Ro/di

FYIL If anyone is interested in how an RO/DI system works, I made this video last year.

[video=youtube;3ZUPtt-H-kk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3ZUPtt-H-kk&list=UUm8WwdJKr6FA71Cl3XfdvMQ[/video]
 
No this system will work excellent, you won't find anything that works as well anywhere else guaranteed. The only change you might need to make based on your tap water quality is a different $5 flow restrictor. I believe the new ones come with two restrictors standard, one for 3:1 waste ratio and one for 2:1 ratio. If your water is extremely hard and/or high TDS you can maybe get by with the 3:1 or spend $5 and get a replacement 4:1 restrictor from Spectrapure. I wouldn't even consider a different system.
1smile1
Thank you!!
 
Back when I was putting my reef system together for the first time I scored at a garage sale with perfect, it will never happen again, timing.

I stumbled on a whole pile of RO filter parts piled in a box, simply because I ask if they had any aquarium stuff. They went back into the house and came out with the basket case. I had to buy new membranes, filters cartridges, and add a pair of DI canisters and fillers. BUT, it provides 000 water to both my reef system and my change water tank via two branches after the primary filters. From this pile of junk my reef and change waters have their own membranes and DI stages. Both branches have electric shut off valves before the membranes controlled by their own ATO valves. I have two, two stage TDS meters. One meter tells me the TDS of each output. The other two selections, of meter readings, are one at raw water supply feed, and one a after primary filter stages. With this set-up I can tell when to change what series of filters. There is no way I have $150 in the whole shooting match, and that money was for filter cartridges, 2 membranes, and 2 DI stages. I paid $5 for the box.

Point being, 000 water is 000 water, price has no bearing. Just be sure you have TDS meters.
 
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After reading this I don't feel too bad on the unit I just bought. Found one used for $60 that came with a pressure gauge, 2 new filters, and a dual TDS meter. I hooked it up and seems to run great. 0 TDS coming out. It has a small leak on the first canister but think I can fix it fairly easy. I'm not sure what brand it is but seems to be a decent model.

Maybe someone can help, anyone have one like this?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359783863.285742.jpg


I believe it's a BRS 4 stage from the matching I've done. No marks so no way to tell.
 
After reading this I don't feel too bad on the unit I just bought. Found one used for $60 that came with a pressure gauge, 2 new filters, and a dual TDS meter. I hooked it up and seems to run great. 0 TDS coming out. It has a small leak on the first canister but think I can fix it fairly easy. I'm not sure what brand it is but seems to be a decent model.

Maybe someone can help, anyone have one like this?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359783863.285742.jpg


I believe it's a BRS 4 stage from the matching I've done. No marks so no way to tell.

It doesn't matter who sold it. They came just like that from no telling how many dealers. They just bundle up the parts and put their stickers on them.

You used to could buy all or most of the parts except the DI at Home Depot. Now that industry is shifting to screw on / throw away filter canisters instead of the ones where you can replace the elements.
 
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0 tds is 0 tds, it doesn't matter about the brand. Your fish and coral will never know. Just make sure you replace all your filter elements in a timely matter.
 
If it makes some reefers feel better here is a picture of my hodgepodge RODI set-up which works perfectly.
If you are trying to figure out how to do some plumbing on yours, well I'll walk you through this one.

This mess is under my desk. The two red ball valves are supply and return from a 20 long display refugium with clams, a few corals in TLC isolation, & 15 mangroves scattered about in a 1.5" deep sand bed. That rig sets on my desk behind my computer monitors, which explains all the steel bracing. This refugium is in addition to the NOT for display one in the main cabinet next to my sump. The dark wood to the right seen in this picture is actually the left end of my main display cabinet. That's right! While I work at my desk I have my main display to my right next to my desk to keep a sense of value with the true meanings of life.

The two DI canisters on the right are about due for a refill of material and you can see the color change about midway up both both canisters. The material is ready and waiting.

The two RO membrane canisters are in the center. You can see the flow restrictors below them and which are plumbed to the attic and drain into a toilet vent pipe to the sewer.

The blue line to the bottom right goes to my change water tank (poly trash can).

