reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[Reef Monkie]

question for the folks in here. I have four outlets on my system connected to a four channel relay. Everything is working fine. I am now looking to get a 8 channel relay and thinking about my wiring. Currently I have 1 black PC power cable that provide power to two outlets (so in my current setup I have two black power cables providing power to the outlets) I did that because I am new to electrical and wanted to make sure I didn't overload anything. If I want to power 8 outlets off one power cable is there a special cable I should look at or would one of those black pc cable handle it?

If by PC power cable you mean the cable that goes from the wall socket to the power supply then perhaps you will feel safer knowing that there are PC power supplies available that can deliver 1200W and 100 amp current on the 12V line to power monster PC builds. I doubt you are going to be using that much power so you should be safe.

 

[njtiger aquariums]

If by PC power cable you mean the cable that goes from the wall socket to the power supply then perhaps you will feel safer knowing that there are PC power supplies available that can deliver 1200W and 100 amp current on the 12V line to power monster PC builds. I doubt you are going to be using that much power so you should be safe.

Yes I did know that. Yes that is the cable I am talking about.

 

[Cary]

All relays charged, no voltage warning

@HM3105 What that the name of the that multi wire connector that you use outside of the relays?

thanks

 

[MaccaPopEye]

Still very much a work in progress. Got to work on the paint a bit, but its coming along. Next to get working is the temp prob. Very excited!

That's awesome mate! I literally just ordered a similar box (but larger to fit my 16 outlets) so I can finally get a move on with my build. Unfortunately it won't be here until mid November.

question for the folks in here. I have four outlets on my system connected to a four channel relay. Everything is working fine. I am now looking to get a 8 channel relay and thinking about my wiring. Currently I have 1 black PC power cable that provide power to two outlets (so in my current setup I have two black power cables providing power to the outlets) I did that because I am new to electrical and wanted to make sure I didn't overload anything. If I want to power 8 outlets off one power cable is there a special cable I should look at or would one of those black pc cable handle it?

I plan on having all 16 of my outlets wired to one of those cables that then goes to the wall. I'm pretty sure that the cables are rated the same as the ones in the wall (that's from what I can find in Aus at least), so it would be rated to 10A and all of my equipment together comes in just under 8 Amps so it should be ok. I'd say your draw from 8 outlets will be less than that so it will be fine.

If I'm wrong though I'd certainly appreciate being told so before my enclosure gets here

 

[Will Milberger]

That's awesome mate! I literally just ordered a similar box (but larger to fit my 16 outlets) so I can finally get a move on with my build. Unfortunately it won't be here until mid November.

What is the box you are going to use?

 

[Ranjib]

The recommended ac socket in the power bar build uses 5A fuse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Its probably worth mentioning to use different fuse based on workload/number of outlets

 

[MaccaPopEye]

What is the box you are going to use?

I'm going to use this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290mm-x-210...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I needed one that was 80mm thick or less otherwise it wouldn't fit in the electrical section on the side of my stand. And this was the biggest one I could find that was still only 80mm thick. I was initially going to build my own enclosure but decided it would be too difficult to keep it thin enough, strong, good looking and functional.

I plan to have 16 outlets on the front (13 Aus plugs and 3 Universal pugs so I can get rid of a couple of adapters). And then I want to put DC sockets on the top for the dimming of my 3 Mars Aqua lights (2 plugs each), 2 plugs for temp probes (sump & display) as well as leaving space for pH, salinity and ORP probes for if the ReefPi incorporates them. Then I have a tablet mounted on the wall next to the tank as a display screen.

Ranjib, the AC socket I got has a 10A fuse in it. Although thinking about my set up I may end up plugging my chiller directly into the wall which would mean that only 5Amps will be going through the controller. But at least I know the controller "should" still be fine with the chiller plugged in too.

 

[Ranjib]

Some progress on the documentation side. I have rearranged the guides in three different sections
- 1) General guides: Comprises of three guides (installation, wiring & electronics, housing) that are required for almost all builds. Most of them re prerequisite for all other guides and also referenced from the build guides.
- 2) Build guides: Where each guide focus on a specific sub system build (like temperature controller, lighting controller etc) or a specific feature (telemetry, touchscreen display etc)
- 3) Additional documentation: Anything else that is helpful or commonly asked topic that does not fit the above two categories. Examples include: troubleshooting, remote access, glossary, API, developer environment etc)


I have also added a guide on how to upgrade reef-pi under the "additional documentation " section. @Cary if you get time, please review

Happy reefing,

 

[Cary]

Ranjib, will do, though it might be tomorrow after work.

