Is this the thread?
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/halides-question.360358/#post-4465842
The recommendation in that thread is that all the DE 250W halides would need a M80 ballast to run it's best.
For sure your ballast isn't an M80, and therefore you ARE under driving the bulb, yes, when using a ReefBrite ballast!
That doesn't mean the bulb can't be used with HQI, electronic, Pulse start, or the ReefBrite ballast.
It's just that if you use it with the M80 you will get the best out of it. Is that what you want when complaining about the PAR from ReefBrite?
M80 ballast runs at 330W.
Electronic on HQI or Superlumens will give you 300W.
Your ReefBrite is only 255W on the output.
Mr. Tullio makes ballasts that under drives the bulbs, if those bulbs are designed to be used with higher wattage ballasts.
That is a fact published by their website.
Quote:
"Model Input Voltage Input Current Input Power Power Factor
175 Watts 100-150 & 240 VAC 1.5 Amps 178.5 Watts >0.98
250 Watts 2.1 Amps 255 Watts
400 Watts 3.4 Amps 408 Watts"
FROM:
http://www.reefbrite.com/product/reef-brite-reef-tech/
Take a look here:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-brite-halide-system-users.337885/
This is when I started to think more about the ReefBright for what I wanted:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-brite-halide-system-users.337885/page-7#post-4237305
Its a matter of how you want your light system to perform.
If your ultimate goal is to save some pennies here and there and keep the house/tank a little cooler, you get something like the ReefBrite, but please don't complain about it. Hehe.
If you want to keep that bulb running at it's recommended output you will need to get what makes it happen, right?
Simple as that.
I don't think we should ignore the advices here because other wise there is no need even to come here to ask.
I returned my ReefBrite because I want to run Radium bulbs and they are made for M80 ballasts.
Grandis.