QT Tank Stabilization help!

Wow.. thank you for sharing that! I was fortunate that I came across this site before I ever purchased my first aquarium. Thanks in large part to Humble and Mel I had a QT and a fairly well stocked fish medicine cabinet before I purchased my first fish. I've lost a few fish in my QT system but thankfully everything that has made it into my DT has been healthy. I owe that largely to these two.
I feel bad that you had such a horrible experience in large part because of horrible advice. This forum is full of people who know better and still don't quarantine their new fish. :( While I acknowledge that some advanced aquarists can very successfully maintain an aquarium without using QT, that just isn't true for most of us. I'd love to see Humble's and Mel's work load on here go down because people were using better QT practices!

Oh, and I'm far from a coral expert, but I think your coral selection actually prefer slightly "dirty" water so having the nitrate and phosphate may not be a bad thing at all. Could be why they are doing so well!
 
@Jena Cooper I know I'm being nitpicky here, but I always use at least an Aquaclear 50 on a 20 gal QT which has a 200 gph flow rate.
 
@Jena Cooper I know I'm being nitpicky here, but I always use at least an Aquaclear 50 on a 20 gal QT which has a 200 gph flow rate.
I think you jumped brands. The Aqueon with 200 gpm is the Quietflow 30.

Do you think that could be the problem or do you only recommend oversizing like that because in an emergency you may need to put a larger than normal bio load on a QT?
 
I think you jumped brands. The Aqueon with 200 gpm is the Quietflow 30.

Do you think that could be the problem or do you only recommend oversizing like that because in an emergency you may need to put a larger than normal bio load on a QT?

I just like to run as much flow thru the bio-filter as possible, so long as its not too much flow for the fish.

More flow = more opportunities for nitrifying bacteria to break down ammonia.
 
Just a tip before you start copper treatment.Have the right copper test kit for the copper you'll use,before hand. And have plenty of extra salt/ saltwater. you'll need it.
 
@Humblefish @Brew12 - should I get the larger biofilter as stated, or add an sponge air filter like humblefish posted? or both? Going to check nitrates tonight.
I'm not a fan of the sponge filters but that is just a matter of personal preference. I like to be able to see the flow so I prefer HOB filters.

How are your nitrites doing? Have you gotten them to drop to zero yet?

If your ammonia and nitrites are showing zero I would hold off on replacing the HOB filter since it would need to get re-established. That would be an upgrade I would do prior to the next batch of fish. Unless you have room to use 2 HOB filters at the same time. My lid wont allow that on my QT.
If you decide to get a sponge filter instead, you can get that now and put it in the tank to supplement your current HOB filter.
If you are still fighting nitrites I would consider upgrading the HOB now since you would still be having filter issues.

How is that for a non answer? o_O
 
Gahhhh!!! Finally! Got some RO water from a friend because my system is not working right! But first got Aquaforest NP pro. This was the first day after using the new bacteria without a water change. Put it in again last night and did a water change. This morning the nitrites were down to .25 (forgot to take a pic). . Finally moving!!! I'll check nitrites and nitrates again tonight.
Saving for my new RO now. Will have to buy water until then. Once this starts moving I'll do copper after thanksgiving. Because they have not shown any signs of ich in almost 2 months, since being in QT, I'm almost afraid to treat them. Opinions?

The 2 fire fish never showed signs of it at all, the sailfin got it bad but healed before going into QT, and the fox face had a mild case.
If you think I should treat just to be sure, please tell me what copper you reccomend and what test. I already have the API copper test. And picked up "coppersafe" but I'm not sure if the compatibility.
Thanks for the help!

IMG_5103.JPG
 
I would definitely treat with copper. You are successfully managing your ich but it is still there.

And yes, coppersafe is what I use and the API test kit works with this type of copper.
 
@Jena Cooper As Meredith said, it sounds like your bio-filter isn't quite where it needs to be yet but the good news is you are getting close. :)

Just to be sure, you haven't started dosing copper or any other medications yet, have you? The presence of meds (especially copper) can throw off your test kit readings.
Can the presence of cupramine throw off nitrate readings?
 
Yes; it can affect any liquid test kit reading.
So is there a better test I can do, as my nitrates are reading between 80-160 ppm. I’ve changed more than 1/3 the water and it still stays high. I don’t want to introduce any new fish into my QT if nitrates are that high
 
So is there a better test I can do, as my nitrates are reading between 80-160 ppm. I’ve changed more than 1/3 the water and it still stays high. I don’t want to introduce any new fish into my QT if nitrates are that high

Fish aren't typically affected by nitrates until they reach levels much higher than that. However, a 50% WC would cut those in half. Unfortunately, no reliable testing for nitrates exist while medications are present in the water.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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