 

[Ranjib]

Ranjib, will do, though it might be tomorrow after work.

We are no hurry This is an opensource project, not a job thing. Take as much time as you need, and always put your family and work before this. I personally put couple of hours after dinner for reef-pi, and dont sweat if something is not done in 2 hours.

 

[Will Milberger]

I'm going to use this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290mm-x-210mm-x-80mm-Dustproof-IP65-Plastic-Enclosure-DIY-Junction-Box-White/311824802049?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I needed one that was 80mm thick or less otherwise it wouldn't fit in the electrical section on the side of my stand. And this was the biggest one I could find that was still only 80mm thick. I was initially going to build my own enclosure but decided it would be too difficult to keep it thin enough, strong, good looking and functional.

I plan to have 16 outlets on the front (13 Aus plugs and 3 Universal pugs so I can get rid of a couple of adapters). And then I want to put DC sockets on the top for the dimming of my 3 Mars Aqua lights (2 plugs each), 2 plugs for temp probes (sump & display) as well as leaving space for pH, salinity and ORP probes for if the ReefPi incorporates them. Then I have a tablet mounted on the wall next to the tank as a display screen.

Ranjib, the AC socket I got has a 10A fuse in it. Although thinking about my set up I may end up plugging my chiller directly into the wall which would mean that only 5Amps will be going through the controller. But at least I know the controller "should" still be fine with the chiller plugged in too.

Thanks!
Will

 

[Ryan115]

I just noticed I have the same issue. I have to set the timer to turn off, for it to turn on and vice-versa. under equipment tab, I can see the current state, if my fans are on, it says on here on the equipment tab.

Ranjib, So your system is not functioning this way?
On mine, when a timer is set to turn "off", the equipment tab will switch to On.
and vice-versa.

 

[Ranjib]

Ranjib, So your system is not functioning this way?
On mine, when a timer is set to turn "off", the equipment tab will switch to On.
and vice-versa.

Yeah, my system is not running this way, and it running how I expect it to. I think I know the easiest way to solve this:
- What if we have an option in the system tab for NO relay. If selected, reef-pi will assume a normally open relay as opposed to normally closed and reverse the on/off logic. This will solve both of your issue, but it wont be possible to define this at per outlet basis, it will be a single global settings impacting all relay channels.

 

[HM3105]

@HM3105 What that the name of the that multi wire connector that you use outside of the relays?

thanks

These
Home Depot - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-34-Yellow-In-Sure-4-Port-Connector-100-Pack-30-1034P/202894312

 

[Cary]

Thanks @HM3105.


All,

How do determine if a relay is normally open or normally closed? Will the packaging tell us this?

 

[HM3105]

Thanks @HM3105.


All,

How do determine if a relay is normally open or normally closed? Will the packaging tell us this?

Which ones are you using?

 

[Cary]

I purchased a solid state relay but haven't finished my power outlets yet. It was the manufacturer that Ranjib used.

 

[marspeed]

I purchased a solid state relay but haven't finished my power outlets yet. It was the manufacturer that Ranjib used.

should be both most have three terminals NO COMMON AND NC

 

[HM3105]

@Ranjib

How difficult would it be to add colors to the on and off state for the outlets?

 

[Ryan115]

Yeah, my system is not running this way, and it running how I expect it to. I think I know the easiest way to solve this:
- What if we have an option in the system tab for NO relay. If selected, reef-pi will assume a normally open relay as opposed to normally closed and reverse the on/off logic. This will solve both of your issue, but it wont be possible to define this at per outlet basis, it will be a single global settings impacting all relay channels.

The NO/NC option could work, however I think for it to be really useful it would need to be on a per outlet basis, but understandable if that is a major task.
However, I still am not sure that that would resolve the issue. As I am seeing it on my system, if an outlet is set to off in the timer the pin is set to 0.

If it is switched off (the button would say off after being clicked) the pin is set to 1.