reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[marekd1]

Quick question as I haven't found the answer easy enough. What's the best/easiest process to update to the newest version and keeping your current settings?

follow this process, just replace the version components...

Upgrade | reef-pi - An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi

A running reef-pi controller version is always visible from the dashboard footer. Determine appropriate reef-pi version based on raspberry pi (3 or zero) from the release page. Choose latest release if you are unsure. For this documentation we’ll use 1.0 release version on pi zero. Open a...

reef-pi.github.io

 

[Michael Lane]

Quick question as I haven't found the answer easy enough. What's the best/easiest process to update to the newest version and keeping your current settings?

Upgrading from 2.x to 3.x will require setting everything up again. The settings are not compatible between the 2 versions.

 

[Bzar]

Upgrading from 2.x to 3.x will require setting everything up again. The settings are not compatible between the 2 versions.

Thanks. I'm thinking 3.0 to 3.2. Does the upgrade keep your settings or do i have to backup/replace the db or do i have to write down and redo settings from scratch like 2.x to 3.x ? Just wondering from thoae that have done it.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Thanks. I'm thinking 3.0 to 3.2. Does the upgrade keep your settings or do i have to backup/replace the db or do i have to write down and redo settings from scratch like 2.x to 3.x ? Just wondering from thoae that have done it.

3.0 to 3.2 you don't need to reset.

 

[marekd1]

Thanks. I'm thinking 3.0 to 3.2. Does the upgrade keep your settings or do i have to backup/replace the db or do i have to write down and redo settings from scratch like 2.x to 3.x ? Just wondering from thoae that have done it.

all settings are retained. upgrade process is the same

 

[bishoptf]

I'm still working on my stand but getting closer, if the weather would co-operate would allow me to get more done. I know its been discussed a lot but one of the items I am trying to figure out is what is everyone using for ATO with reef-pi. My DT will only be 29G so it will not require a large ATO but would like to figure out what is one of the more reliable ones to look into, e.g., optical vs float etc.

Thanks

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I'm still working on my stand but getting closer, if the weather would co-operate would allow me to get more done. I know its been discussed a lot but one of the items I am trying to figure out is what is everyone using for ATO with reef-pi. My DT will only be 29G so it will not require a large ATO but would like to figure out what is one of the more reliable ones to look into, e.g., optical vs float etc.

Thanks

I'd probably get a small pump or even a dosing pump. I'm using a tunze osmolator pump on my 120, but that would be overkill for a 29g tank lol. With a 5g jug you'd be set for a while.

On mine I have to refill the 5g bucket every 3 days or so. I need a bigger reservoir.

 

[Michael Lane]

I'm still working on my stand but getting closer, if the weather would co-operate would allow me to get more done. I know its been discussed a lot but one of the items I am trying to figure out is what is everyone using for ATO with reef-pi. My DT will only be 29G so it will not require a large ATO but would like to figure out what is one of the more reliable ones to look into, e.g., optical vs float etc.

Thanks

Optical, mechanical, and capacitive sensors can all be used with reef-pi. I think mechanical float sensor makes the most sense unless there are other restrictions.

Here's how I understand the differences between them.

Optical
+ No moving parts to get jammed by snails or algae
- Water drops can stick to the sensor causing false readings

Capacitive
+ Can be mounted on the outside of the reservoir
- Somewhat difficult to get lined up exactly where you want it since the trigger point is somewhere in the sensor

Mechanical
+ Inexpensive
+ 2 can be wired in series to provide fail safe shut off
+ Easy to identify switching point
- Snails and algae can cause the switch to stick

 

[bishoptf]

Optical, mechanical, and capacitive sensors can all be used with reef-pi. I think mechanical float sensor makes the most sense unless there are other restrictions.

Here's how I understand the differences between them.

Optical
+ No moving parts to get jammed by snails or algae
- Water drops can stick to the sensor causing false readings

Capacitive
+ Can be mounted on the outside of the reservoir
- Somewhat difficult to get lined up exactly where you want it since the trigger point is somewhere in the sensor

Mechanical
+ Inexpensive
+ 2 can be wired in series to provide fail safe shut off
+ Easy to identify switching point
- Snails and algae can cause the switch to stick

Will have a 20G long sump, maybe go with a mechanical float with an optical backup. So many things that I am working on but trying to collect things to have on hand so when I get to that point I can just continue along. I have one float already will need to figure out what else is needed to make it work.

 

[bishoptf]

Hey Mike I ordered all of your parts to make the reef-pi build easy since I have so many things to work on. One question, for the 29G is deeper than the 20L, looking at the mars aqua lights with your controller, trying to decide if I should go with the 300W vs the 165w light. I know that will be more than needed but I figure I can always dial it down but wanted to get your opinion since I know you are running a bunch of the 165w versions.

Thanks

 

[Michael Lane]

Hey Mike I ordered all of your parts to make the reef-pi build easy since I have so many things to work on. One question, for the 29G is deeper than the 20L, looking at the mars aqua lights with your controller, trying to decide if I should go with the 300W vs the 165w light. I know that will be more than needed but I figure I can always dial it down but wanted to get your opinion since I know you are running a bunch of the 165w versions.

