Ro unit filter change

[Koh23]

Hello!

Few simple questions, i hope....

I have 100g ro/di unit, for about a year.

Output tds is still 0.

First question, since i cannot find original sediment and active carbon filter from that manufacturer (out of stock), can i use some other brand?

Sediment is 5 micron, connectors should be the same on most cartridges, so is there really matters what says on label? Manufacturer of osmose is Europefilter, so, parts from aquamedic, or similar should do. Or is it bad idea?

Second, cartridges replacement.... ro unit is one year old, and resin cartridge is about 7 months old. Like i said, output TDS is 0. Resin have "color changing" feature, but, i really cannot tell did color change a little, a full, or not at all....

So, do you replace cartidges and resin based on time stamp, or when TDS start showing anything but 0? I wonder should i replace sediment and active carbon cartridges following recommendation that it needs to be changed every 6 months, or should i trust tds meter?

Finaly, osmose don't have flush valve, so, what's the way to flush it? Should i flush it?

Thanx in advance!

 

[blaxsun]

A combination of time and TDS testing. If you can find any third party filters that fit definitely use them.

 

[Koh23]

So, as long as tds meter shows 0, really no need to change anything?

Stupid question, but how to test tds meter, i mean....his 0 can be 100 in real world

 

[Koh23]

Ok, quick test shows...

When disconnected di cartirdge, tds was 25. When unit was brand new, it was 3.
Ro/Water is still 0.
Source water is 160.

And, with strong flashlight, i manage to see different color, in about 1/3 of cartridge, starting from bottom.

So, resin is still working, it seems that sediment and carbon cartridges are not working optimal, so di resin is doing heavy lifting, and removing much more than it should?

Thanx!

 

[FishOkay]

Definitely you can use any cartridges if they fit, they fit and will work the same way. But i wouldn't worry about it to much if your still getting 0 tds.
Same with flush valve, don't worry about it! Your ro membrane has lasted a year and is still 0 tds without flushing it so starting now probably wouldn't really benefit you. If you wanted you could add it after the membrane but before the di resin, that would probably have some benefits mainly prolonging the di resin.

 

[Freenow54]

Hello!

Few simple questions, i hope....

I have 100g ro/di unit, for about a year.

Output tds is still 0.

First question, since i cannot find original sediment and active carbon filter from that manufacturer (out of stock), can i use some other brand?

Sediment is 5 micron, connectors should be the same on most cartridges, so is there really matters what says on label? Manufacturer of osmose is Europefilter, so, parts from aquamedic, or similar should do. Or is it bad idea?

Second, cartridges replacement.... ro unit is one year old, and resin cartridge is about 7 months old. Like i said, output TDS is 0. Resin have "color changing" feature, but, i really cannot tell did color change a little, a full, or not at all....

So, do you replace cartidges and resin based on time stamp, or when TDS start showing anything but 0? I wonder should i replace sediment and active carbon cartridges following recommendation that it needs to be changed every 6 months, or should i trust tds meter?

Finaly, osmose don't have flush valve, so, what's the way to flush it? Should i flush it?

Thanx in advance!

Think you are good but you would be surprised what you may find. I bought replacement resin on amazon. Will last me about 2 years, just have to store it out of light in sealed container There is another person who pays 20

for a cartridge forget what I paid for resin not bad. After 6 months on town water

 

[Koh23]

Ok, so for now, i'm good, but i definitely should buy filters and some resin to have in hand, when needed...

So, nothing to worry, brand new unit without di cartridge produces 3tds, now produces 25tds.....

All good?

 

[Freenow54]

Ok, so for now, i'm good, but i definitely should buy filters and some resin to have in hand, when needed...

So, nothing to worry, brand new unit without di cartridge produces 3tds, now produces 25tds.....

All good?

Not to me zero is the number I want to se. Also don't rely on color

 

[Koh23]

Not to me zero is the number I want to se. Also don't rely on color

Ok, but i have 0tds after di cartidge.

Question is related to state of sediment prefilter and active carbon, if brand new unit produces water with 3tds in my case, and now it produces 25tds, is it definitely time to change sediment and carbon cartridges? Regardless that DI removes everything to 0

 

[FishOkay]

Ok, but i have 0tds after di cartidge.

