Reefer 250 V3 Sump adapter for Klir 4

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

Hello I just wanted to let you know that I designed an adapter and it is available on Thingverse. I am currently using V2 of the design and it works and fits great. It does take many hours to 3d print. I tried selling on Ebay for a month and only sold a single one of the first version so here it is free.

It is a very tight fit in my V3 sump and can be used immediately after installing. The Klir 4 works perfect for me but I had to raise the weir as high as it will go in order to keep the bottom of the Klir under water. If you skip this skip it will not function as well as possible- I did that for 6 months and had a dirty sump from the bypass.

Enjoy.

 

[blaxsun]

You should post a few images of your creation! Is this the correct link?

Klir Di-4 Adapter Plate Red Sea Reefer 250 V3 Sump by MTHern

I spent many hours mocking this up many different ways in Tinkercad. I spent over 100 hours printing many test versions. I sold one on Ebay that really impressed the buyer who has used it for 6 months now but not much interest there so here it is for free. It is a very tight drop in fit. I use...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

You should post a few images of your creation! Is this the correct link?

Klir Di-4 Adapter Plate Red Sea Reefer 250 V3 Sump by MTHern

I spent many hours mocking this up many different ways in Tinkercad. I spent over 100 hours printing many test versions. I sold one on Ebay that really impressed the buyer who has used it for 6 months now but not much interest there so here it is for free. It is a very tight drop in fit. I use...

www.thingiverse.com

Yes that is it. The single ebay buyer said I should be a machinist the fit was so precise lol. I did it in tinkercad. Wasted a lot of plastic but had fun.

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

Hello I just wanted to let you know that I designed an adapter and it is available on Thingverse. I am currently using V2 of the design and it works and fits great. It does take many hours to 3d print. I tried selling on Ebay for a month and only sold a single one of the first version so here it is free.

It is a very tight fit in my V3 sump and can be used immediately after installing. The Klir 4 works perfect for me but I had to raise the weir as high as it will go in order to keep the bottom of the Klir under water. If you skip this skip it will not function as well as possible- I did that for 6 months and had a dirty sump from the bypass.

Enjoy.

FYI - There is 7 holes in this latest version and these holes help to keep the level of water correct. I had a version without the holes and it did not work as well. I did fill the second hole from the left or sixth hole from the right on the one I am using. I filled it with some two part epoxy I had for frags. The reason I filled that one little hole is because I replaced my return pump with a stronger pump and that one hole was causing splashing sounds. I didn't like the sounds in my man cave but may not bother you. Crazy that one little hole was causing the sounds. I will remove that hole in next design.

 

[jpg001]

FYI - There is 7 holes in this latest version and these holes help to keep the level of water correct. I had a version without the holes and it did not work as well. I did fill the second hole from the left or sixth hole from the right on the one I am using. I filled it with some two part epoxy I had for frags. The reason I filled that one little hole is because I replaced my return pump with a stronger pump and that one hole was causing splashing sounds. I didn't like the sounds in my man cave but may not bother you. Crazy that one little hole was causing the sounds. I will remove that hole in next design.

Hello, I downloaded your file, thank you. I will have the adapter printed in France.
What material do you need? I have the choice between:
PETG
PLA
UTP
and others but expensive.
I am also asked to specify:
filling from 10% to 100% ?
finish 0.2 or 0.1 mm (0.08 or 0.04 inches) ?

Finally, another possibility, would you be willing to make the adapter with your printer and send it to my family in Ithaca State of New York?

 

[jpg001]

An other question :
do you work in mm or inches? When I transfer the file to a manufacturer, it looks very large: 215.9 × 201.61 × 54 mm.

Should it be scaled?

can I see a photo of the adapter in place.
I have the impression that it covers more in width than the caddy

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

Hello, I downloaded your file, thank you. I will have the adapter printed in France.
What material do you need? I have the choice between:
PETG
PLA
UTP
and others but expensive.
I am also asked to specify:
filling from 10% to 100% ?
finish 0.2 or 0.1 mm (0.08 or 0.04 inches) ?

