RedSea MaxE 170 Start Up

[ProfessorAronnax]

Hey everyone!

My intent with starting this thread will be to do a step-by-step walk through of my new tank adventure. While I will be going over the setting up of the tank,doing equipment reviews, livestock, etc; the first part will be, what I consider, the foundation for success that has worked for me for many years.
I hope you'll follow along with me!

-Source water-

One of the aspects of the build that I've put the most time into this far has been my source water. I'm a firm believer that we take care of water and fish/corals that are healthy are a bonus. The big thing I had trouble with on my RODI system was that I was old (6 years). I had it sitting in the garage in a bag, which I would regret during installation. I got said unit installed and started pushing water through it...well...water was spraying out of every possible seal and connection. I disassembled the entire unit and replaced all seal, double ended fittings, and 1/4 tubing. While I was at it I also installed a flush valve and dual tds meter. Moral of that story-if you're done with it, dry it out and store in a dry place...not a bag!After reinstallation, I again pushed water through, however, my second DI chamber was having a hard time filling. I thought perhaps I packed my resin too tightly, but the tighter the better.This was fixed when I realised the tube containing the resin was no center properly.After the adjustment, everything ran well, but I was reading 0 tds in and 3 out. I am not sure why this happened.The only thing I could figure was that the unit, essentially being new again, needed a break-in period. Well that seemed to be the case as it now reads 2 in and 0 out. In the pictures you will notice two in-line ball valves. This is because my wife said I wasn't running a water line through the house to an ATO. The first valve turn water flow to unit on while the second is on the end of the clean water line (30 ft) so I have free reign to the tank. I would reccomend these highly to anyone new as well as the flush valve for extending membrane life. Trying to make things as neat as possible, I used nail-in cable controllers to pin the tubing in the cabinet. A bag of 100 costs a couple bucks and really does neaten things up!

If I had anything to do over on the project, I would have just rebuilt the unit from the start. I should have known that it was going to gush water after sitting for so long.

Used grey high density teflon.I have had the best results with it.

First ball balve

Flush valve and new plumbing

TDS meter install and DI chambers

Tubing tacked down

Over-all system looks nice and tidy

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

So I have some work to do figuring out how to arrange photos to show up after text...I'll get there! And I have no idea why multiple pics went up

*FIXED*

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

-Bleaching live rock and curing-

The last time I set up a tank I had a major issue with it leaching phosphates into the water even after curing in a tub. Set on this not happening again, I decided to bleach it.
I have 30 pounds of BRS reef saver rock. Having never bleached rock before, I turned to BRS for info on this. First I filled a 35 gallon tub about halfway with RODI water and put in my rock. I then added close to a gallon of bleach (dollar store is the way to go), put the lid on the bin and let it soak for 10 days. I wanted to go for 2 weeks,but I knew it would take some time to dry and we had a clear window in the weather. I dumped out all the bleach water and rinsed the tub with the water hose thoroughly. The rock was left to dry for 4 days in the sun sitting on the lid of the container. I didnt want the rock in contact with anything that may have been on my driveway.
The next step was to get it curing! Again, I filled my tub with fresh RODI water and added my salt mix. I added the rock and a small bottle of Prime to get rid of any residual chlorine that may have been present. The heater I am using in the bin is an Aqueon Pro (solid plastic,fully submersible, and Petco will price match it from their website which is $25 cheaper). The powerhead in use is an Ecotech MP10QD ( originally had a Hydor Nano, but I wasn't pleased with the flow). The rock was then "seeded" with Microbacter7. This rock will cure for 2 months before I even think about adding it to the tank.

If I was doing somethin different in this step- I would use a different salt mix for curing. The mix I have is really great (HW Reefer) but it is pricey and no worth using to cure rock. I also would have forgone the Hydor and gone with a MaxiJet pump.The hydor will still get used in a mixing container for water changes. I am a really big fan of the MP10QD! It's got a bit of noise but it sounds like its from being on a plastic tub. Controls easily even without a Reef Link.

Adding RODI to my new rock

After 1 week in bleach

Sun drying

Pic looks distorted,but its flow in the bin while curing.

 

[Taxus812]

It a great start . I also have a max E170 and will be looking forward to how you make out.

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

It a great start . I also have a max E170 and will be looking forward to how you make out.

Thanks!How do you like it (tank).

 

[408Dartfish]

Nice looking start I have an E-260 for about a year now.

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

Nice looking start I have an E-260 for about a year now.

Any major issues out of this line of tank?

 

[Taxus812]

Thanks!How do you like it (tank).

