- Joined
- Apr 16, 2016
- Messages
- 9,848
- Reaction score
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- Location
- Pleasant Hill, Concord
- What state or country do you live in
- California
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Power controller done.
I used gang boxes for the electrical outlets (one 2-gang and another 3-gang). There are 10 outlets but two are wired in parallel. There is a 5V switching power supply in there as well to power the relay using the optoisolator section of the board. I designed and 3D printed the enclosure. I have attached the STL files (the forums will only allow the upload of certain file types so it has .pdf extension, delete the PDF extension to use). I would recommend enlarging the headphone and DC jacks if you use these. However, I doubt any users will directly use these-- they are provided more for reference
The control input needs 9 wires (1 from each GPIO pin and 1 from 5V power from the pi)— since the Ethernet cable only has 8 wires, I added a headphone jack for the 9th wire. I wired the relay board using this schematic posted by dlloyd so the Rpi has proper isolation https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=102978.msg3102701#msg3102701
A couple more items I used from Lowe's for the AC wiring:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Quick-Wire-Connectors/999953938
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-...versal-Appliance-Cord-Extension-Cord/50142346
The whole thing is screwed together using M3 screws and that's about it. Happy to have this project done, will move on to making a main reef-pi brain enclosure now
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Power controller done.
I used gang boxes for the electrical outlets (one 2-gang and another 3-gang). There are 10 outlets but two are wired in parallel. There is a 5V switching power supply in there as well to power the relay using the optoisolator section of the board. I designed and 3D printed the enclosure. I have attached the STL files (the forums will only allow the upload of certain file types so it has .pdf extension, delete the PDF extension to use). I would recommend enlarging the headphone and DC jacks if you use these. However, I doubt any users will directly use these-- they are provided more for reference
The control input needs 9 wires (1 from each GPIO pin and 1 from 5V power from the pi)— since the Ethernet cable only has 8 wires, I added a headphone jack for the 9th wire. I wired the relay board using this schematic posted by dlloyd so the Rpi has proper isolation https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=102978.msg3102701#msg3102701
A couple more items I used from Lowe's for the AC wiring:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Quick-Wire-Connectors/999953938
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-...versal-Appliance-Cord-Extension-Cord/50142346
The whole thing is screwed together using M3 screws and that's about it. Happy to have this project done, will move on to making a main reef-pi brain enclosure now
![]()
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reef-pi does not support any i2c multiplexer yet. I am not clear why you need it, unless you have i2c address conflict , you can connect multiple ic in same i2c bus and things should work just fine as long as the individual ICs have different addresses. Pca9685 for example allow configuring it’s address as wellIs reefpi compatable with TCA9548A i2c multiplexer? I planned on using the i2c inputs for PH but was thinking it would tie up the 2 i2c pins. I was thinking it would be nice to have an lcd display or be able to interface with other components but still have reefpi talk to the ph circuit
Looks amazing![]()
Power controller done.
I used gang boxes for the electrical outlets (one 2-gang and another 3-gang). There are 10 outlets but two are wired in parallel. There is a 5V switching power supply in there as well to power the relay using the optoisolator section of the board. I designed and 3D printed the enclosure. I have attached the STL files (the forums will only allow the upload of certain file types so it has .pdf extension, delete the PDF extension to use). I would recommend enlarging the headphone and DC jacks if you use these. However, I doubt any users will directly use these-- they are provided more for reference
The control input needs 9 wires (1 from each GPIO pin and 1 from 5V power from the pi)— since the Ethernet cable only has 8 wires, I added a headphone jack for the 9th wire. I wired the relay board using this schematic posted by dlloyd so the Rpi has proper isolation https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=102978.msg3102701#msg3102701
A couple more items I used from Lowe's for the AC wiring:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Quick-Wire-Connectors/999953938
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-...versal-Appliance-Cord-Extension-Cord/50142346
The whole thing is screwed together using M3 screws and that's about it. Happy to have this project done, will move on to making a main reef-pi brain enclosure now
![]()
![]()
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. Kessil controller circuit (3 lights ) for the adafruit guide This is perhaps the prettiest reef-pi circuit yet. Kessil controller circuit (3 lights ) for the adafruit guide
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That's really smart, I'll be using them type boards in my build(eventually), do you know if anyone cracked controlling mars aqua 165w reef leds, I want to control them if I can ever find the correct way to do them.This is perhaps the prettiest reef-pi circuit yet. Kessil controller circuit (3 lights ) for the adafruit guide
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Noobs should work just fine. Dont go with 1.5 series download, get the 2.0.0-rc1 at least. rc builds (release candidates) are fairly stable. 1.5x builds will requires resetting the database in future upgradesCouple of quick NOOB questions. I'm getting ready to download reef pi. My pi came with Noobs not rasbian, will I be okay running just Noobs to get reef pi set up? If so is there an advantage to running Rasbian?
Also since 2.0 isn't out yet in it's final release, would I be better off just running 1.5 till 2.0 is finished then update then?
reef-pi does not support any i2c multiplexer yet. I am not clear why you need it, unless you have i2c address conflict , you can connect multiple ic in same i2c bus and things should work just fine as long as the individual ICs have different addresses. Pca9685 for example allow configuring it’s address as well
I think it has been done. I vaguely remember mars aqua as well as viperspectra was tried out to get working with reef-pi. These involve the common black box style control circuitThat's really smart, I'll be using them type boards in my build(eventually), do you know if anyone cracked controlling mars aqua 165w reef leds, I want to control them if I can ever find the correct way to do them.
Thank you! It is approximately 11.4cm (length) x 15.1cm (width) x 26cm (height). I made it a little taller than I needed to so you could probably decrease that dimensionThat's a very clean looking setup. what are the outside dimensions of the box? I want to build my box along those same lines but out of wood.
Which version of reef-pi you are using? You should be able to change the chart minimum and maximum in the corresponding temperature probe configuration under temperature tab. If the alert is not firing, its a bug. Let me cross check that, it may be possible we overlook the unit conversion during the alert check logic.Hello! I was able to setup the temp. probe during the weekend. I am using celcius for my temp. 2 questions:
1. Can the graduation of the graph be changed? currently it shows 90 as the highest...i would like to be 30
2. When will alerts be triggered? The graph is showing that temp is above my "alert above" value, but i have not received any email. Sending test email via telemetry works fine.

