reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[ScottBrew]

Are you trying to move temp monitors to i2c bus or just trying to find a better connector?

 

[LionHeart2017]

Are you trying to move temp monitors to i2c bus or just trying to find a better connector?

Yeah, was looking at the connector more than anything, this is why I ask, I gather we don't use the i2c for the 1 wire connector

I'd like a hat that is same size as pi3 b+ with two rj11 ports connected to 1 wire and on the small side of the board and a 12v socket a 2 db9 connector on the long side to 8 of the gpio's each if theres enougn and a ground.

 

[Ranjib]

Yeah, was looking at the connector more than anything, this is why I ask, I gather we don't use the i2c for the 1 wire connector

I'd like a hat that is same size as pi3 b+ with two rj11 ports connected to 1 wire and on the small side of the board and a 12v socket a 2 db9 connector on the long side to 8 of the gpio's each if theres enougn and a ground.

I’m not sure if that board will be useful. Check out @Michael Lane ‘s build thread on his hat

 

[ScottBrew]

Yeah, was looking at the connector more than anything, this is why I ask, I gather we don't use the i2c for the 1 wire connector

I'd like a hat that is same size as pi3 b+ with two rj11 ports connected to 1 wire and on the small side of the board and a 12v socket a 2 db9 connector on the long side to 8 of the gpio's each if theres enougn and a ground.

That board is a convertor from 1-wire the to i2c bus, a 2 wire bus. How about a perma-proto board and some rj-45 and db-9 connectors? Like this https://www.sparkfun.com/products/643 and https://www.sparkfun.com/products/429 on top of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R69LXJU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Ryan115]

That board is a convertor from 1-wire the to i2c bus, a 2 wire bus. How about a perma-proto board and some rj-45 and db-9 connectors? Like this https://www.sparkfun.com/products/643 and https://www.sparkfun.com/products/429 on top of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R69LXJU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The RJ45 and DB9 Board connectors do not follow the typical .1" spacing of most proto boards. They could work, but you will have to get creative to make them fit.

 

[LionHeart2017]

That board is a convertor from 1-wire the to i2c bus, a 2 wire bus. How about a perma-proto board and some rj-45 and db-9 connectors? Like this https://www.sparkfun.com/products/643 and https://www.sparkfun.com/products/429 on top of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R69LXJU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah been looking at those[emoji106]
I do have a hat thats green lol but it don't have the rom part, but usable, I'm just torn how to go about it more than anything.

I want it neat and compact as possible and easy to take apart for anything that can/could go wrong as I've learnt with the tank, don't make things too permanent

I'm willing well maybe wanting to try and make a custom hat that's easy to use, maybe 2 hats or even 3 if needed to keep it easy secure connectors.

Need to work out exactly what to put on each hat and what I want out of it
Makes my head spin lol

 

[b4tn]

110/120 experts. You see a lot of power strips that have a power switch/ breaker with a reset side to the switch. I did a search for circuit breaker switches and could not find anything. I’m not even sure how to size something like that since all 8 outlets could potentially be pulling 80 amps if all are active. Or if one outlet is active it could be 0-10 amps. What’s the best way to fuse 8 outlets that have a max of 10 amps each?

 

[ScottBrew]

110/120 experts. You see a lot of power strips that have a power switch/ breaker with a reset side to the switch. I did a search for circuit breaker switches and could not find anything. I’m not even sure how to size something like that since all 8 outlets could potentially be pulling 80 amps if all are active. Or if one outlet is active it could be 0-10 amps. What’s the best way to fuse 8 outlets that have a max of 10 amps each?

I wouldn't call myself an expert, but have a pretty good grasp of the concepts. On my build, I didn't fuse the power module at all, relying on the house's circuit breaker. Only thing the 120v into the control module does is split after the input and right back out to the power module. The 2 fuses I did use are for the 120v into the power supplies themselves and used appropriate sized fuses. I did install a power meter which measures actual power usage and I can see how much each device uses. You can do the same thing with a Kill-A-Watt plug in. With everything on including heater, lights, skimmer, both pumps and powerheads I'm still only drawing about 7 amps. Well within the circuit breaker and wiring limits. You can put a fuse holder(s) in-line with your power and an appropriately sized fuse if inclined.

