Ro/di

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m and m

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So I'm looking to buy a ro/di unit this Friday what would you guys reccomend?it needs to be able to be hooked up to a outdoor hose and I would love to keep this on the cheaper side if possable. I feel I have risked to much on no using ro water and I am finaly starting to see colors lacking do to it causeing the high po4 so any advivce on a unit?
 
But what are the diffrences? i obviously know the more stages the better but what do you guys use/reccomend?
 
More stages is not always better, does your water supplier use chlorine or chloramines? You need to find that out first so you know what filters to get with it. I am going to post some reading links here. Thefilterguys, Bulkreefsupply and Buckeyefieldsupply are great suppliers of RODI systems, and customer service.
As quoted from the AZDesertRat
Water is the single largest ingredient in a reef system by far, why not provide the very best? The key is consistency, with a good RO/DI you get the same consistent water quality every time, unlike purchasing water or tap water both of which you have absolutely no control over and may be hit and miss.

Do not get hung up on the word "stages", this is an old ebay ploy to make low quality drinking water systems sound like the best thing since sliced bread. They tack a few cheap filters on like a 10 micron carbon or GAC carbon, both of which are completely exhausted in 300 to 1000 total gallons of water (total gallons means all water passing thru the filter including waste so at the normal 4:1 waste ratio that’s only 60 to 200 good gallons and 240 to 800 waste gallons) or another little dinky horizontal DI with about 6 oz of resin bobbing around in it and call them "stages".

Good vendors don't play this game. Spectrapure, Bulk reef supply, and Buckeye field supply, have been building RO/DI systems for the reef hobby for 25 years. They give you a guaranteed systems with exactly what you need, no extra carbons, no small horizontal DI's no extra taste and odor carbons etc.
A single 0.5 micron carbon block is good for up to 20,000 gallons of normally chlorinated or chloraminated tap water, a 1 micron is good for 9000 gallons. No need for extra carbons and the associated pressure drop they cause. A good vertical 20 oz DI like they use is good for much more treated water than two or 3 or more of the small horizontals since it has a true engineered bottom up flow pattern so all water and resin come into contact with each other unlike horizontals that channel and short circuit.

For a reef quality RO/DI 4 stages is perfect, if you want to add something make it a second DI like the MaxCap where you get something for your money.
 
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I would not go with a 100gpd system since the RO membrane is only 90% effecient where almost all others run 96-98%.
Final TDS has absolutely nothing to do with the prefilter and carbon and should not be used to judge filter condition. Final TDS is a direct result of the RO membrane performance and DI performance, the others are just there to protect the membrane which in turn protects the DI resin.

Prefilters and carbons remove TSS or Total Suspended Solids, big stuff like sediment, particulates and colloidal materials, and VOCs like chlorine not TDS or Total Dissolved Solids, small atomic level things actually dissolved in the liquid which is what the RO membrane and DI take care of. Suspended and Dissolved are two different things treated and monitored in two different ways.

You change prefilters and carbons on a 6 month schedule like clockwork or when a low level chlorine test kit tells you have chlorine breakthrough and an inline pressure gauge tells you have a large pressure drop, one or the other or both. The easiest way is every 6 months by far.

You change DI resin when you start to see TDS breakthrough. You change the RO membrane when it is no longer producing a 94-98% reduction in incoming TDS or rejection rate or when the cost of DI replacements starts eating you out of house and home! Again the pre and carbon have very little to absolutely no effect on TDS.

Always remember to disinfect the system while you have it down to reduce or eliminate the possibility of virus or bacteria growth inside the unit. It only takes about 5 minutes and could be a lifesaver! Quoted from AZDesertRat

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/report.php?p=299862
 
Do i need the 5 stage though? It seems like the 4 stage would be fine unless im missing somthign.,
 
I would use a 5 stage in you have a public municapality water, and if your water has chloramines or goes to it you will need 5 stages. A sediment filter, 2 carbons for the chlorine and or chloramine, your RO membrane and then a DI. If you have a private well then you could go with a 4 stage and use 1 good carbon filter.
 
I am being misquoted a little here. I would not recommend Filter Guys if they were the last vendor on the planet. They have also only been in business about 3 years, not nearly the 25 years like Spectrapure or Air Water & Ice, both very reputable vendors along with Russ at Buckeye Field Supply or Marc at Melev's Reef.

Don't get hung up on stages, its what thye contain that makes the difference. Also do not get concerned with chloramines, any good system with a 1 micron or smaller carbon block and a vertical 20 oz DI with fresh mixed bed resin will make short work of chloramines.

Spectrapure just changed their sale flyer and the best value in a reef quality RO/DI is the CSPDI found here:
SpectraPure Customer Appreciation SALE! 20% - 50% off

For $145 you get a batch tested 90 GPD RO membrane, the best 0.5 micron prefilter and 0.5 micron 20,000 gallons carbon block, a full size vertical DI filled with fresh specially blended SilicaBuster DI resin, a dual inline TDS meter and a pressure gauge. I don't find anything else even close for that price.

My next choice would be the 75 GPD Premium found here:
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=168&Sub=166
For only $169 you get a 75 GPD Dow Filmtec RO membrane, 1 micron prefilter, o.6 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block, full size vertical DI with mixed bed nuclear grade resin, a pressure gauge, thermometer and hand held TDS meter, again an excellent value.

