OK yes.......Considering that your tubing was routed in kind of a loop, the ATO water wasn't draining right. What happens then is--the float will get stuck in the "up" or "
closed" position. The water level in the return pump chamber will go lower during evaporation, but the valve will stay up and be out of the water. Salt creep will get in there, and the ATO won't work because the float will be stuck like this. Hence the reason I recommend having a short tube going from the ATO tank nipple directly to the float valve nipple.
On the other hand, if you have a straight tube going from the ATO nipple to the float valve nipple, the float valve will likely never get stuck in the "down" or
"open" position and drain all your ATO water--ever. Like never, ever, ever. The reason is that the float valve will always in the sump water and the ATO water will be flowing through it washing it out.
A few reasons why yours was probably getting stuck up or "
closed":
1) The float valve or float valve nipple has got something stuck in it--salt creep, snail, piece of food, chip of corraline algae, bit of sand, etc.
2) The tubing and/or one of the nipples going between the ATO tank and the float valve itself are kinked, routed incorrectly, or blocked.
3) The tubing between the ATO tank nipple and the float valve nipple is too long and not routed directly downward.
4) The float valve couldn't move down with the water level in the return pump chamber because it was hitting the top of your return pump, the return pump tubing, the side of the sump glass, or something else in the return pump chamber. It has to be able to float and move up and down with the water level changes.
5) Your ATO tank is dirty. You have to take it out once in a while and clean off the salt spray, the inside, blow out the nipple, and make sure theres nothing in the water you use to refill it.
Best solution----after you have your tubing right----is to take out the ball valve and clean it with a boothbrush, or push it underwater (bob it up and down) a few times. That'll wash out the salt creep. Could also hold the float valve down, and blow on the tubing going to the float valve nipple. Might also want to clean out the ATO tank nipple with a paper clip.
To take out the ball valve, remove the rubber tubing and unscrew the ball valve nipple. Then unscrew the nut. You have to take the tubing and nipple off before you take off the nut. Then the float valve shaft will come out of the bottom of the glass triangle in the sump. Installation is reverse of removal--put the float valve in the sump, screw on the nut, then screw on the nipple and re-attach the tubing.
Remember, it's gravity that is making the whole ATO system work. If anything is interfering with the way water is flowing from the ATO tank to the sump, then it won't work like it should. And water always flows "down hill".