Bi-Furan. Ok to use or not? It's been so long since I've used any meds I'm not sure Bi-Furan existed back then.

I'm hoping to do a bit of a water change later today, ammonia badge is reading 0 so far.

My next question is when do I start treating for parasites using PraziPro? Should I give them more time to settle in, or start?

I would make sure that they are eating well before dosing prazi . Prazi will cause them to loose appetite . Generally I hold off for atleast a week before dosing prazi .

In the mean time , I would make sure that they eat . Do you have brine shrimps eggs that you can hatch ?

Regards,
Abhishek
 
I would concentrate on getting them to eat first along with watching out for bacterial infections. The reason being is that these bacterial infections are difficult to overcome even if you catch it early on (my experience). Additionally, they will succumb to infections even quicker if they aren't eating and fail to have the strength to fight it off.

Plus, flukes are not likely to kill the wrasses that quickly.

PS you may be able to mix the meds with no adverse effects (appetite suppression) but I'm not sure. Researching it myself as i am also QTing 2 female potters wrasses as well
 
I'll hold off on any meds for now. I wasn't in a rush, just wondering the timeline. All three are out now, one must just be a late sleeper :)

I tried some frozen mysis and they all were interested and sampled some. They didn't destroy it by any means, but one step at a time. :)
 
Also I tried to look closer at the gill patterns. The one with the most blue, has the more broken lines, so I would say very likely female.

The other two lack the blue and have more solid lines.
 
I'll hold off on any meds for now. I wasn't in a rush, just wondering the timeline. All three are out now, one must just be a late sleeper :)

I tried some frozen mysis and they all were interested and sampled some. They didn't destroy it by any means, but one step at a time. :)

If you haven't tried it already you can soak their food in garlic guard for 5 minutes and/or pour the food infront of a powerhead so it entices them.
 

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