Pvc joint with small leak

Docdiggy

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I just got my 125 plumbed and transferred over all live stock. After running a couple hours I noticed some water at one of the joints. It's about a drip every 10 seconds. Is there anyway to seal it with out cutting it apart? I've been searching, but most threads seem to be leaking more than mine. I have a towel under it currently so it doesn't run down the concrete. After 8 hrs the towel was wet, but not soaked.
 
I just got my 125 plumbed and transferred over all live stock. After running a couple hours I noticed some water at one of the joints. It's about a drip every 10 seconds. Is there anyway to seal it with out cutting it apart? I've been searching, but most threads seem to be leaking more than mine. I have a towel under it currently so it doesn't run down the concrete. After 8 hrs the towel was wet, but not soaked.
Did you glue the fittings together or just press them together?
 
I've been able to silicone a small leak at a joint like that; you figure there is no pressure, only flow. You would need to stop the flow through that part, dry it really good, silicone it and let it cure for 24 hours before turning the flow back on.
 
Personally I would take apart and redo it. You could try putting some pvc glue near the leak and see if it will seal. You could try some of the many available repair epoxies or they also make pvc rings you glue between outside of pipe and joint to seal leaks. I think they are called Leak B Gone rings
 
I glued it with the blue rain/shine. I'd be willing to try the heat gun idea if that would actually make it come apart. Cutting it out is hard do to the space around it. I can send a pic when I get home. It's a pipe that runs along the ground then an elbow aiming upward with another pipe to dump water into a 55 gallon sump.
 
Here's an idea of what I'm talking about.
20180604_113741.jpg
 
Can you pre-build a whole new section and install it that way, or it would have to be assembled piece-by-piece there on the spot? Tight spots can be tricky since you need room to do the correct assembly movements to get the joints to set correctly.
 
That would be hard. It's a remote sump on the other side of the wall. So it needs to go through the wall and then run along the other side of the wall between the sump. Basically it's a big L. The sump can't be moved. Since I had to glue it in a tight spot is probably the reason its dripping. Seal not good enough.
 
Also, what scares me about cutting it to replace is all the water left in the pipe after I shut off the return pipe. Not sure how to clear it.
 
I glued it with the blue rain/shine. I'd be willing to try the heat gun idea if that would actually make it come apart. Cutting it out is hard do to the space around it. I can send a pic when I get home. It's a pipe that runs along the ground then an elbow aiming upward with another pipe to dump water into a 55 gallon sump.

You cannot heat glued and cured pvc joints with a heat gun and it will come apart. You can cut, heat with a torch, and pry fittings off, but Heating pvc also creates toxic fumes. This won’t work in your situation and no need for the overkill. Just cut it out and replace it. Or You can turn off flow, dry and marine silicone as someone mentioned.
 
You cannot heat glued and cured pvc joints with a heat gun and it will come apart. You can cut, heat with a torch, and pry fittings off, but Heating pvc also creates toxic fumes. This won’t work in your situation and no need for the overkill. Just cut it out and replace it. Or You can turn off flow, dry and marine silicone as someone mentioned.

I’ve have heated numerous joints in my sump and have glued with no problems
You need a heat gun.
 
One drop every ten seconds will fix itself in a day or two with the dry salt. That's how we often do it at work anyway :) But we don't have to be careful about the floor.

/ David
 
If you couldn't replace the whole section with hard pipe, you might try a section of flexible pvc to help you maneuver in a tight spot.
 

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