 

[b4tn]

And I was thinking just like you it’s really an extension to an already protected system. On top of that I have everything running off a GFI outlet on the wall which works (forgot to hook up a pump hose one day and it tripped the entire tank). I am just thinking safety.

 

[theatrus]

110/120 experts. You see a lot of power strips that have a power switch/ breaker with a reset side to the switch. I did a search for circuit breaker switches and could not find anything. I’m not even sure how to size something like that since all 8 outlets could potentially be pulling 80 amps if all are active. Or if one outlet is active it could be 0-10 amps. What’s the best way to fuse 8 outlets that have a max of 10 amps each?

If you tried pulling 80 amps from a strip, your 15 amp house breaker would pop first, as the house wiring is only rated to 15A (or if you’re in fancy new builds or commercial, you might have 20A). The breaker is only a failsafe to prevent overloading the power cord and wiring on the actual strip - the maximum draw from the strip is 10A, split between however many outlets are in use.

Fusing the inlet is cheaper (and more reliable) than a cheap push button breaker.

 

[LionHeart2017]

Without a fuse in each plug do you risk damage to all equipment connected if something does go wrong with say a heater as those are most unreliable thing we use, I'd say.

 

[theatrus]

Without a fuse in each plug do you risk damage to all equipment connected if something does go wrong with say a heater as those are most unreliable thing we use, I'd say.

A fuse only protects from overcurrent. I don’t think I’ve seen a failed heater go to a dead short condition which would trip that (usually the thermostat fails)

 

[LionHeart2017]

A fuse only protects from overcurrent. I don’t think I’ve seen a failed heater go to a dead short condition which would trip that (usually the thermostat fails)

But if the heater did fail badly like a dead short, what would happen to everything connected to the circuit, that's what I'm wondering

 

[Ranjib]

But if the heater did fail badly like a dead short, what would happen to everything connected to the circuit, that's what I'm wondering

Circuit of heater? or reef-pi?

 

[ScottBrew]

But if the heater did fail badly like a dead short, what would happen to everything connected to the circuit, that's what I'm wondering

If it reassures you (and now I'm thinking about it), you could fuse each circuit in the power box individually with a panel mount holder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WQPROM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and use a fuse sized for that circuit. A 300w heater, use a 5 amp fuse, so on.

There are cheaper fuse holders available, but I personally used this style for the quality and the fuse size. AGC is an inch size fuse, others use a metric size.

 

[Schreiber]

What's the best way of starting fresh? I've tried updating to 2.0 a few times now & nothing works no matter what I clear/reset/reload. Now when I got to http://localhost:8080, it just says ''Loading'' & sticks there forever.

 

[Ranjib]

What's the best way of starting fresh? I've tried updating to 2.0 a few times now & nothing works no matter what I clear/reset/reload. Now when I got to http://localhost:8080, it just says ''Loading'' & sticks there forever.

try, http://localhost

 

[Schreiber]

Thanks, that took care of it! I guess that's been a new change since the last time I updated!

 

[Ranjib]

Thanks, that took care of it! I guess that's been a new change since the last time I updated!

So, its working as expected now? I'd love to know your experience with reef-pi. If I recall correctly, you have been running it for few months now

 

[LionHeart2017]

One thing happened today Ranjib, I heard my skimmer cup top knocking, opened the cabinet and the cup is full of tank water and half a cup of dark green sludge that was there yesterday is gone. [emoji24]this was dinner time about 2pm, I'd been out so no ideas why, well not till my lights were about to go off.
So I'm expecting the lights to go off, nothing happened, the lights are timed by reef-pi[emoji3]
So I go to my dedicated tablet [emoji9] and see 10 hours the reef-pi has been running, so now I know I had a short power cut that filled my sump and then once power on my skimmer was about 5 inch too deep, problem solved.

But, is there a reason the lights wouldn't follow the turn off time, is it something to do with loosing power, I have no idea if it was for an hour or more without power, would that delay the timer?