Reef tank build from day one

First attempt at aquascaping. Here were my goals.

  • I wanted a fair amount of open white sand.
  • I wanted some negative space to give the sense of depth
  • While it's a reef tank I also want a good environment for the fish.
  • Repeat, the fish are also important so lots of swim space for them
  • Hiding spaces for the small guys and the shrimp
  • Flat spots in the 1/3 - 2/3 depth for coral
  • And a big open sand spot for the eventual large showpiece clam
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Update

A lot has happened since the last post.
  • Decided to use the ecotech marine RMS mounts for my three lights. What a disappointment. I should have looked harder before getting these. They have potential but they are in no way going on my tank. I am going to use some of the parts to make a proper, sturdy and better mount. I will post pics of it all once done but shame on ecotech for this product. Shame...
  • I have most of my fish stocking plan done. At least I know what will go in first.
  • I realized I have a lot to do and learn about QT setups and process so, well, more to do, that's ok since that's kind of fun for me.
  • I decided to use the MP40 power head. A little in the pricey side but they appear to be well enough red and I like the fact that there are no words in the tank and we'll it has been decided. Now it's just if I can get away with two or if I will need three. I think three but we shall see.
  • I got my glass pieces from the glass shop and siloconed them into the sump tank. What did I learn? I suck at silicone but it will hold water and the sections won't leak. Function over form.
  • I got my RODI system installed in the garage with the help from my friend. I went with the 4 stage water saver with a secondary DI cartridge. This is due to me being on a well so chlorine is not an issue but read and saw that using dual DI canisters is a good way to use the media up more efficiently.
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  • I will be using Apex Neptune to run the tank.
  • Due to height limitations I needed a short skimmer. Will be going with a simplicity 540 DC. Meets my height requirements if the stand and DC motor.
  • If all goes well I may be ready for water middle of next week..
 
So I solved the light mount problem with some 80/20 stock bar. Still not happy with ecotech but actually used all the pieces in the solution so it's not about the cost it's just the poor engineering that went into their mount system. There is no way they didn't know this.

Anyways. I used a bar between the mount placed on the side of the tank and then used the extension arms off the new bar placed where I wanted them. The result is a very rigid mount with all the lights even and aligned with each other. All that is left is to paint it Black to match the lights and mount arms.

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After staring at the tank the last week or so I decided the aquascaping needed to change. Better to do it now while its dry that mess with it later. I will post some pictures later of what it looks like now.

I did get all the plumbing done and am filling the tank today!!!

Running a pump and hose from the mixing tank in the garage while the RODI system is filling the RODI tank. Keeping the system very busy the past few days as we are filling both my 220g tank and my friends 120G tank. The RODI system has paid for itself already for sure.

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All full. The startup is nerve racking.... i think i have it all running smoothly but am getting a ton of micro bubbles from the return. I may have to put some foam in there to beak it up.

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The cleaning cycle has finished. The tank is drained and i am going to start playing with my pile of rocks. Now, i recieved the rock as part of the tank purchase and the previous owner said it was cleaned and power washed. It is mostly white in color but the question now is should i do anything with it before using it in the tank?

Can i place it in the tank and fill with fresh water and clean it like i did the tank? I have the time as i am working out the sump choices right now.

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Funny he was using this rock in a freshwater tank? It looks like coral rock which is usually bad for freshwater unless you want really hard water for some cichlids. Also too sharp and freshwater fish will get all cut up.
 
Funny he was using this rock in a freshwater tank? It looks like coral rock which is usually bad for freshwater unless you want really hard water for some cichlids. Also too sharp and freshwater fish will get all cut up.
He used the tank for freshwater but not the coral. The coral was just sitting in buckets.
 
Started the cycle this afternoon. I am using the fishless dosing amonium chloride by fritz aquatics. It brought the tank amonia levels instantly up to 2+. I then added Seed in the recommended dose for the first day. Now we wait to see how it all gets going.
 
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Two days and no leaking or overflowing or emergency shutdowns!

I will admit to making one serious mistake in my plumbing. I used ball valves for the drains. Yes, I knew better but rationalized not getting nice gate valves and I was wrong! Lol. Lesson learned the hard way and new gate valves are already ordered.

I did however put unions everywhere so it will be easy to take out just the sections with the ball valves and replace them when the new gate valves some in.

Tuning a Herbie setup is more time consuming than I expected. Everything upsets the balance. Move powehead, re tune drains, change power head settings, retune drains, move returns (location line), yup, return drains, ugh. I assume that this will settle down once I get it all setup and I stop messing with it
 
Oh, added another bag of sand to finish up the substrate. Made it all cloudy but the filter sock polished it all up nicely and it was crystal clear again this morning. Even empty it's nice to look at.

Also mounted the Kessel light over the fuge. Cheto and other alge should grow like mad under that light...