Thanks

I'm not sure how to effectively have the optical as a back up to the mechanical float switch since they operate in fundamentally different ways. Lots of people have done different things though, so I'm sure it's possible.

I have a 165w fixture over a 20 gallon tank. I don't feel like I have any problems with the depth, but I feel like it doesn't have sufficient spread to the sides of the tank. I'm eventually upgrading my 20 and 15 gallon tanks to 29 gallons and I'm not sure if I'm going to change the lights.

 

[Ranjib]

Quick question as I haven't found the answer easy enough. What's the best/easiest process to update to the newest version and keeping your current settings?

If you are upgrading into major version 1 to 2 or 2 to 3, your data will be lost (actually not lost, but not usable/understandable by newer reef-pi). Within a major version , Minor upgrades should be seamless (1.2->1.3 or 2.1 to 2.4 ) . This is we try to preserve, but occasionally we do end up having bugs in minor version upgrades that may lead to some data inconsistency, generally we path those urgently.

we are relatively new project, and over time (post version 5) I would expect the major version upgrades to be seamless as well

 

[Ranjib]

I'm sorry to ask this again, but does anyone have a link for the smart plugs that will work with a reef-pi?

Only kasa smartplugs (hs103,105,110,300) are supported. We plan to have dli power strip sometime this year as part of 3.x development , I already have a pretty good idea of what we need from @dmolavi

 

[lilgrounchuck]

Hey Mike I ordered all of your parts to make the reef-pi build easy since I have so many things to work on. One question, for the 29G is deeper than the 20L, looking at the mars aqua lights with your controller, trying to decide if I should go with the 300W vs the 165w light. I know that will be more than needed but I figure I can always dial it down but wanted to get your opinion since I know you are running a bunch of the 165w versions.

Thanks

I just finished my build with his boards and they made everything super easy. If you go with the 300 make sure you get extra 4 wire jst connector. The hookups and pinouts are the same as the 165, but it’s a longer distance between the potentiometers and drivers so the cables won’t both reach the pwm board. You’ll have cut the end off one and splice in a length of wire and new connector to get it to reach.

 

[thoeffe]

Do any of you know if it is safe to port forward your pi with the port you choose in reef-pi settings so I can access it remotely without vnc or Tor. Or is this not safe when it comes to network security?

 

[ph123uk]

Hi Guys,

Given that its now literally impossible to find any answers to questions due to the thread being so long, with even search picking up too many results, I wonder if someone could answer me a question please.

Is it possible, to make a single reef-pi that will control 8 sockets, 3 dosing pumps, a PH electrode, and ATO without using multiple hats / numerous pi's? I have a reef-pi currently built that controls a single vipar spectra, but since changing lights its simply defunct right now.

 

[AquaRaider44]

Hi Guys,

Given that its now literally impossible to find any answers to questions due to the thread being so long, with even search picking up too many results, I wonder if someone could answer me a question please.

Is it possible, to make a single reef-pi that will control 8 sockets, 3 dosing pumps, a PH electrode, and ATO without using multiple hats / numerous pi's? I have a reef-pi currently built that controls a single vipar spectra, but since changing lights its simply defunct right now.

Yes see my thread or I'm switching to a goby https://www.tindie.com/stores/ranthalion/ which is way better. I already use his Mars aqua boards and pH now getting the goby

 

[Ranjib]

Do any of you know if it is safe to port forward your pi with the port you choose in reef-pi settings so I can access it remotely without vnc or Tor. Or is this not safe when it comes to network security?

If you are port forwarding , you probably don’t need Vnc or tor. I do it always when I’m on vacation, but I do it only on-demand. I use google WiFi and that allows me to only open up the port when I need it and then close it back. Use https .

 

[Ranjib]

Hi Guys,

Given that its now literally impossible to find any answers to questions due to the thread being so long, with even search picking up too many results, I wonder if someone could answer me a question please.

Is it possible, to make a single reef-pi that will control 8 sockets, 3 dosing pumps, a PH electrode, and ATO without using multiple hats / numerous pi's? I have a reef-pi currently built that controls a single vipar spectra, but since changing lights its simply defunct right now.

You really don’t have to ask question in the main thread. You can ask question in separate thread/post and tag it with #reefpi to get our attention. Worst case, if you don’t get attention, just at mention us.

Coming back to your question. Yes.

 

[lilgrounchuck]

Do any of you know if it is safe to port forward your pi with the port you choose in reef-pi settings so I can access it remotely without vnc or Tor. Or is this not safe when it comes to network security?

It'll be as safe as forwarding anything else not running a host based security solution on it. Depending on the router you have, you may want to look into hosting your own VPN server on it, and connecting back to your home network through the VPN. There are a lot of manufacturers that have that feature natively built in. Some Asus routers come with a service to register your own domain name for free for this purpose so you don't have to worry about your ISP changing your WAN address on you. If the one you currently have doesn't support running a VPN server on it, you can look and see if it will support running a DD WRT build. I'm not a fan of just forwarding things through my edge devices, I prefer remote connections to terminate at the edge and get inspected before being allowed inside the network.