reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[zab34]

The V2 hat has exactly the same functions as the V3 hat, the only difference being smaller connectors and Status LEDs on the board. For longevity, that V2 hat is the way to go.

I have to V2 hats and it is an awesome product and will easily be able to implement the functions like you listed.

As far as Raspberry Pi zero vs The 3B, if you are going to run it as a headless unit without a ton of sensors and equipment, the zero will work just fine. 3B just has more muscle and LAN capability.

I use 3Bs with my build.

What exactly is meant by headless? I assumed it was access via a browser regardless.

Will the mars aqua board work with a 2 channel, 300w 32” fixture?

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

What exactly is meant by headless? I assumed it was access via a browser regardless.

Will the mars aqua board work with a 2 channel, 300w 32” fixture?

Yes, meaning without rendering a GUI.

As for Mars aqua, assuming the wiring is the same as it is for 165w, then yes. There are several posts on the subject in this thread.

 

[Garold R Seifert]

I picked up a biocube led for really cheap and was wondering if anyone had any luck controlling the lights through reef pi? I looked around and couldn't find anything.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I picked up a biocube led for really cheap and was wondering if anyone had any luck controlling the lights through reef pi? I looked around and couldn't find anything.

Depends on the lights in question.

 

[zab34]

Yes, meaning without rendering a GUI.

As for Mars aqua, assuming the wiring is the same as it is for 165w, then yes. There are several posts on the subject in this thread.

Great. I saw a lot of threads outlining the 165w. Wasn’t sure if there was any limitations to the board when it came wattage or drivers.

If the Pi zero cannot render a GUI would I be able to swap it with a 3 in the future if I wanted to go that route?

Simple switch the hat and sd card?

 

[PHopkins]

Enable i2c using raspi-config, and reboot. Which version you are using? use 2.5 if you are unsure.

Thanks,
I updated from 2.4 to 2.5

The light test is working now. I still cannot update the username or password

 

[Ranjib]

Thanks,
I updated from 2.4 to 2.5

The light test is working now. I still cannot update the username or password

Start a thread, and folks can chime in.

 

[Ranjib]

Great. I saw a lot of threads outlining the 165w. Wasn’t sure if there was any limitations to the board when it came wattage or drivers.

If the Pi zero cannot render a GUI would I be able to swap it with a 3 in the future if I wanted to go that route?

Simple switch the hat and sd card?

You dont have to change the circuit, as the pin layout is same, just make sure you have enough room to physically place pi 3 , as it takes more space. Software wise, you can reuse the sd card, without reinstalling raspbian, but you have to reinstall reef-pi for pi 3 version. The packages are different for pi zero and pi 3. You data /configuration should persist, but I have not tested this out.

 

[zab34]

You dont have to change the circuit, as the pin layout is same, just make sure you have enough room to physically place pi 3 , as it takes more space. Software wise, you can reuse the sd card, without reinstalling raspbian, but you have to reinstall reef-pi for pi 3 version. The packages are different for pi zero and pi 3. You data /configuration should persist, but I have not tested this out.

Good to know.

 

[Garold R Seifert]

The build in LED lights on the bio cube

 

[Garold R Seifert]

Depends on the lights in question.

The built in LED lights on the bio cube

 

[Michael Lane]

What exactly is meant by headless? I assumed it was access via a browser regardless.

Will the mars aqua board work with a 2 channel, 300w 32” fixture?

Post a picture of the control boards in the light, or start a new thread and we can help. There are a couple versions of control for the black box lights. Some are PWM and some are analog/current controlled.

 

[Schreiber]

Is there a good write-up anywhere on setting up a float sensor? I've seen a few posts from @Bzar on the topic that had some useful info, but nothing in one place.

Edit, never mind, found what I wanted! Here it is, for anyone else looking to implement a failsafe:

This is the circuit for a mechanical switch.

 

[Schreiber]

Does anyone else have issues with their optical sensors retaining a drop of water on the tip? Mine still reads as submerged until I wipe it off, which is pretty much useless

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Does anyone else have issues with their optical sensors retaining a drop of water on the tip? Mine still reads as submerged until I wipe it off, which is pretty much useless

No, at least not yet; but I picked up a capacitance water level sensor just in case it starts being an issue.

 

[Ranjib]

Does anyone else have issues with their optical sensors retaining a drop of water on the tip? Mine still reads as submerged until I wipe it off, which is pretty much useless

I have encountered this once or twice when the sensor is not mounted in right angle. Frankly , I don’t see much advantage of using optical sensor over float switches, and planning to recommend float switch going forward from 3.0 onwards . The price difference is significant

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

@Ranjib have you tried the capacitance sensors? Mounted to the outside the tank so I would think there's little to no maintenance and the only failure point is if the sensor actually dies.

After playing round with optical and capacitance sensors over the last week, Im thinking about using capacitance sensor for the "low" and optical for "high" incase the low sensor fails and ATO starts over filling.

 

[Bigtrout]

I have encountered this once or twice when the sensor is not mounted in right angle. Frankly , I don’t see much advantage of using optical sensor over float switches, and planning to recommend float switch going forward from 3.0 onwards . The price difference is significant

I have to interject here. I have dealt with industrial controls my whole career. I am all for new technology, but in industrial settings guess what liquid sensors are used 95 percent of the time? Float switches, they are simple reliable and cheap. Other type sensors are still relegated to special use cases and are rather expensive and offer little benefit over simple float switches.
I think that for the average user, float switches are the way to go. So i agree with @Ranjib here.

 

[Ranjib]

I have to interject here. I have dealt with industrial controls my whole career. I am all for new technology, but in industrial settings guess what liquid sensors are used 95 percent of the time? Float switches, they are simple reliable and cheap. Other type sensors are still relegated to special use cases and are rather expensive and offer little benefit over simple float switches.
I think that for the average user, float switches are the way to go. So i agree with @Ranjib here.

Duly noted sir. Your insights are of immense value for this project. Thank you

 

[Ranjib]

@Ranjib have you tried the capacitance sensors? Mounted to the outside the tank so I would think there's little to no maintenance and the only failure point is if the sensor actually dies.

After playing round with optical and capacitance sensors over the last week, Im thinking about using capacitance sensor for the "low" and optical for "high" incase the low sensor fails and ATO starts over filling.

Not yet. I would love to play with them, you have a link for the specific sensor ? Preferably from amazon