Return pump to big? Vectra L1

[butrflynlambie]

I purchased a return pump before I bought a tank. I have the tank now. It's a 90gal 35x24x24. Smaller than I intended but my budget shrank after my basement renovation.

The L1 has a 1 inch port, while the tank itself has a 1/2 inch bulkhead. I will need to reduce from 1" to 3/4" to 1/2" on my plumbing to match the bulkhead.

It is a DC pump so I was thinking I could dial it down, but after installing the bulkhead I am questioning if the pump is just too big...

Will I have any issue with using the L1 or do I need to find something smaller.

Anyone think this is ok or am I going to be a problem?

 

[andrew james]

1/2 seems really really small. For a 90 gallon tank?

 

[Idoc]

1/2" drain line? That sounds a little odd. What's the diameter of the drilled hole after you remove the bulkhead?

You could always re-drill the holes to allow for a 1" drain.

Or, maybe run two 1/2" drains to the sump and use an over the top return line... but, you won't have the option for an emergency drain line? Just food for thought... but I would be nervous without an emergency drain line, though (although many tanks do it with only a durso drain and a single return).

 

[theblackpearl]

I have (2) one inch drain bulkeads on my 93 cube.

The nice thing about having an oversized pump is you can build a manifold and have that pump run a media reactor or a refugium or both

 

[Dumaurier7]

You should not downsize the unless you plan to feed a manifold or run a minimum flow line off the discharge back to the sump in order to satisfy the pump.

 

[mfinn]

A Vectra L1 is really over kill for a 90 IMO.
Even with reactors.
I'd ask the place you bought it from if you could exchange it. Many places would if the box is still sealed.
I think a better pump is the Vectra M1, or check out the VarioS pumps.

 

[butrflynlambie]

Yes the return is definitely a 1/2 inch bulkhead. I confirmed it with the aquarium builder. The drain is 1 inch. I assumed it was 3/4 inch and was surprised when my bulkhead would not fit.

I bought a deep blue 65gal before buying the 90gal and that one is a 1 inch drain and 3/4 inch return.

It's a nice aquarium from SCA that I found used, rimless starfire and substantially thicker than the deep blue. I don't think it is wise to attempt to re-drill it.

I did make my own custom return from inside the overflow to the spray bar. They used some odd sized plumbing that didn't seem to be the schedule 40, a little smaller. It just didn't fit right in the 1/2 in bulkhead (too loose).

Thank you for the comments....

 

[butrflynlambie]

just for clarity
drain is 1 inch
return is 1/2 inch

pump is 1 inch

 

[Sleepydoc]

How much flow were you hoping to have? The L1 strikes me as being significantly oversized for your setup. Even the M1 would probably be too big. Yes, you can dial down the DC pumps to go slower, but it's kind of like getting a Ford F350 to pull a Burley.

 

[Dylan Grech]

I personally wouldn't use a drain pipe any smaller than 1.5" for the vectra L1. But if you have the option go for 2x 1"
The primary 1" drain would be under full siphon with a ball valve and have the secondary 1" as a backup.

 

[butrflynlambie]

I asked ecotech support if I could trade it in for an M1. Since I unboxed it... they won't do a trade.

They recommended I dial back the pump to 30% output.

Dylan... I wanted a 150gal with a synergy shadow overflow. The tank I have right now is a 90 gallon with a Durso 1 inch drain and a 1/2 inch return. Craigslist find. My basement took all of my money for now... someday in the future perhaps.

 

[butrflynlambie]

Dry fitting the plumbing. I decided to use the 3/4 inch pipe and reduce to 1/2 right under the tank just before the bulk head.

I was trying to fit a check valve in. I am running out of vertical space though. I was contemplating branching from the vertical bar to a horizontal manifold (last picture), but I think it might defeat the purpose of trying to use the check valve in the first place (if I have a branch before the check valve, I am thinking that it will just siphon out through the manifold.).

Please let me know if the current setup looks good or if there are any foreseeable problems with this plumbing.

Thanks!!

 

[mfinn]

I'd ditch the check valve.
Just set the place your return goes into the tank high enough to handle the water when it drains back to the sump when you turn off the return pump or in case of a power outage.

 

[mfinn]

I'm sure you also realize it, ( just in case) but unless the dry fit process includes pushing the pvc pipe all the way into the fitting socket, everything may be a tad short when you glue it up.

 

[Dumaurier7]

Although not required a check valve is highly recommended to protect the pump by preventing back flow through it which can damage the impeller and /or rotor over time.

 

[mfinn]

Although not required a check valve is highly recommended to protect the pump by preventing back flow through it which can damage the impeller and /or rotor over time.

I've never, ever heard that.

Do you have any links to pump manufactures to support your claim?

I've used many different brands of pumps and have not seen that in any pump manuals or websites.

 

[Sleepydoc]

I'm sure you also realize it, ( just in case) but unless the dry fit process includes pushing the pvc pipe all the way into the fitting socket, everything may be a tad short when you glue it up.

+1 Check valves are notorious for leaking and have to be regularly cleaned and monitored to stay competent. They also increase resistance to flow, add another site for leaks and have caused clogs/obstructions. Mfinn's suggestion to size the sump properly is good advice.

Although not required a check valve is highly recommended to protect the pump by preventing back flow through it which can damage the impeller and /or rotor over time.

Huh? I've never heard this and can't think of a electrical or mechanical reason for this to occur.

 

[Dumaurier7]

It is a fact , I work in heavy industry (petroleum chemical) and it's a standard, all pumps are fitted with a discharge check-valve. If u think about it, when you reduce the power on the pump it will not be able to push the main discharge column of water forward such as during feed mode , it will still be running but at a slower speed to continue feeding the manifold , chiller etc. without a check valve the water column has no where to go but backwards whilst the pump is still pushing water forward, these two opposing forces can severely damage the PLASTIC rotating components of the pump.

 

[mfinn]

It is a fact , I work in heavy industry (petroleum chemical) and it's a standard, all pumps are fitted with a discharge check-valve. If u think about it, when you reduce the power on the pump it will not be able to push the main discharge column of water forward such as during feed mode , it will still be running but at a slower speed to continue feeding the manifold , chiller etc. without a check valve the water column has no where to go but backwards whilst the pump is still pushing water forward, these two opposing forces can severely damage the PLASTIC rotating components of the pump.

Yeah, I worked in oil refinery's and other mills for 40+ years, and maybe you are right about the industrial sized pumps and pipes ( 2" up to 20" or even bigger) , but I highly doubt the same principles apply in aquarium pumps.
If this did apply, the pump makers would be all over it with warnings where warranty claims were made.

 

[jimmyzhou]

I purchased a return pump before I bought a tank. I have the tank now. It's a 90gal 35x24x24. Smaller than I intended but my budget shrank after my basement renovation.

The L1 has a 1 inch port, while the tank itself has a 1/2 inch bulkhead. I will need to reduce from 1" to 3/4" to 1/2" on my plumbing to match the bulkhead.

It is a DC pump so I was thinking I could dial it down, but after installing the bulkhead I am questioning if the pump is just too big...

Will I have any issue with using the L1 or do I need to find something smaller.

Anyone think this is ok or am I going to be a problem?

Hi I use L1 on my 48x24x24 120 gallon use 80-85% of power on the return. But on the L1 I use 1 1/2 buck head join the side pipe form brs and connect to 1 1/2 pvc with unio valve for easy remove cleaning. Than change to 1 inch back into tank I can get u more pics of my pluming if u need more pics let me know I don't have them right now all.