Return pump question

Reef_Tank_Fan_SC

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I am currently building a 10 gal sump tank for my 54 gal corner display tank. I am going to be running a Reef Octopus classic 100int protein skimmer. The plan is to have a 4 chamber sump with a skimmer, a fuge, bubble trap, and return pump. My question is what size return pump do you suggest for this sump? I have looked at a couple different one but with this being my first sump build I really don't know what to go with. All help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
 
Your overflow size and flow needs might dictate the answer. Your best bet might be a DC pump so you can vary the flow to give you that sweet spot. I would guess a Jeabo DCT 3000 might be a good option.
 
Old school used to suggest 10 times the system volume in turn-over rate per hour. A better approach would be 5-6 times turn-over to provide sufficient "contact time" in your sump. Use power heads in the DT for additional flow. Allow 20% reduction for frictional losses and a 3-4 ft head (manufacturers quote zero head for their idealized pump outputs). So, I suggest looking for a quality pump in the 300-400 GPH range. Also think about whether you will tap into the return line to run a carbon/GFO reactor at some point. Just my thoughts.
 
Yeah, that's what I figured. I was thinking about putting ball valves on the incoming plumbing from overflow and the same on the backend from the return pump. That way I could play with the incoming and outgoing also. I do want to be able to control the speed in the pump though. Last thing I want is it running 100% open 24/7. Seem like it would crap out on me faster that way. Just a thought though.
 
Old school used to suggest 10 times the system volume in turn-over rate per hour. A better approach would be 5-6 times turn-over to provide sufficient "contact time" in your sump. Use power heads in the DT for additional flow. Allow 20% reduction for frictional losses and a 3-4 ft head (manufacturers quote zero head for their idealized pump outputs). So, I suggest looking for a quality pump in the 300-400 GPH range. Also think about whether you will tap into the return line to run a carbon/GFO reactor at some point. Just my thoughts.
That's a good point. I haven't thought about that at all. Probably be in an upgrade before I get into that but you never know. One thing I do know is that next time I won't go with a corner tank.(not as much room under the stand)
 
I would caution you on adding a valve on your overflow. Good way to cause a flood if water enters the DT faster than drains. What type of drain sys are you planning, e.g., Durso, Herbi, etc?
Quality return pumps will run at 100% 24/7 for years before failure. Especially with proper maintenance.
 
Yeah, that's what I figured. I was thinking about putting ball valves on the incoming plumbing from overflow and the same on the backend from the return pump. That way I could play with the incoming and outgoing also. I do want to be able to control the speed in the pump though. Last thing I want is it running 100% open 24/7. Seem like it would crap out on me faster that way. Just a thought though.

I'm always hesitant about gating the return line solely because of the extra wear on the pump
 
Common sense tells me that it's only gonna overflow into the sump as fast as I pump it back into the tank from the sump. So on that note I really don't need the valve at the incoming if I don't have at the back... right?
 
So maybe just put it on the incoming?I don't wanna move the water to fast and bypass the fuge to quickly so maybe a low gph pump is better? Idk honestly

That is one way to do it. People do gate the return line and I have no empirical data saying not to do it - but my brain relates the added resistance to unnecessary wear and tear.

One of the pros about the DC return pumps is the variable speed, though, and you should have no problems using it to adjust if you go that route.
 
So maybe just put it on the incoming?I don't wanna move the water to fast and bypass the fuge to quickly so maybe a low gph pump is better? Idk honestly

See my comment above. Let the return flow drive the overall flow. Do no restrict the drains or the DT will flood. If anything, T off the return line and dump water back to the sump to reduce flow. Control this with a valve. Perhaps run it thru a carbon reactor.
 
Common sense tells me that it's only gonna overflow into the sump as fast as I pump it back into the tank from the sump. So on that note I really don't need the valve at the incoming if I don't have at the back... right?

This is true, with some considerations - like pipe diameter and overflow style. Some overflows, like the bean animal, you gate the drains which result in quiet operation...but now I'm getting into the weeds and off topic.
 
See my comment above. Let the return flow drive the overall flow. Do no restrict the drains or the DT will flood. If anything, T off the return line and dump water back to the sump to reduce flow. Control this with a valve. Perhaps run it thru a carbon reactor.
Where should I dumped it to though? Back to the skimmer end or the fuge?
 
See my comment above. Let the return flow drive the overall flow. Do no restrict the drains or the DT will flood. If anything, T off the return line and dump water back to the sump to reduce flow. Control this with a valve. Perhaps run it thru a carbon reactor.

This is another good solution.

Where should I dumped it to though? Back to the skimmer end or the fuge?

Anywhere really, unless you're using it to run like, a BP reactor - which people now tend to position the output directly to the skimmer.
 
I dump mine right back to the return pump section. You want to minimize flow in the refugium to maximize contact time.
Now in my layout the return pump chamber is the last one in my sump. So if I dumped it there then it will not cycle back across my fuge. It will just go right back up into the tank. Is that where it needs to be going after the carbon filter. Also, would it be better to have the carbon filter built into the incoming line?
 
Now in my layout the return pump chamber is the last one in my sump. So if I dumped it there then it will not cycle back across my fuge. It will just go right back up into the tank. Is that where it needs to be going after the carbon filter. Also, would it be better to have the carbon filter built into the incoming line?

It will eventually.

Water will, according to this example, travel from the return pump to the 't' where one leg will return directly into the tank and the other will be able to feed a reactor of some type then back to the return pump section where it will go back to the tank.

The same water will not get "stuck" in a certain place - as liquid doesn't quite work like that. It will disseminate throughout.

Having a reactor on the drain line, I think is what you are referring to with the "incoming line", is a bad idea. Imagine having to close a drain line every time you have to change media! That would be an enormous pain.
 
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It will eventually.

Water will, according to this example, will travel from the return pump to the 't' where one leg will return directly into the tank and the other will be able to feed a reactor of some type then back to the return pump section where it will go back to the tank.

The same water will not get "stuck" in a certain place - as liquid doesn't quite work like that. It will disseminate throughout.

Having a reactor on the drain line, I think is what you are referring to with the "incoming line", is a bad idea. Imagine having to close a drain line every time you have to change media! That would be an enormous pain.
The drain line is what I ment and that is the exact answer I was looking for my man. Thanks. I appreciate it.
 
This may be a dumb question but I do need a filter of some sort on the drain correct? Do I need a compartment for that or should I just run the drain into a sock filter and call it a day?
 
This may be a dumb question but I do need a filter of some sort on the drain correct? Do I need a compartment for that or should I just run the drain into a sock filter and call it a day?
And I have also head that I don't need to use acrylic baffles with a glass tank. Any truth to that and just out of curiosity do you know why? I just want to make sure I have everything right prior to starting my assembly of this sump. LoL
 

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