reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

I recommend also connecting the enable pin to the Pi. Stepper drivers will hold their position actively when not given any step signals (this is normally what you want if you use steppers for motion control), but you're burning a lot of power in the motor, and the pump doesn't require holding position for the majority of the time. You can probably just use one enable line, and enable the pumps as a bank, to conserve GPIO.

That makes sense. So it uses 1 extra gpio. but should be very doable.
 
I have been running few load tests with my test builds, connected to actual relays , temperature sensors etc.. I am OK with the results, here is an example dashboard of a build that has two temp sensor, one ADJ power strip, two ATO. Temperature controllers and ATOs are all dialed at 5 seconds interval. I have couple of timers also running wave maker and 30s alternate, and a light powered by pi's pwm. The build's CPU utilization is around 40-60%. Its powered by pi zero, and does not run GUI/VNC etc. I think this is very close to limits of pi zero. May be another power strip and one more temperature controller/ATO, or couple of lights and pi zero will show serious perf issues. Again, this is when running at 2-5s interval. If you are running them 30s interval, things would be lot less CPU intensive,
Screen Shot 2018-11-24 at 4.01.06 PM.png
 
I have been running few load tests with my test builds, connected to actual relays , temperature sensors etc.. I am OK with the results, here is an example dashboard of a build that has two temp sensor, one ADJ power strip, two ATO. Temperature controllers and ATOs are all dialed at 5 seconds interval. I have couple of timers also running wave maker and 30s alternate, and a light powered by pi's pwm. The build's CPU utilization is around 40-60%. Its powered by pi zero, and does not run GUI/VNC etc. I think this is very close to limits of pi zero. May be another power strip and one more temperature controller/ATO, or couple of lights and pi zero will show serious perf issues. Again, this is when running at 2-5s interval. If you are running them 30s interval, things would be lot less CPU intensive,
Screen Shot 2018-11-24 at 4.01.06 PM.png
That's really good for such a low cost board[emoji106]
 
I'm having a major brain fart. I'm trying to set up a new pi 3 and can't remember how to add this file
dtoverlay=pwm-2chan to the /boot/config.txt
 
I'm having a major brain fart. I'm trying to set up a new pi 3 and can't remember how to add this file
dtoverlay=pwm-2chan to the /boot/config.txt
Edit the file with vi or nano or some other text editor you are comfortable with
 
That's really good for such a low cost board[emoji106]
Yes. This is a good data , as we are planning to recommend the base board (that theatrus is making) with pi zero, targeted for a pico tank, I think it will be useful to be aware of some benchmarks
 
I'm using nano just can't remember where the file is I need to change and how to get there
nano /boot/config.txt , you can change anywhere in the file as long as it’s a separate line
 
I’m thinking along the lines of the Atmel SAMD21 series

Why?

Cheap
Good peripherals
Not archaic
Already used by the Arduino Zero and Circuit Playground Express (you can run MicroPython on the big one!)
I was already use the SAMD10/11 on the Pico board for pH and system watchdog :)

It’s not a DIP package and not 5V I/O as the main downsides. But someone could reprogram a CircuitPlaygroundExpress or Arduino Zero as the controller.

Self reply, but I'm thinking about the I/O modules still as I look at what I'm exposing on the ReefPi. Thoughts?

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef-pi-base-boards.499890/page-2#post-5394485
 
Yes. This is a good data , as we are planning to recommend the base board (that theatrus is making) with pi zero, targeted for a pico tank, I think it will be useful to be aware of some benchmarks
where can I read abouth the baseboard?
 
We are discussing this for sometime now, this is slated for next development cycle: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-pump-controller-to-reef-pi.497618/ and https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/issues/631
if you have any thoughts please do share.
Hello again, Ranjib! As always, I think you have a fantastic project, and I'd be happy to help anyway I can. Unfortunately, outside of basic powerheads and similar circ pumps, I have no real experience with the more expensive controllable circ pump options. I was looking into circulation options for my future 40 gallon, but I'm in no real hurry, so if this is something that's being worked on, I can be patient and see what you develop, and what technologies are easy to control with Reef-Pi.

EDIT: Ranjib, I can't (yet) program, but I have previously, and will again offer a *modest* monetary donation to this project. I am very sincere in this, if you set up a PayPal (for example) link, please let me know. If I can help in any other way I'd be glad to. Maybe I could add to some documentation, or purchase a product to see how it works?? I'm glad to try to help where ever you need it, feel free to PM me. Thanks again, this is a great project, and I really appreciate your efforts!

Thanks again, Ranjib, and everyone here supporting Reef-Pi!

-FF
 
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Hi guys! I am planning a build that I hope to base round Reef-Pi, and I want to ask a very, very "noob" question ;-) I have never used any kind of controller before, so in regards to a heater, do I need any special kind of heater to work with Reef-Pi? I guess my question is, do I want a heater without its own thermostat so that it's solely controlled by Reef-Pi? Or, do I use a quality "regular" heater, and set the thermostat a bit hot (like say 80 degrees F)? And, what if I want to run two heaters for redundancy (which I do want to do)? How do you set up the heaters such that I rely primarily on one heater, with the second being a backup for emergencies and cold spells? I believe this is the preferred setup when running two heaters, and I would like to do this with Reef-Pi. Any heater recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys!
 
Hi guys! I am planning a build that I hope to base round Reef-Pi, and I want to ask a very, very "noob" question ;-) I have never used any kind of controller before, so in regards to a heater, do I need any special kind of heater to work with Reef-Pi? I guess my question is, do I want a heater without its own thermostat so that it's solely controlled by Reef-Pi? Or, do I use a quality "regular" heater, and set the thermostat a bit hot (like say 80 degrees F)? And, what if I want to run two heaters for redundancy (which I do want to do)? How do you set up the heaters such that I rely primarily on one heater, with the second being a backup for emergencies and cold spells? I believe this is the preferred setup when running two heaters, and I would like to do this with Reef-Pi. Any heater recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys!
You don’t need any special heater. Use standard , quality heater with built in thermostat. Configure it at little bit higher temperature (say 80) and configure reef-pi to maintain lower temperature (say 79.5). Or the opposite . Reef-pi just adds another layer of protection that’s all
 
Ranjib, I checked the pca9685 and it is not sending any voltage. Here is how I have it setup in config tab. Then on lights just set the pins to 100 and left the rest the same on fixed.

Wires are connected to the proper ports. Sda to sda, scl to scl. Gnd to gnd and 3.3v to the vcc. Maybe my board is defective.
f31c9278be4e7e76378b7366091cac9f.jpg
0bc58be30a47b077a4e65d5be03f479c.jpg
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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