Reef just not thriving, please help (ICP Results In)

Nothing wrong with PAR. Got a hold of an Apogee and spent 2 hours mapping the tank out across various intensities and depths. Its at 80-100 on the sandbed, 180 - 200 in the mid to higher areas. (This is with the light at a fairly low intensity).

Lots to think about here. Ill continue to address the Ca+, fix the salinity, and change my DIY Two Part to the BRS products.

The salinity is frustrating because Ive used distilled water ever since day 1 to make sure my refractometer measures a true zero. Maybe Im missing something. I may just grab a new refractometer.

@Randy Holmes-Farley how do you feel about that silicon in the RODI water? Its high in the RODI, but the tank seems to be handling it fine? I know there are suggestions to replace the DI unit, but only 1/3 of it has changed color and I'd had to be wasteful in getting another unit if I don't need it?

Really appreciate the input guys, I know its a lot to read through, but the experience I've had with this reef is nothing like I've had before. Definitely struggling to find the enjoyment.
You shouldn't use 'distilled water' to calibrate your refractometer. You should be using the 35 calibration fluid to make sure. BTW - the Salinity is a difference of 1.024 and 1.026. I do not think that this is significant (given the margin of error when looking at a refractometer)
 
On my ATI test results I had elevated silicon I change my filters and DI resin and keep a eye on my TDS meter. Past 3 months according to ATI test it was perfect. Make sure you keep fresh DI resin when it time that should take care of it unless you're getting it from another source
The funny thing - how can the result in the RODI be correct (1900) - when it is 90 in the tank (normal). Unless organisms are utilizing it in the tank - in any case - I dont see that silicon is causing a problem
 
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Nothing wrong with PAR. Got a hold of an Apogee and spent 2 hours mapping the tank out across various intensities and depths. Its at 80-100 on the sandbed, 180 - 200 in the mid to higher areas. (This is with the light at a fairly low intensity).

200 PAR is the absolute bare minimum for SPS. Should shoot for 300+ IMO
 
On my ATI test results I had elevated silicon I change my filters and DI resin and keep a eye on my TDS meter. Past 3 months according to ATI test it was perfect. Make sure you keep fresh DI resin when it time that should take care of it unless you're getting it from another source

Silicon is not any concern unless you have a diatom problem.
 
Reef ninja I second getting a refractometer calibration fluid. Fix this and other elements will rise from adding more salt to your tank. After the refractometer is dialed in, and you have fixed your salinity over a few days, do the 3 x 20% water changes weekly. Also IMO good random flow is more important to sps than the best lighting. I am underpowered with a six bulb 48” ATI fixture on a 60” 120 gal tank that is sps packed.
 
Lots to think about here. I’ll think about changing the RODI filters and resin, though this doesn’t seem a big factor to me (the reef silicon levels are just fine), I’ll change the diy 2 part to something reputable, I think I’ll stop storing water in the brute can for a while, store saltwater mix for one month at a time, and I’ll pick up a new refeactometer, though 1.024 doesn’t seem critical to me. Maybe it’s a combination of a bunch of little things. I’ll hold off on adding fish for now, too much of an imbalance as it is. Whew.
 
My personal opinion get rid of what your dosing and use something a little more common and widely used. Second. Salinity is off. Third. RODI appears tainted you likely need to run through the system and clean things up a bit. Good luck
Baking soda is used all the time for alkalinity. Nothing uncommon about it. No reason to change it!
The Preston Driveway heat bring used for Ca is not very pure according to the MSDS sheet at 90-92% pure. I am not a chemist, but I don’t believe it contains anything harm full. It is a lower quality of the products Randy recommends. I use 99% pure snow and ice melt I get in bulk for much less than what BRS sells it for.
 
Anytime I store mixed saltwater for it precipitates something white out and collects on the bottom. I only make saltwater the day I need it now.
 
What is the purpose of those water changes?
I suggested water changes (and carbon) - in case there are toxins being produced by dead/.dying coral. To me it doesn't make complete sense that some corals are doing 'great' and others are dying. Perhaps its the old 'maxim' - its hard to keep SPS and LPS together - with soft corals - though I have not had this problem. To me there are a lot of different corals in a small area in this tank perhaps?
 
I have stored water for months without any issue. Both with and without circulation.
Some salts are stable like this - others are not. Some are recommended to be circulated - some are not.
 
I suggested water changes (and carbon) - in case there are toxins being produced by dead/.dying coral. To me it doesn't make complete sense that some corals are doing 'great' and others are dying. Perhaps its the old 'maxim' - its hard to keep SPS and LPS together - with soft corals - though I have not had this problem. To me there are a lot of different corals in a small area in this tank perhaps?
Weird to me too, but I have a frog skin acro that’s now encrusting and growing, and a tricolor of equal size that really took a hit. Just as I noticed the frog skin growth, my favorite birdsnest colony took a dive. Only difference was I added a large piece of GSP, but its isolated and away from everything. I think it also has something to do with taking the skimmer offline.
 
Ordering the replacement filters today. Im going to replace the sediment, carbon, and DI filter. Is there any indication that the RO membrane needs to be replaced? All four filters/membranes are almost a year old.
 
The membrane needs replacing when the TDS to the DI exceeds the rejection ratio. So if your membrane has a 98% rejection ratio and your TDS going to the membrane is 100, than the TDS of exiting the membrane should be 2. When it starts increasing it is time to replace your membrane.
 
Several people have said you sg is low. That’s the easiest and most obvious fix. Fix it my man, THEN look for other stuff.
100% this. Fix your salinity first and see what that does over the course of a couple weeks. Fix it by frequent water changes with new saltwater mix. I use Reef Crystals too from Instant Ocean but I don't store it. I mix it as needed. Then if this isn't fixing the main problem, try something else. But I also agree that you should stop dosing calcium for a while and when you start again, use BRS soda ash and calcium carbonate for dosing alk and calcium. These are the best as far as I can see.
 
Alright....new refractometer and calib solution, TDS meter, 4-stage filters, and BRS two-part on the the way.

Probably over the summer Ill end up replacing my current RODI unit with a BRS unit, they seem really nice.

Not gonna switch the salt, but Ill stop making so much ahead of time. Even though its entirely possible that this isn't an issue, it couldn't hurt to not store it so long. Thanks again guys, truly.
 
FWIW - Again - though several people are having a virtual meltdown. The difference between his 31.87 and 35 is 1.024 and 1.026 its insignificant. And IMHO has nothing to do with the issues here
 

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