Ready to throw in the towel

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If you treat your fish with a copper based product for ICK it could kill your coral. If you could move your fish out to a bucket or something with support, heater and air/circulation you can do fresh water changes easily, that's what I would do. Also... you have ICK in your tank now. I would let it go fishless for at least a month before adding any fish to it. Set up a QT tank, you can do it fairly cheaply (I'm on a tight budget too). It's much cheaper to set up a QT, than to buy all new fish after ICK. As far as your tank I am still too new to really help.
 
If you upgrade your lighting make sure to turn it way down and acclimate the corals gradually, otherwise it will probably fry them!
 
I recommend SBreeflights. Very budget friendly and will def get the job done for any corals in the future. If it was me I would switch to a more known brand such as instant ocean and not very expensive for 200 gallon mix which is under 50$ in U.S. Also I would recommend taking the fish to the LFS as from what I can see your tank is not necessarily big enough for the blue tang to stay healthy. I know it is hard to get rid of a fish that you care for. But you have to think of it in the fish best interest. If you do decide to take him back let us know the current stocking situation fish and coral and inverts. In my personal experience I do not do waterchanges and have yet to do one for a good amount of years even in my reef setup. I believe it messes with my tanks balance so may I reccomend stopping waterchanges for a month or so keep an eye on alk and calc and dose something if it falls to low like a dry alk powder and the same for calc. This and the light upgrade to some chinese black box and getting rid of the blue tang I would think would increase your success in this hobby:)
I'll take a look for some today. But yeah definitely upgrading my salt as well as soon as this one runs out.
The tang is still fairly small at the moment but its something I'll consider, need to try treat it for ich first though
 
I have had a couple tanks that took 2-3 years to really mature and stabilize, every tank is different but your tank still looks like it has some aging to do..

One of my 2 current tanks went through a 1 year ugly stage starting at around the one year mark, really bad cyano outbreak and hair algae everywhere.. I added a larger clean up crew and basically road it out, at the 2 year mark the tank is spotless with just about zero effort or maintenance beyond filling my ATO and feeding the fish..

I also agree with others your lighting is not sufficient for coral health but wouldn’t be the reason for fish loss..

Check every magnet in your tank for rust, I had a problem recently where my thriving reef went down hill fast.. multiple water changes and replacement of all media made no difference, I was starting to see color changes and skeletal protrusions from stony corals. I went through every inch of my system and found a rusty magnet! Pulled it, did big water change and added a poly filter.. 2 days later the tank looked completely back to normal like nothing had happened.
I've been through the ugly stage in think. Had diatoms, then cyano like crazy and straight into GHA but managed to get that under control. Now dont really have any algea, noticable anyway.

I'll have a good look for anything rusty today
 
If you treat your fish with a copper based product for ICK it could kill your coral. If you could move your fish out to a bucket or something with support, heater and air/circulation you can do fresh water changes easily, that's what I would do. Also... you have ICK in your tank now. I would let it go fishless for at least a month before adding any fish to it. Set up a QT tank, you can do it fairly cheaply (I'm on a tight budget too). It's much cheaper to set up a QT, than to buy all new fish after ICK. As far as your tank I am still too new to really help.
I've got a small qt tank but dont have the equipment for it yet. Would 4 fish in there at once cause them to stress out?especially the tang.

I'm planning on doing a fresh water dip on the tang today as thats the only fish showing any signs on ich.
It's still eating fine and swimming around as normal
 
Many good suggestions but my first thought from page 1, your Alk is low. In the 7 range you're stressing corals. Get your Alk upto 8-9, Calcium 420-450 and magnesium 1200 - 1400 range. I know easier said than done, but we all go through this "fine tuning". Once you find that "sweet spot" and get into a routine of testing and dosing - trust me it gets easier and results are fullfilling.
 
