RO, TDS and DI problem

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Looking for advice. I'm Getting only a few weeks out of my DI resin and it's starting to get expensive, just want to know if my RO is the problem or it's what I have to deal with.

No name RO system
Incoming TDS 26o
150gpd RO (2-75gpd) Both installed January 2018
after RO its coming out at 22ppm
2 stage DI polishes it to 1ppm
BRS Booster pump(80psi)
automatic flusher also installed.

Would getting a new system be my answer, as the wife is telling me to get one, but not sure if that's the answer
 
Are you flushing the system before and after each use or just before?
 
Yes, I have the automatic flusher from BRS, so it gets flushed before and after.
 
How long have you had the RO membranes? I believe a typical rejection rate is in the area of 92-95% and you are getting an 84% rate. The higher than normal TDS to the DI resin are exhausting it faster.
 
auto flush flushes at start up and then once every hour of use.
If you are getting 22 after RO then your membrane is not really stopping/removing efficiently. are they seated properly? are they off brand? right size/type?
 
When were the pre filters last replaced? If the prefilters clogged or lowered pressure to your ro membranes they wont filter as efficiently. Do you know what kind of psi you're getting at the membranes?
 
lot of people make a mistake of installing the booster pump at the beginning of the rodi system. its best use is after all the prefilters and before the membrane, is it installed correctly?
 
They are Dow 75gpd membranes installed Jan of this year (2018) Yah they seem to be seated fine.
The auto flush does work, when it fires up I see my pressure drop for the 15sec ish and also at the end when my tank is full.
 
lot of people make a mistake of installing the booster pump at the beginning of the rodi system. its best use is after all the prefilters and before the membrane, is it installed correctly?

This I do not have! I just went by BRS videos on the install, and have it before all my filters. So I will try swapping this tomorrow.
 
This I do not have! I just went by BRS videos on the install, and have it before all my filters. So I will try swapping this tomorrow.
If your prefilters clog up, the psi at the ro will be lower and your efficiency drops. You may want to replace your prefilters as well if this is the case :)
 
my pre filter is new, as well as my carbon filters and I also have a filter strainer before the whole unit
 
Here is a few diagrams i found online to help placement.
booster-pump-diagram.jpg

BoosterPumpwithHighPressureSwitch_zps2e273a64.png
 
Something is not right. You should be getting 97% rejection min from the Dow membrane. Whats the pressure at the membrane? Are you sure you are not running the waste water through the DI? Correct flow restrictor for the membranes used? Maybe lots of chlorine or chloramine in the water killing the membranes? High water temp killing membranes? I have a Spectrapure 90gpd with 4 stages, brand does not matter. I get 60 psi at the membrane, 475 ppm in 8 out and 0 after DI. You should be seeing about 2 ppm after the membranes.
 
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I have never flushed my membrane and i get about 4ppm. I have a brs system and it works great. I originally got the 4 stage value but after watching some of the new vidoes in have up graded to a 7 stage. Regardless it should always be 0 at the end.
 
I have my pressure gauge after mt first membrane before it enters the second and it reads 80psi.
I have the 500 flow restrictor that brs recommended to me when I bought the flush kit, and as far as I know I have all the lines installed properly. I am going to print off the diagram Dr. Reef sent and check everything again tomorrow. That's kind of why I was wondering if I should just bite the bullet and grab a new setup. But If that's not the problem then I would have just flushed a few hundred dollars down the drain
 
How does one tell which way the auto shut off valve is suppose to face by the diagrams? I know it's labeled in and out but does it matter which one is which?
 
auto shut off and pressure swtiches/auto flush all should be one way in and one way out and should be clearly marked in/out or by flow arrow etc.
 
Get the booster pump installed correctly and report back on that. I would check just to be sure you are not runnning waste into the di. The waste will be flowing a lot faster than the ro membrane output.
 
Is there a diagram showing whish port on the membrane housing goes to waste and which is good product water? Or does it matter so long as the good product has the check valve!

Thanks for all the input so far guys
 

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