Question is related to state of sediment prefilter and active carbon, if brand new unit produces water with 3tds in my case, and now it produces 25tds, is it definitely time to change sediment and carbon cartridges? Regardless that DI removes everything to 0

Sorry I posted my reply before you did your tests, presuming you waited 10 mins before testing the tds I would say changing your pre filters would be a good shout for sure. For the life of your membrane and the efficiency of your resin

 

[LeftyReefer]

You have 25 TDS coming out of the RO membrane?
if so, you are going to be burning through DI resin pretty quickly.

Your RO membrane, if working correctly, should reject about 98% of the incoming source water TDS. if the TDS of your source water is 160, then you should only be seeing about 3 or 4 TDS out of your RO membrane if working correctly. You're seeing 25?

 

[Woodyman]

Ok, but i have 0tds after di cartidge.

Question is related to state of sediment prefilter and active carbon, if brand new unit produces water with 3tds in my case, and now it produces 25tds, is it definitely time to change sediment and carbon cartridges? Regardless that DI removes everything to 0

If your RO is not producing 3 TDS and it consistently did before it's time for a new membrane.

If you don't change your sediment or carbon then it's possible you killed the RO membrane. Your sediment levels and chlorine/chloramine content will dictate how frequently you should be changing those. If you change those regularly your RO membrane will last longer and function more efficiently.

 

[Woodyman]

Give this a read.

RO/DI Basic Guide

There are always a lot of questions regarding which RO/DI setup do I need, how many stages, how do I know when to change filters/membranes, I’m getting a weird TDS value, etc. Hopefully this clarifies a few things and helps some of you out one day. My first recommendation would be to find the...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[neo1738]

Mine says 0 (6 stage BRS RO/DI) but my triton test says I have crazy high silicone. I think 0 TDS is ok but for silicone purposes you need to change the later stages at least every year. Mine has been in 2 years but I use it mainly for top off I get premixed saltwater from the LFS for better part of a year. (100g tank).

 

[CoralB]

If your RO is not producing 3 TDS and it consistently did before it's time for a new membrane.

If you don't change your sediment or carbon then it's possible you killed the RO membrane. Your sediment levels and chlorine/chloramine content will dictate how frequently you should be changing those. If you change those regularly your RO membrane will last longer and function more efficiently.

Woodyman is on point !!!

 

[Woodyman]

Woodyman is on point !!!

I know my water! Lots of experience with RO/DI, on the hobbyist and professional side.

 

[Woodyman]

Mine says 0 (6 stage BRS RO/DI) but my triton test says I have crazy high silicone. I think 0 TDS is ok but for silicone purposes you need to change the later stages at least every year. Mine has been in 2 years but I use it mainly for top off I get premixed saltwater from the LFS for better part of a year. (100g tank).

Silicone is one of the first things to unbind from DI resin, so not surprising to see it on your triton tests.

If you do mixed beds it's best to rotate as you change so that your putting the new one last and the oldest one is the first.

 

[FishOkay]

I wouldn't necessarily say the ro membrane is dead, you can change the filters first and see, if you didnt want to jump to changing the membrane.
Alot of things effect performance of the membrane, pressure probably being the most important, if a sediment filter is heavily saturated then obviously that will lower pressure through the membrane by quite a bit I'd imagine, especially if you don't have a booster pump.

 

[Koh23]

Ok, today i flush unit, let it run about 30 minutes, then i run it assembled for another 30 minutes. Without DI cartridge.

Output TDS was 3. Then i connect DI, run another 30min, and output is 0TDS.

So, i guess there is something in that flushing, or maybe yesterdays readings was simply wrong. It's hard to believe that after 12 months, and somewhat light usage, in this time, i produced maybe around 2000L (give or take some) of water, that membrane is no good anymore.

Of course, i will replace sediment, carbon, and refill di cartridge, but, it's good to know that there is no rush, few days more-less, it wont hurt anything.

Thank you all for help!

 

[homer1475]

A flush valve will help immensely. It's supposed to "flush" the membrane of high TDS from water sitting in the canister. This is supposed to be without any restriction, just tap flow, and before the DI.