Others you might consider include www.melevsreef.com www.purelyh2o.com and www.airwaterice.com .
 
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Thanks i will be going with that first link you posted. Thanks alot for that help that does seem like a great deal.
 
I use a four stage unit and have been happy with it for years BRS is a great way to go too.
 
I just got a 5 stage from Air,Water and Ice....The reefkeeper Typhoon.....$149 you choose 75gpd or 100gpd and water hook up....I haven't hooked it up yet but from initial looks it looks to be quality and not cheaply built....Plan on hooking it up this week....I was the same as you M and M gone to long with hauling 5g jugs of water from the fish shop not getting the results fro their RO/DI can't control the quality from them. algea problems on/off continuously.....I am sure in a short period of time the ability to control water quality will be the biggest benefit for my reef....Who ever you choose toget it from I think the ability for you to control your water will make an impact on the viberance of your corals faster then anything we can do for our reefs, now I just need to hook it up...Good luck.
 
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the first link (spectapure) 4 stage at $145 seems like a good one.
I think 4 stage should be sufficient, but each locality can be different so ask around your local reefers if anyone is not getting good results with 4 stage.

you can get a decent 4 stage on ebay for $139, and it is virtually identical to most 4 stage.
 
Boy that spectra Pure for 145.00 is a bargain if it comes with a 96-98% membrane and 4-1 waste ratio, the Duel in-line TDS meter separately is about 35.00 and a pressure gauge is about 10.00.
 
Any water supplier that services either 25 or 50 customers has to have a water report available to the public and tested every year.
 
Again, ignore the word "Stage", it means nothing. Pay attention to the filters that are contained in the stages not the number or amount of them. For a reef quality RO/DI you need 4 stages, thats it no more no less unless you want dual DI or have horrible sediment or particulate problems that may require a seperate filter.
The word stages became popular wit hthe ebay vendors who try to pass off low quality drinking water systems as reef quality systems. The use magic words like 6 Stages or 7 Stages and try to make you think you are getting the best thing since sliced bread when in fact you are getting a low quality drinking water system is all. Just because they add a post RO/DI granular carbon filter you will throw away since it actually adds TDS or a second granular carbon filter after the prefilter that only lasts 300 total gallons, yes 300 total so thats 60 RO/DI gallons and 240 waste gallons! Or two little horizontal hollow tubes with some outdated resin bobbing around and short circuits or channels so is ineffective at treatment.

You want a single prefilter in as low a micron range as possible so it does its job of protecting the expensive carbon block. Always get a prefilter the same micron range as the carbon block or smaller so it does not allow particulates and colloidal materials to plug or foul the billions of tiny pores in the carbon block. An absolute rated prefilter is far superior to a nominal rated prefilter, huge difference in quality and performance.
Next you want a single carbon block in the 0.5 or 0.6 micron range not two carbons. Two gives you greater pressure drop which slows production and lowers final quality. Even if you have chloramines stick with one 20,000 gallons chlorine guzzler, most utilities only feed 1 to 2 mg/L chloramines so a single carbon is more than sufficient in a 100GPD or less system. Actually DI is more important than carbon when itcomes to chloramines since the carbon takes care or only the chlorine portion, its the DI that polishes off the ammonia since RO only is only partially effective at all forms of amonia.
Next you want a 96-98% or higher rejection rate RO membrane since they are the workhorse. Remember this, for every 2% you increase the RO membrane efficiency you DOUBLE the life of your DI resin. This is why Spectrapure tests and treats their membranes for best performance, no one else offers this service or guarantee.
Lastly you want a full size 20 oz vertical DI with a bottom up flow pattern. If you want to improve upon anything add a second DI as with the MaxCap, this is where you get bang for the buck not carbons or prefilters.

You cannot get the same quality on ebay guaranteed. Yes some of the larger vendors like PurelyH2O sell on ebay as H2O Science but for $139 you get a basic system without a TDS meter or pressure gauge, and with large micron filters and little else. You will not get a tested membrane, specially blended DI resin, a capillary tube flow restrictor, etc.

Stages are not all equal so look at quality not quantity.

All public or community water systems must provide each user what the EPA calls a Consumer Confidence Report annually. The problem is its already a year old so again was a snapshot in time when it was sampled and it only has to contain those things that were tested in that calendar year. not all things get tested every year, many are on 3 year cycles so it may not contain everything. Its best to find a buddy at the utility who has an interest in the hobby such as myself. I used to get calls all the time asking about both freshwater and saltwater fish and coral keeping and I even kept a 37 gallon ref system in my office on display and had a freshwater system in the lab.

The Spectrapure system comes with a 98+% batch tested and treated high efficiency membrane, SilicaBuster DI resin, capillary tube flow restrictor, dual inline TDS meter, inline pressure gauge, hose bib adapter, 0.5 micron absolute rated prefilter, 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon chlorine guzzler carbon block and more. You can find the owners manual here:
http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/CSPDI_MANUAL.pdf

Spectrapure is also a Sponsor of this site and has a Sponsors Forum with lots of great information for all. Check them out.
 
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I'm also using the Typhoon III from Air, Water, and Ice - and I highly recommend them. Great customer service and easy to order replacement filters ect. Also they sponsor R2R - check em out, you won't be disappointed.

Air, Water, & Ice
 

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