I absolutely love this tank more and more every day. The hardest thing I had with this was selecting an ATO. The tall thin sump can pose a challenge to some ATO's since the water level rises a lot with very little water volume. A second pain point is this tank only has a reserve volume of 1.5 gal. So technically the reservoir should not exceed 1.5 gallons (which is about 3 days supply) incase the ATO fails on. This tank is in my bedroom with nice hardwood floors so that was a very important thing for me to consider. I think I have that under control and I am using a 5 gal container, XPAqua Duetto ATO (two overfill safety's built in) and a mechanical float on the fill line for some crazy thing like a surge causing the ATO logic to burn up leaving it in the ON position.

The other issue is adding things like a UV filter can be challenging.

What I love is it is stupid simple to clean. It takes me 30 min on Sundays. the skimmer cup I clean everyday because frozen food can smell but again it easy to clean (I would get a thin bottle brush to clean it with.)


Here is my cleaning schedule if it will help you
Task Name Schedule
ATO - Check/Fill Reservoir Dynamic: Every 7 Day(s)
ATO - Clean Sensor Fixed: monthly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Heater - Clean Fixed: every 3 months, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Heater - Replace Fixed: yearly in March and April, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Hydra 26 HD - Clean \ Inspect Dynamic: Every 30 Day(s)
Media Rack - Change Carbon Filter Dynamic: Every 90 Day(s)
Media Rack - Clean\change filter pad, Every three days
Skimmer - Clean Fixed: every 3 months on the 15th and the 19th of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Skimmer - Clean Pump Fixed: every 4 months on the 15th of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Skimmer - Empty Collection Cup Fixed: weekly on Sunday and Wednesday, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Sump - Clean Circulating Pump Fixed: every 4 months on the 15th of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Sump - Deep Clean Fixed: every 2 months, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Surface Skimmer (Combs) - Clean Fixed: weekly on Saturday, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Change - 10% Dynamic: Every 7 Day(s)
Water Testing - Ammonia Fixed: weekly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Testing - Calcium, Mg, and Alkalinity Testing Fixed: weekly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Testing - Nitrate Fixed: every other week, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Testing - Off Cycle
Water Testing - Phosphate Fixed: monthly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Wave Pumps - Clean \ Inspect Fixed: every 6 months on the 21st of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever

 

[408Dartfish]

Any major issues out of this line of tank?

Nothing major love it, went for the sump also.

 

[Taxus812]

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

Wow!Those tanks look amazing!!!
You both have me super excited now!

I absolutely love this tank more and more every day. The hardest thing I had with this was selecting an ATO. The tall thin sump can pose a challenge to some ATO's since the water level rises a lot with very little water volume. A second pain point is this tank only has a reserve volume of 1.5 gal. So technically the reservoir should not exceed 1.5 gallons (which is about 3 days supply) incase the ATO fails on. This tank is in my bedroom with nice hardwood floors so that was a very important thing for me to consider. I think I have that under control and I am using a 5 gal container, XPAqua Duetto ATO (two overfill safety's built in) and a mechanical float on the fill line for some crazy thing like a surge causing the ATO logic to burn up leaving it in the ON position.

The other issue is adding things like a UV filter can be challenging.

What I love is it is stupid simple to clean. It takes me 30 min on Sundays. the skimmer cup I clean everyday because frozen food can smell but again it easy to clean (I would get a thin bottle brush to clean it with.)


Here is my cleaning schedule if it will help you
Task Name Schedule
ATO - Check/Fill Reservoir Dynamic: Every 7 Day(s)
ATO - Clean Sensor Fixed: monthly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Heater - Clean Fixed: every 3 months, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Heater - Replace Fixed: yearly in March and April, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Hydra 26 HD - Clean \ Inspect Dynamic: Every 30 Day(s)
Media Rack - Change Carbon Filter Dynamic: Every 90 Day(s)
Media Rack - Clean\change filter pad, Every three days
Skimmer - Clean Fixed: every 3 months on the 15th and the 19th of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Skimmer - Clean Pump Fixed: every 4 months on the 15th of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Skimmer - Empty Collection Cup Fixed: weekly on Sunday and Wednesday, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Sump - Clean Circulating Pump Fixed: every 4 months on the 15th of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Sump - Deep Clean Fixed: every 2 months, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Surface Skimmer (Combs) - Clean Fixed: weekly on Saturday, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Change - 10% Dynamic: Every 7 Day(s)
Water Testing - Ammonia Fixed: weekly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Testing - Calcium, Mg, and Alkalinity Testing Fixed: weekly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Testing - Nitrate Fixed: every other week, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Water Testing - Off Cycle
Water Testing - Phosphate Fixed: monthly, starting from 5/22/19, forever
Wave Pumps - Clean \ Inspect Fixed: every 6 months on the 21st of the month, starting from 5/22/19, forever

Thank you for letting me know the size for a reservoir! I too have hard wood floors and was afraid of an ATO failing in the on position. I already have my ATO system (Tunze 3155) and plan to turn that to the nano setting. My container is about 2 gallons so I will watch it carefully.

