Rally and No Ich
- Thread starter Venzzla
- Start date
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HotRocks
Fish Fanatic!
It will not erradicate ich. It's very helpful in treatment because it has an antiseptic in it. So giving a velvet/ich infected fish a bath for 60-90 minutes prior to treatment can help prevent the entrance wounds from the parasites from becoming infected.
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Venzzla
Active Member
What exactly do you mean by bath? Also, am I wasting my time using this in the tank. I treated the whole tank since I wasn't 100% sure who else had this. I'm pretty sure my clownfish has it as well. I have no corals, but do have a few invertebrates. When you say it won't eradicate it, do you mean the fish won't get over this at all or it ick will still be in the tank but the fish itself will be fine?
Thanks
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Venzzla
Active Member
Yes I know that Rally isn't for Ich. I am treating Rally with their other product No Ich together. Hmm, sounds like I need to start thinking about use of copper of something else. Freshwater dips help as well?
HotRocks
Fish Fanatic!
Yes you will need copper, CP, Hypo, or TTM. Those are the tried and true methods for ich.
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Venzzla
Active Member
Can you buy CP at LFS? Isn't Hypo stressful to fish? I was reading about TTM sounds good but....my only dilemna now is do I treat whole tank instead of just the one fish? I see it on the clownfish as well I believe. So just not sure my best option here..Power outages suck. Tank was doing so well.
Florida Sunshine
Well-Known Member
I believe hypo is 1.009 but I would double check that. I know hypo is difficult because of evaporation and making sure the salinity never goes over the set point. IMO while it can be effective there are many places where treatment can go wrong and I wouldn't rely on hypo.
If you want to get ich out of your tank you will need to treat all of the fish whether showing symptoms or not while leaving the tank fallow for 76 days to be sure the parasite is completely gone. Depending on the fish, I would treat with either copper or CP but you will need a prescription from your vet to get CP and those are sometimes difficult to find.
There are lots of good threads about exactly how to QT and treat with copper or CP so give those a read and decide what you want to do.
The other option is to keep the fish well fed with quality food and make sure your water is pristine and eliminate as much stress as you can for the fish. If you are lucky this will allow the immune system of the fish to fight off the attack. The ich will still be in your tank and could strike at any time particularly if the fish is stressed.
If you want to get ich out of your tank you will need to treat all of the fish whether showing symptoms or not while leaving the tank fallow for 76 days to be sure the parasite is completely gone. Depending on the fish, I would treat with either copper or CP but you will need a prescription from your vet to get CP and those are sometimes difficult to find.
There are lots of good threads about exactly how to QT and treat with copper or CP so give those a read and decide what you want to do.
The other option is to keep the fish well fed with quality food and make sure your water is pristine and eliminate as much stress as you can for the fish. If you are lucky this will allow the immune system of the fish to fight off the attack. The ich will still be in your tank and could strike at any time particularly if the fish is stressed.
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Venzzla
Active Member
yes I have my nitrates below 5ppm before that additon of rally and no ich. My water is RO/DI so that wont be an issue... I still worry about my fire shrimp even though it says inverte safe....If I decide to go with copper Ill have to quarantine the fish...stupid question, can shrimp get ick?
HotRocks
Fish Fanatic!
All of your fish in the tank need treated. Even if they are asymptomatic. The power outage is what let the parasite take hold.
Copper is the easiest most forgiving method IMO. I use it on 99% of the fish I treat.
Hypo is very difficult. ATO is almost a must.
CP requires a prescription from a vet. Some fish will not tolerate CP. Anthias, wrasse, blue hippos etc.
Copper is the easiest most forgiving method IMO. I use it on 99% of the fish I treat.
Hypo is very difficult. ATO is almost a must.
CP requires a prescription from a vet. Some fish will not tolerate CP. Anthias, wrasse, blue hippos etc.
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Venzzla
Active Member
If I go the TTM route, can I leave my snails , crabs and fire shrimp in the DT ? Also, since my biological filter is used to the load I have now how do I keep this up? Just feed the tank some food every so often?