The difficult to see mess between the top of the left DI canister and the all red valve handle is the electric shut-off valves which are controlled by the ATO's. They shut off the pre-filtered water supply before my RO membranes.

If you want to play "where's Elmo" you can find all four TDS sensors. (before pre-filters, after pre-filters, and after each DI.

The white things on the far left are the drivers to my LED's over the display refugium above.

The blue ball valve is from the cold side supply at the hot water heater.

For those interested in the flow, it is: From cold water supply, to a ball valve, to the first TDS sensor, to first pre-filter, to 2nd pre-filter, to the 2nd TDS sensor, to a tee, branching to two electric shut-offs, each branch feeds one RO membrane, which feed one DI canister each, then comes the final two TDS sensors (one after each branch), then one branch feeds my reef and one feeds my change water tank. The by-pass lines from the membranes both go through flow restrictors and into the attic and dump into a toilet vent pipe.

This proves your RODI doesn't have to be pretty to work perfectly. ;)


RODI system - fragmatic.jpg
 
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YES! Thank you. Thank you AZDesert for the information but im with these other guys. 0 tds is 0 tds. My water general machine has done the exact same job as my AWI 5 stage and I barely paid half for a new unit. It's the guys inside that matter most.

Putting on the addons like booster pumps and inlines and pressure guages will mount up but all of the bells and whistles came with my ebay machine. I see all of the parts at walmart and ace to make a new one for 100s of dollars to put them together... so this water general was maybe 80 bucks brand new and im happy with the purchase.
 
0 TDS is not 0 TDS. It depends on the cost to get there and how long it stays there. Also the inline meters are only so accurate so an indicated 0 TDS may very well be much higher since many weakly ionized substances do not register well on them.

Higher quality systems have better sediment and carbon block filters which protect the RO membrane better so it lasts longer and produces lower TDS. The ywill also have better DI resin which will last longer and actually turn that low TDS RO water into true 18.2 megaohm resistivity o TDS water. There really is a difference. With my Typhoon III DI lasted 150 gallons and by then it was 3-4 TDS. With my MaxCap DI resin lasts over 1000 measured gallons before it starts to show even 1 TDS. The cost savings in DI alone easily justifies the better system.
FAQ FOR REVERSE OSMOSIS
FAQ1 by SpectraPure
 
My set-up is well into the 1K gallons easy. ;)

IMO, it is not about the price of the system, it is about the quality of filter cartridges, membranes, and DI resin they come with or you buy to reload them. And yes, that does or can effect the price of the system IF they indeed do come with the high end internals. But the cheapest system with enough canisters can be later loaded with the better innards. My set-up is an example of how that can be done, I got the hardware for $5 in a garage sale then loaded it wisely.

;) What does not read in the meters is the non electrical conducting substances in the water. When the electrical conducting substances get below a value the meter can measure it will read 000, and this is only a relative number of which this device is the best we have for a reasonable cost. What is so wonderful about all this is it does however give us a useful and reasonable value to share and compare from reef set-up to reef set-up, and a consistent enough reference standard with which to watch for evaluation of our RODI system's performance.

;) IMO, once you get to 000 conductivity, yes there is a difference but the difference is splitting hairs far beyond the scope required. I say conductivity because that is actually what the meter is measuring, then it is calculated for a TDS value before it is posted to the LED display. I have to assume that if the substances which conduct electricity have been removed to a point about 185 times less than it was in my case, then the other substances must be responding to similar reductions. The greatness is that I have this TDS meter method to know my water is (again in my case) at least 185 times more pure than it was out of my tap. (185ppt / 1ppt is 185 times as pure. Thus my statement of 000 being at least 185 times as pure.)

Less we forget pure water will not conduct electricity at room temperature, it is the impurities in the water that provide an electron path for conductivity of which the TDS meter can then give a reading. The TDS meter is a great reference tool!

So therefore to be pure I revise my statement: In my opinion, 000 TDS is 000 TDS within the reasonable tolerances and scope of this hobby. It seems to me, we have impurities and substances entering our reef tanks via the air, off our tools, in our dose compounds, in the frozen foods, and no telling where else in volumes which dwarf the amounts of variations in RODI systems reading 000 with a properly working TDS meter. Do you agree? ;) I love this hobby, and I love having this forum for healthy discussions to learn from each other, don't you? This is good stuff and is good for the hobby.