 

[Taxus812]

Wow!Those tanks look amazing!!!
You both have me super excited now!



Thank you for letting me know the size for a reservoir! I too have hard wood floors and was afraid of an ATO failing in the on position. I already have my ATO system (Tunze 3155) and plan to turn that to the nano setting. My container is about 2 gallons so I will watch it carefully.

You can add a float to the fill tube and if the water gets to high it shuts it off (the pump will just run but no water will flow). See my build log for more info.

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

You can add a float to the fill tube and if the water gets to high it shuts it off (the pump will just run but no water will flow). See my build log for more info.

You answered so many questions I had in your thread!I will be following along with you! Would you be willing to print one of those float mounts for me?I'd even pay ya for it!Really great idea!

 

[Taxus812]

You answered so many questions I had in your thread!I will be following along with you! Would you be willing to print one of those float mounts for me?I'd even pay ya for it!Really great idea!

I will see if I still have the file. If you want you can also buy a complete float with bracket online.

 

[Taxus812]

This is the one in my first pictures. It was just a bit noisy for my bedroom.

https://www.amazon.com/ZAOJIAO-Auto...8555997&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1

Here is another from eshopps

https://www.marinedepot.com/Eshopps_Auto_Top_Off_ATO_Float_Valve-QH03531-FIDPAT-vi.html

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

Awesome!Those will work fine!Thank you!

 

[Taxus812]

I am sorry if I am filing up you build thread. One thing I forgot (you may have figured it out already). You may have get an adaptor from 1/4 tube to whatever size fill tube comes with your ATO. The ATO floats have 1/4" push to connect fittings like your RODI (because they were made to connect straight to the rodi ). You may need an adaptor for the tubing size that came with your ATO. Here is a link to what I found on amazon but I don't know the ID size of the Tunze fill tube. I assume it has a 1/4" inside diameter like mine for this conversation.

Here is how I set the float shutoff height and then tested that the float works.
Setting maximum water level height​

1. 
   
   
   • Turn off the circulating pump
   • Shut off the skimmer
   • *Let the water rise to its maximum height in the sump area.
   • Install the float and set it so it is closed at about this water height (you can also set your safety float for the Tunze to this water level so you wont get the alarm when feeding).

* setting this water level as the maximum will leave you about a gallon of reserve area in the tank.

ATO Testing - Floats will eventually get salted up, and will need to be cleaned (as does anything in a salt ware tank). Here is the testing procedure I use to make sure my mechanical float is working. ​

1. 
   
   
   • Turn off the circulating pump​
   • Shut off the skimmer​
   • Let the water rise to its maximum height in the sump.​
   • Move the fill sensor up until the pump ATO pump comes on. You should hear it running but no water should be getting through the float valve. ​
   • Move the sensor back to its normal position. ​
   • Turn on you circulating pump (and skimmer)​
   • Adjust your ATO fill sensor to its normal water level.​

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

So it's been 2 weeks since I started m rock with Microbacter7 and the rock smells noticeably...bacteria-ish! Have only had to top off a couple of times and temp is staying a steady at 78.
BRS still has no MaxE 170s in stock with the new lighting

 

[ProfessorAronnax]

I am sorry if I am filing up you build thread. One thing I forgot (you may have figured it out already). You may have get an adaptor from 1/4 tube to whatever size fill tube comes with your ATO. The ATO floats have 1/4" push to connect fittings like your RODI (because they were made to connect straight to the rodi ). You may need an adaptor for the tubing size that came with your ATO. Here is a link to what I found on amazon but I don't know the ID size of the Tunze fill tube. I assume it has a 1/4" inside diameter like mine for this conversation.

Here is how I set the float shutoff height and then tested that the float works.
Setting maximum water level height​

1. 
   
   
   • Turn off the circulating pump
   • Shut off the skimmer
   • *Let the water rise to its maximum height in the sump area.
   • Install the float and set it so it is closed at about this water height (you can also set your safety float for the Tunze to this water level so you wont get the alarm when feeding).

* setting this water level as the maximum will leave you about a gallon of reserve area in the tank.

ATO Testing - Floats will eventually get salted up, and will need to be cleaned (as does anything in a salt ware tank). Here is the testing procedure I use to make sure my mechanical float is working. ​

1. 
   
   
   • Turn off the circulating pump​
   • Shut off the skimmer​
   • Let the water rise to its maximum height in the sump.​
   • Move the fill sensor up until the pump ATO pump comes on. You should hear it running but no water should be getting through the float valve. ​
   • Move the sensor back to its normal position. ​
   • Turn on you circulating pump (and skimmer)​
   • Adjust your ATO fill sensor to its normal water level.​

No worries!I welcome all ideas and you have some great ones!

 

[Dub_G]

Looking forward to your build. I've got the Max E-260.