Many good suggestions but my first thought from page 1, your Alk is low. In the 7 range you're stressing corals. Get your Alk upto 8-9, Calcium 420-450 and magnesium 1200 - 1400 range. I know easier said than done, but we all go through this "fine tuning". Once you find that "sweet spot" and get into a routine of testing and dosing - trust me it gets easier and results are fullfilling.
Yeah I'll try bring the alk and mag up and keep them there.
 
Yeah I'll try bring the alk and mag up and keep them there.
I have read a lot of articles recently that you can have great results with lower Alk (7-8 dKH), natural sea water is right around 7. Stability is the key. I run my tank at 7.5 and corals have been thriving. Keep your parameters stable and you will be ok!
 
Didn't read the whole thread, but it sounds like a contamination or maybe stray voltage because fish shouldn't just die unless they were old and your parameters are fine. Lights wouldn't kill a fish.

A lot of places do insect spraying this time of year and can get into your tank if by an open window.

I would start running more carbon as a precaution to get any possible contaminants out of the water.
 
I think, unfortunately, that some of the OP's disappointment just stems from impatience. I have one 75g tank that's been running for almost 25 years. It is nothing, and I mean nothing, like it was in the first couple of years. Our tanks just take time to stabilize, sometimes much more time than we realize or are able to accept. It's been said countless times that nothing good happens quickly in a reef tank. It's rarely as well pointed out that for a reef aquarium, a year is just a flash in time.

I firmly believe, although I have no real proof and only anecdotal evidence for this, that constantly messing with the chemistry and biology of our tanks is among the worst things we can do. Conversely, I think one of the best things we can do is to make a plan and stick to it for the long haul. Run GFO or carbon if you choose to. Use bioballs if you think it's good to do so. Run a Ca reactor if you want to. Do regular water changes with the same saltwater mix. Feed the same amount at about the same time(s) every day. Choose appropriate lighting and maintain your lighting schedule. But don't waffle back and forth between using these things and not using them, or between saltwater mixes, or lighting programs. Stability, IMO, is key.

And just for some real evidence, I checked my PO4 in that 75g system last week: 0.83ppm. I can hear hearts fluttering right now. Yes, that number is correct and verified. It probably spiked to over 1ppm after feeding every day. That tank has not the slightest shred of nuisance algae, and hasn't for many years. Some cyanobacteria does accumulate on the sand bed at the end of the day, but it doesn't bother anything. The tank has SPS, LPS, zoanthids, discosoma, goniopora, all healthy, growing, and thriving, and a lot of that stuff has been in the tank for its whole life. I've had the same fish in the tank for a really long time, ranging from a 30+ year old yellowtail damsel and a 20 year old rabbitfish to a 4 year old falco hawkfish. I've had the same pair of skunk cleaner shrimp for more than 5 years, and the same banded trochus and nassarius snails for going on 10 years.

All of which is just to point out that good things take time, and stability is key. Patience is not only a virtue, it is a necessity for this hobby. Those who cannot find patience are doomed to fail or quit.

I'll also point out that for the life of me, I cannot keep a cynarina in this tank long term. I love those corals, but for some reason I cannot maintain one in that tank, so I gave up trying. Sometimes we just have to accept things like that.
 
90g tank. 2 yrs. patience. patience. Have lost four grammas, five dottybacks, and six blennies all looking great until missing in action. You think I’d learn a lesson. But no idea why. Figure the real reason I’m staring at the tank is the corals. Btw acans hate each other and will fight if close. Feed acans for good growth. Good luck
 
Ich or something else?
20180628_144237.jpeg

Alot of times when tangs are stressed it appears as ICK (the way I understand it) I have a powder brown who once in awhile gets and "ICK -like" look to him. I feed him Nori with a couple of drops of liquid garlic and it's gone in 24 hours. But Tangs are notorious Ick magnets.
 
Twice I have tried to keep a blue tang and twice it wiped out my tank and wanting me to quit the hobby. They are are very difficult fish to keep parasite free.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

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