LOL, I read somewhere, I forget where, where a person was wondering what had happened to the TDS reading of his water. All he did was add the salt mix to the proper salinity and his TDS reading was seriously bad. He simply didn't understand or hadn't been told that salt makes water conduct electricity to the nth degree. He thought his water had been contaminated somehow because his TDS meter read high. This is why I like to take the opportunity to once and a while explain the conductivity and TDS meter theory in a simple way, so new comers will realize we are not actually measuring impurities but are measuring how impurities effect conductivity.

Now, if someone would be so kind as to provide information showing how the differences in non conductive substances passed by less expensive membranes and DI resins, while a TDS meter in good working condition is reading 000, is a serious concern in a reef tank I would absolutley love to hear and learn about that. I am sure other reefers would want to know about that too. Frankly, all I have to go by is the relative assumption.
 
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Yes it does but you can get a high quality absolute rated 1 micron sediment filter, 12,000 gallon 1 micron carbon block, specially treated and batch tested high rejection rate 90 GPD RO membrane, capillary tube flow restrictor, inline pressure gauge and full size 20 oz refillable DI filled with fesh custom blended reef specific DI resin from the best in the business with 27 years in the same AZ city for only $125.
www.spectrapure.com
FAQ1 by SpectraPure
 
Yes it does but you can get a high quality absolute rated 1 micron sediment filter, 12,000 gallon 1 micron carbon block, specially treated and batch tested high rejection rate 90 GPD RO membrane, capillary tube flow restrictor, inline pressure gauge and full size 20 oz refillable DI filled with fesh custom blended reef specific DI resin from the best in the business with 27 years in the same AZ city for only $125.
www.spectrapure.com
FAQ1 by SpectraPure

That is nice information. I see that point clearly a value, agreed. I will be checking to see if I can get those to fit my canisters, next buy!
 
Great stuff. After reading the spactrapure FAQ page I went to check my city water report.
And, wow I needed this system bad!
 
Yes it does but you can get a high quality absolute rated 1 micron sediment filter, 12,000 gallon 1 micron carbon block, specially treated and batch tested high rejection rate 90 GPD RO membrane, capillary tube flow restrictor, inline pressure gauge and full size 20 oz refillable DI filled with fesh custom blended reef specific DI resin from the best in the business with 27 years in the same AZ city for only $125.
www.spectrapure.com
FAQ1 by SpectraPure

Az, are these refurb units a good buy? I've been eyeing one up for a while just wasn't sure if it was good being that its a refurb. Any info would be great
 
Az, are these refurb units a good buy? I've been eyeing one up for a while just wasn't sure if it was good being that its a refurb. Any info would be great

I have one of the refurbs and when I got it it looled brand new and works great

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
Everything inside is brand new, its just they may have a scratch or scuff on a housing . Excellent buy.
 
Getting my Maxcap in today. Tap water TDS reads 190 on my handheld TDS meter.
Will this greatly reduce life of filters/membranes?
 
Not at all, 190 is below the national average of around 250. I would suggest a water softener to anyone with a RO or RO/DI though as that alone greatly extends the life of the membrane.
Regardless of usage or water quality, the ediment can carbon block filters need to be replaced every 6 months or if you have pressure gauges and a low range chlorine test kit and use them as needed a little longer when you start to see pressure drop across the filters and/or chlorine breakthru. Its easier to stick with the 6 month rule and always disinfect the system while you have it down.
 
Not at all, 190 is below the national average of around 250. I would suggest a water softener to anyone with a RO or RO/DI though as that alone greatly extends the life of the membrane.
Regardless of usage or water quality, the ediment can carbon block filters need to be replaced every 6 months or if you have pressure gauges and a low range chlorine test kit and use them as needed a little longer when you start to see pressure drop across the filters and/or chlorine breakthru. Its easier to stick with the 6 month rule and always disinfect the system while you have it down.
Thanks again AZ!! I wish i could afford a water softener system. Maybe in the future..
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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