Finally, another possibility, would you be willing to make the adapter with your printer and send it to my family in Ithaca State of New Y

Hello - I printed in black PETG and at .20 mm and 100% infill. I am sure you could do less infill I just wanted it as solid as possible. I really do not want to print those anymore to be honest. I printed a couple dozen different versions getting it finalized. I still need to fill the hole I mentioned. I can fill that hole and repost on Thingverse or you can do what I did and fill it with some coral epoxy you may have. I will snap a picture. I just changed my fleece roll for the first time since the redesign and it lasted 6-8 weeks I know for sure 6 weeks but I think it has been 8. Very important to raise the weir all the way up to keep the water level about an inch below the tray.

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

An other question :
do you work in mm or inches? When I transfer the file to a manufacturer, it looks very large: 215.9 × 201.61 × 54 mm.

Should it be scaled?

can I see a photo of the adapter in place.
I have the impression that it covers more in width than the caddy

It is in mm and I will post a photo. It goes all the way around the area where the return pipes are in order to build up the wall height for it to work right. That size seems right. It is a long print time.

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

 

[jpg001]

Thanks for these informations.
I can get the adapter for €65.55 postage included in PETG or €74.60 in ABS in Portugal, with 80% infill and 80% finish.

"I still need to fill the hole I mentioned. I can fill that hole and repost on Thingverse or you can do what I did and fill it with some coral epoxy you may have."

What hole?

"Very important to raise the weir all the way up to keep the water level about an inch below the tray."

I don't understand what you are doing.

Finally, do you remove the support from the micon bags and the support glued in a U to the windows?

Thanks very much.

 

[jpg001]

Sorry, one more question.
Where did you place your RO water tank?

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

Nothing will be cut out. Remove slide out sock holder. I do not use the top off I use 15 Gallon IM top off tank next to stand. I am sure you could even print at 15 - 30% if it is cheaper

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

I may print it in PETG and mail to you. SEND me a private message. If you like it you can pay for shipping and material plus a few dollars.

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

I may print it in PETG and mail to you. SEND me a private message. If you like it you can pay for shipping and material plus a few dollars.

I will print it after filling the one hole and I will mail it to you in the United States to your family for free and you can send me some money if you like it and it works out for you.

 

[jpg001]

You are really nice. But I have to pay you before the production of at least the supplies. It's normal.

Sorry, but I have an idea. Suppose I move the downpipe valve to put it horizontally at the top at the bottom of the cabinet, I free up space since there is only the downpipe without a valve left. Maybe I could keep my RO water tank on top if the motor is on the left near the wall of the cabinet.
If I place the engine on the left side I would have 190 mm from the edge of my RO water tank to the wall of the cabinet. I will try to make a drawing so that you understand and also a cardboard model afterwards.

 

[jpg001]

Hello, here is my badly drawn idea by removing the valve at this place because it interferes and keeping the RO tank at the top. I positioned the RO water tank in the background but in fact it would be above.

 

[noobster]

Nice design!
1. Whats the purpose of the ledge, circled in red?
2. Suggestion for the seven holes: instead of making them square thru holes, recommend making them with rounded downwards so the water flows down the wall to reduce noise/splash.

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

The ledge fits over a ridge in the sock holder making it a drop in , no modification design. I could probably drop that ledge some more or make it smaller. Feel free to modify anything you want. I am using Tinkercad and a little tired of tinkering with this. It is working perfect for me.

Someone with knowledge of Fusion could take this and really clean it up with some nice curves.

 

[I.AM.MR.MIKE]

I ran one of these without the holes for months. The holes just relieve some back pressure and help to keep the water from overflowing the back walls at times. I also siliconed this into my sump to keep any bypass to a minimum.