This week I plan on picking my skimmer and getting the last of the equipment in order. Apex gear like ATO, leak detectors, wireless module for lights and power heads, skimmer, last power head and a few other small items to wrap it all up.

I don't have enough room for it all under the tank so we are going with a nice wood cabinet that will house all the gear next to the tank. May need a few extension cords but it will be nice and clean under the tank.
 
First good signs that the cycle has started. Tank was filled on 10/21. I dosed amonium chloride and used Seed to kick start it all. I have all dry rock and no live rock in the tank. Last night, 10/25 I had the first measured Nitrite and also some nitrate!. Amonia is still high due to the initial dosing but I am monitoring it every other day.
 
First good signs that the cycle has started. Tank was filled on 10/21. I dosed amonium chloride and used Seed to kick start it all. I have all dry rock and no live rock in the tank. Last night, 10/25 I had the first measured Nitrite and also some nitrate!. Amonia is still high due to the initial dosing but I am monitoring it every other day.
Isn't it nice watching chemisty/biology at work?!?!?
 
Yup! I as so excited over a liquid that turned pink... Go figure right? Now I need to green one to go clear.

My first fish, some pajama cardinals arrive friday. They will go into the QT tank until they are deemed worthy of the DT. Timing should be right in the money as long as they are healthy... So very exciting times now.

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I really love the way you had the Tonga rock island in the middle before you changed it. Hope you don't mind, but I am going to steal that idea for my new build. Do you remember how many pounds of rock that was?
 
I do not, haven't weighed any of it. I used what was necessary for the look I was going for.

That Tonga island was a topic of debate for sure. I liked it allot and it had potential for being a good hideout for someone. I changed it looking for a more natural look. In the new layout it looks like it fell over naturally. The Tonga bridges the two islands now. Hard to see in the pictures. I will have to take a new one.

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I do not, haven't weighed any of it. I used what was necessary for the look I was going for.

That Tonga island was a topic of debate for sure. I liked it allot and it had potential for being a good hideout for someone. I changed it looking for a more natural look. In the new layout it looks like it fell over naturally. The Tonga bridges the two islands now. Hard to see in the pictures. I will have to take a new one.

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I'll have a little more room to work with front to back so that should work to my advantage. I want more height and more clutter from the Tonga in the middle with coral islands on either side.

I do like the new layout though, it does look more natural. Almost like trees that have fallen in a valley.
 
Sounds like a plan Brew!

A ton of activity this week on the tank. I received my skimmer, more power heads and the Apex system. Spent a whole vacation day wiring it all into a cabinet that sits next to the tank. There was just not enough room under the tank for all the sums and stuff that has to go under there.

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I installed the ATO system as well and take doing it job nicely. The 24vdc power cord was not long enough so had to order that. All the other stuff was long enough and reached the cabinet just fine. It's all hooked into the system and it's pretty cool to have full control. Next is a sump and tank camera for when I am not home. Yes, I love tech....
 
And I continued work on the RODI tank system. I put a uniseal in the base if each barrel with a ball valve and a hose adapter. I bought a simple external pump that I can then attach to either straight RODI or to the second tank which is mixed salt water. The pump also can transfer from one tank to the other and I have a three way valvke from the RODI system to direct water to either of the barrels. I also put a big power head and heater in the salt tank to keep it warm and moving. I may put one in the RODI water tanks as well but that's a luxury choice at this time.
 
RODI system now has spikits on both barells. I can get RODI or premixed salt water anytime I need it. Made a simple patch hose that connects the pump to either tank. Then I just use to hose to get it in the house. Simple and cheap.
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Now the bad news. 40g part of my sump cracked. I heard it snap the other day but didn't notice the crack until Saturday night. No real leaking so no damage. I know what caused it and I questioned it when I connected the plastic tub. The walls of the tub have a sight taper. This put stress on the tank and it finally gave in.
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The fix? Back to Petco for dollar per gallon and a new 40g for the sump and a 29g for the refugium. Used the same bulkhead and union, glad I put a union there. Drilled two more holes and it's now just curing. The alignment is straight and level now.
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I took the opportunity to address a few items I didn't like in the old sump. I added another wier for the bubble wrap between the Skinner and return pump. It was an under over and now it's an under over under setup.

I also moved the bulkhead to the rear so it wouldn't dump right on top of the Skinner body. I can now pipe it down into the water to quiet that part down.

Busy weekend for sure. Spent all day Sunday rebuilding it. Kept the main tank going on just the power heads. Amonia keeps dropping fast and nitrites and nitrates are both present. I will measure again tonight both before and after refilling the sump and starting the flow again. The system holds about 35 to 40 gallons of water so that should be like a good water change. I would expect all the water parameters to drop. I have the new salt water already mixing and up to temp to match the tank. RODI system is a must to have as this would have sucked to drag buckets fom the LFS....
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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