I dose alk, but think my problem was due to alk creeping up (like 8.5 or 8.7dkh) with undetectable N and P, that is why i am having this thread. My acros did not STN from the bottom but i got burned tips that kept spreading lower. That is why i think alk has something to do with it. I know people can have successful tanks with undetectable N and P, but WHAT ALK do they run?
"Low" is a very general term i think. When i say low N that means undetectable (totally clear) on Salifert. I read when you try to target a certain alk, zero nitrates is quite different compared to like Nitrates of 2 ppm.
thanks for the kind words. I dose alk during the day when consumption is high. FWIW i dose Soda Ash but only like 12 ml a day split over like 4 or 5 times. I have stopped dosing for several days as i am letting alk slide a bit, it was 8 like a few days ago today it was 7.3dkh (using Hanna).
Thanks, i understand that we are testing residual N and P. But with my export methods (non zeovit) my P could be like 3ppb of Hanna ULR Phosphorous! I feed a lot too but my fear is that if i do not feed the tank for a certain day or two due to any reason i will be like riding the edge (with very low ammonia and nutrients and high alk). That is why i am considering shooting for 7 dkh although that needs to be monitored a lot until i have it tuned in correctly.
This is my best suggestion to you. Run your Alk between 7-7.5. Natural Seawater Levels is king in my opinion. There are multiple ways to run a reef but in my experience the closer you are to the way the ocean is the better. Also for alkalinity once it falls to the desired range, dose evenly throughout the day. If you need 4 mL, dose 1 mL every 6 hours. If it’s 12 mL dose 1mL every other hour. Just keep the alkalinity stable the best you can. As for feeding, get yourself a feeding ring to make sure your pellets don’t get swept into the overflow and set the feeder to 4 times per day with two rotations each. You should never have to worry about your tank starving that way. Based off your video you are definitely not starving anything with the large fish and the way that gorgonian looked. Plus the algae on the rocks. I don’t think you will be riding the line that way. Also I would argue that 0ppm or 2ppm nitrate will be no different if it all comes from feeding vs dosing. Just run your alkalinity near NSW levels (7-7.5) and you will do well. That’s just my 2 cents.
Yes i monitored N and P. I only dosed till i get to 3 ppm N in like a week. I had like 0.03-0.04 P so i was advised by people here to raise it and i did raise it to 0.1 over like 10 days or so (lowering photo period on my scrubber) but that did not help either lol
Cool i was thinking 7-7.5 dkh as well to give myself a margin of safety. Most of my feeding is in the form of frozen though, i feed pellets but not the bulk. The bulk is frozen and nori and amino acids and reef roids. I think running very close to sea water is a bit tricky for PH maintenance purposes though. I think 7-7.5 is good so if my nitrates are like 2-5 it will be fine and if they go back to zero it is not a problem either and i will not get burnt tips.
You’re welcome. Pellets can be a great way to fill in the gaps of feeding. Also, pH can be managed in several ways including refugium s, CO2 scrubbers, opening windows, running an airline from skimmer outside etc. All are great options for boosting pH without doing anything that will mess with your alkalinity. Hope it all works out for you!
Cool, thanks re PH i have a decent ATS scrubber, but i have never measured PH for quite sometime lol
FWIW I think the ATS takes more CO2 from the air than the water so I don’t think they have a big impact on pH.
Thanks I heard running airline tubing for skimmer to outside doesnt do much either (not doable as I live in an apartment). That only leaves the co2 scrubber but they need monitoring for ph to tweak it, right?
Ii already mentioned it, I stopped dosing and letting it slide. It was 8 a few days ago and today was 7.3. Will let it slide for a day or two more then start dosing.
Well first Ill say you might not even have a pH issue. From my experience with running an airline it does work very well if you have a true CO2 issue. And with CO2 scrubbers you shouldn’t need to tweak it since it will only remove excess CO2 that is entering the skimmer. It’s worth looking in to your pH since it is important but if you don’t have a serious issue I would t do anything drastic.
