problem with Phosphates

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I'm having a problem with diatoms on my glass and sand. my phosphate are getting worse. I feed once per day and the food is eaten in a few minutes. I was going to go bare bottom but I don't know if the sand is the problem. it's Caribsea. tank is two years old and I can't stand the diatoms. I don't have a sump and don't really want to add a reactor as it would have to in the dt. will running gfo in a canister help if it's the only media in the filter? phosphate went from 0.5 to 2.0 recently. I just don't know whats causing it to raise. I use only RO/DI and not tap. tds is 0.
 
You sure you mean 2 ppm? Some kits cannot even read that high.

How often are you replacing the GFO?

It certainly can bring down phosphate if you use enough and change it often enough.

FWIW, in terms of feeding, and in spite of what many people think, it doesn't really matter if fish eat it or not. All (or nearly all) of the phosphate in it ends up in the water as phosphate.
 
What food are you feeding?
Might want to change it.
Po4 is introduced as soon as it leaves your fingers.
 
I'm not using any gfo. I'm asking if it would help with a canister. how much do I use for a 120 gal.? I have the API test and the color card goes from 0.0 to 10.0 I feed mostly frozen brine, Mysis, reef cuisine, mixed with flake, and freezedried blackworms. if food causes that much phosphate, how does anyone keep their tank clean? I know everyone doesn't use reactors.
 
I'm not using any gfo. I'm asking if it would help with a canister. how much do I use for a 120 gal.? I have the API test and the color card goes from 0.0 to 10.0 I feed mostly frozen brine, Mysis, reef cuisine, mixed with flake, and freezedried blackworms. if food causes that much phosphate, how does anyone keep their tank clean? I know everyone doesn't use reactors.
Oh my that is quite the mixture!
Po4 will be present for sure
All I feed my fish is nutridiet marine to my fish.
All that it increases is selenium
 
I don't feed all at the same time. usually one frozen cube with flake. just different kinds on different days.
 
I'm not using any gfo. I'm asking if it would help with a canister. how much do I use for a 120 gal.? I have the API test and the color card goes from 0.0 to 10.0 I feed mostly frozen brine, Mysis, reef cuisine, mixed with flake, and freezedried blackworms. if food causes that much phosphate, how does anyone keep their tank clean? I know everyone doesn't use reactors.

GFO will certainly help, yes, as can many other methods.
 
Without the chemical removal of the nutrients we add to the system (phosphates, nitrates, etc.) we must use biological or mechanical. Therefore, if you are not running a reactor and do not want to, the solution is a good bio filter (live rock, algae) and good maintenance such as lots of water changes, blowing off rock, vacuuming sand bed often.

A proper clean up crew is also helpful, but they also produce waste. It is a balance.

How deep is the sand? Careful stirring it up if you haven't before and it is over 1". Can cause major spikes.

If you remove the sandbed, remove a bit at a time with a hose as you are doing water changes. This gets gunk out and sand out at the same time. Took many many months to get my sandbed down when I decided to reduce it.
 
I like the look of sand so going bb is my last resort. I have 150 lbs. of live rock, a Reef Octopus hob skimmer and two jebao pumps. 15% wc's every other week. nitrates never over 5ppm. what I'm asking is will a canister running only gfo or some other phosphate remover have an affect or would it be a waste of time. I have a canister laying around that I use on occasion for running carbon whenever I frag my softies.
 
Scrubbers compared to GFO (granular ferric oxide):


GFO:

Absorbs phosphate.
Absorbs silicates.
Does not absorb ammonia/ammonium.
Does not absorb nitrate.
Does not absorb nitrite.
Does not absorb CO2.
Does not produce oxygen.
Does not produce pods.
Does not produce amino acids, vitamin C, or carbs.
Is a non-living chemical (iron).
Is expensive, and must continue to be replaced.
Needs some place to go (bag, reactor, etc).
Is dark brown.
If spilled into water is very hard to remove.
Animals cannot eat it.
Can lower phosphate too low, resulting in coral bleaching.
Have been reports of GFO causing HLLE disase in fish.
Capacity is reduce from first day, and continues dropping.
Does not provide any useful end product.
Heavy iron particles can clog your drain.
The iron can fuel nuisance algae growth.
Does not need light/electricity.

Algae Scrubbers:

Absorbs phosphate.
Does not absorbs silicates.
Absorbs ammonia/ammonium.
Absorbs nitrate.
Absorbs nitrite.
Absorbs CO2.
Produces oxygen.
Produces pods.
Produces amino acids, vitamin C, and carbs.
Is living, and growing.
Is free, and replaces itself.
Needs some place to go.
Is green or brown.
If spilled into water is easy to remove.
Animals eat it.
Cannot lower phosphate too low.
No reports of causing HLLE disase in fish.
Capacity increases from first day, as growth develops.
Provides useful end product (algae).
Very light particles go down drain easily, and dissolve.
Consumes iron.
Needs light/electricity (pennies per month).
 
Phosphates have nothing to do with diatoms. Diatoms feed off of silicates. Aside from running ROWAPHOS or GFO, I recommend Red Sea Phosphate/Nitrate Remover. My guess is, its brown algae if your phosphates are high.
 
Phosphates have nothing to do with diatoms. Diatoms feed off of silicates. Aside from running ROWAPHOS or GFO, I recommend Red Sea Phosphate/Nitrate Remover. My guess is, its brown algae if your phosphates are high.

While diatoms certainly do need silicate, and almost no other reef tank pests do, they do also need a source of nitrogen (such as nitrate) and phosphate. Their growth can be limited by limiting any of these (and more, such as iron). However, limiting silicate is usually the easiest way. :)

FWIW, I dose silicate for sponges and it clearly also boosts diatoms in my system. :)
 
I do run an UAS and will on every system I have. They have done wonders to my algae outbreaks and control of bad stuff (nitrates, phosphates, etc). I built mine at home in a couple minutes. While patience is necessary with these UAS, within a few months, you will see a huge difference. I have run cheato and had no luck with it. DSB, never liked it. Just rock and UAS now (besides the ps, ca rx, and carbon).
 
Still waiting for an answer. No it's not a good idea to run gfo in a canister. Reason is the gfo will turn to dust in too high a water flow. It should be tumbled gently to keep it loose and able to absorb phosphates. A simple reactor for gfo should reduce your phosphate to zero if you use enough and change it as needed. A good refusium of macro algae will also remove phosphates and nitrates at the same time.
 
As Harold said, GFO needs to lightly tumble to be effective. In a canister, not sure you can see the flow rate to make it work correctly. I think we all got off topic a bit :)
 

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