red sea reefer ato??h

[shadow1013]

I did have to cut the tube shorter to be above the ATO water level so it couldn't continue to flow down into the sump even with the included air break so it sounds like my tank is peeing according to my wife but that isn't too bad to me.

I've been thinking about that, but every ATO kit with a pump wants the reservoir to be BELOW the water level in the sump. Is that really something to be concerned with? Because, if so, it completely rules out the built in ATO tank and would require something on the floor with a relatively low water level.

 

[KevyKevTPA]

I did have to cut the tube shorter to be above the ATO water level so it couldn't continue to flow down into the sump even with the included air break so it sounds like my tank is peeing according to my wife but that isn't too bad to me.

If I have a pump in the ATO water that's activated by the electronics, but place the ATO "tank" above wherever it is I'm pumping the water, wouldn't the pump itself (assuming it's not broken or otherwise compromised) prevent any sort of siphon from happening? Meaning if it's off, gravity wouldn't be powerful enough to pull the water through, even though the destination is lower?

 

[shadow1013]

Mine didn't. Always best to check because I assumed it would have.

If I have a pump in the ATO water that's activated by the electronics, but place the ATO "tank" above wherever it is I'm pumping the water, wouldn't the pump itself (assuming it's not broken or otherwise compromised) prevent any sort of siphon from happening? Meaning if it's off, gravity wouldn't be powerful enough to pull the water through, even though the destination is lower?

 

[NorCalToy]

So hear me out...My Reefer ATO finally stopped working. So I pulled the res tank, and then I pulled out the float valve. Can anyone explain to me why the float valve is backwards?

When the float is up (floating), and the sump is full, the valve is kept open. So you're telling me the water level is where you want it, but you're going to add some RO/DI from the res anyways...

When sump level drops, so does the float, which in turn closes the valve. So now that I actually want top off water, you're shutting me out...

Doesn't this sound wrong? I understand they want you to slow drip into your sump, but that really means yours constantly filling the sump, if you open the res tank valve all the way would you run the risk of overflowing your sump?

Has anyone tried flipping the valve to that it works like a float valve is designed to work? Floating at a specific level to turn the valve off, and as the sump level lowers, the valve would open to allow water from the res to fill the sump...

 

[NorCalToy]

So hear me out...My Reefer ATO finally stopped working. So I pulled the res tank, and then I pulled out the float valve. Can anyone explain to me why the float valve is backwards?

When the float is up (floating), and the sump is full, the valve is kept open. So you're telling me the water level is where you want it, but you're going to add some RO/DI from the res anyways...

When sump level drops, so does the float, which in turn closes the valve. So now that I actually want top off water, you're shutting me out...

Doesn't this sound wrong? I understand they want you to slow drip into your sump, but that really means yours constantly filling the sump, if you open the res tank valve all the way would you run the risk of overflowing your sump?

Has anyone tried flipping the valve to that it works like a float valve is designed to work? Floating at a specific level to turn the valve off, and as the sump level lowers, the valve would open to allow water from the res to fill the sump...

Or maybe after you take apart the float, put it back together the right way….my dummy flipped the float….

 

[Simon_M]

I've been thinking about that, but every ATO kit with a pump wants the reservoir to be BELOW the water level in the sump. Is that really something to be concerned with? Because, if so, it completely rules out the built in ATO tank and would require something on the floor with a relatively low water level.

For a gravity fed system the reservoir is positioned ABOVE the tank and the float controls how much water is delivered. There is no siphon action because the float valve controls the flow.

For a pumped system the reservoir is positioned BELOW the tank and the sensor controls the delivery of pumped water. There is no siphon action except to drain the pipework when the pump switches off. NB there should be a gap (drop) between the pipework outlet and the tank to break any potential siphon.

For a pumped system the reservoir is (incorrectly) positioned ABOVE the tank, the siphon action will drain the reservoir into the tank even when the pump is switched off. NB To be avoided.

Simon

 

[Simon_M]

As above said: Bottom corner of the ATO tank has a nipple. That goes to the top of the float valve in the corner of the return pump chamber in the sump. Probably have to cut the tubing a little so it's nice downward from the ATO nipple to the float, otherwise it'll stop flowing after the ATO tank gets about 1/2 empty.

PS--After a few fills of that tiny little 3 gallon ATO tank, you'll be wishing you had something bigger. Mine lasted about 2 days before it was empty, so I went with a 20 gallon RV fresh water tank off Amazon($30) and stuck it on a shelf in a closet. Ran some RODI line from that to the float valve in the sump and never have an issue. Lasts about a month before I have to refill it. I used the old ATO tank to drip irrigate my orchids.

Mine is a REEFER 625 G2 - but I don't think the design has changed. The Operation Manual says to regulate the flow to about one drop per second when the Float is open. But the Float doesn't appear to have any form of adjustment.

The ATO has a captive Cover that can be used if the Grey Hose is disconnected - to prevent the ATO emptying. If I blow into the Grey Hose and the water level is too low then it flows freely. As the water height approaches the desired level, then it becomes pinched off and increasingly difficult to blow into. Finally when the height reaches the desired level then it switches off completely. Simple setup that seems to work.

I read that having the tubing rising up and away from the Float prevents the supply stopping. I don't that is quite right because if the tube is full of water then only the relative height of the two ends matter. However, I hadn't appreciated that a dip in the tube might cause water to flow backwards and so saltwater flows up the tube.

I have the ATO resting on the rails but with the output towards the rear of the Sump. This is identified by the red RS Label - that I removed being towards the back of the Sump when it would normally face outwards at the front. I did this because I wanted easy access to the ATO output and with it reversed it points in the direction of my Skimmer which is better (for me) than facing towards (and under the edge) of my ReefMat.

The grey tubing was passing under the ATO and dipping into the Sump before rising up to the Float. I rearranged the flow so that the Grey Hose rises up and lies on the Sump Rails before finally dipping down and connecting to the ATO. I don't think the RO/DI water would ever flow backwards or be displaced by seawater even if the Grey Hose had dipped down, but this is an even better arrangement.