RODI Booster pump question
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chefjpaul
2500 Club Member
After the pre filters is recommended by spectrapure.
I believe the reasoning is to filter out the sediment before it can reach and potentially clog the pump.
BRS, I think recommend pre-filter, but it doesn't make sense to me.
Maybe @AZDesrtRat can chime in.
I believe the reasoning is to filter out the sediment before it can reach and potentially clog the pump.
BRS, I think recommend pre-filter, but it doesn't make sense to me.
Maybe @AZDesrtRat can chime in.
redfishbluefish
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The correct installation of a booster pump is after your last carbon block, and right before the membrane.
ZJedi945
Active Member
I just recently installed a booster pump on my system and have it before everything. The little tan thing you see on top of the dual stage DI is the prefilter. Seems like a nice little unit. A metal mesh inside of some sort.
redfishbluefish
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I'm not sure what you're saying, but you have to "mess" with the RO/DI unit to install a booster. Raw water comes into the sediment filter, then to one or two carbon blocks, and here is were you use the tubing to run over to the pump and now back to the membrane. Hope this helps.
Can't say that either configuration is "right" or "wrong," but one sure is better than the other. We always recommend that the pump be installed AFTER the prefilters. Can explain the reasoning if people are interested.
OP
OP
Squadir
Active Member
Thanks for the input guys.
how necessary is membrane flushing????
Can I pull the tubing going to the DI area to flush the membrane or will the constant removal damage the push fittings?
I'm also thinking to put in a tee with two valves to do a manual flush. I can turn off the water to the DI and open the other one to a drain to flush it and then just close off the drain and re open the DI supply.
how necessary is membrane flushing????
Can I pull the tubing going to the DI area to flush the membrane or will the constant removal damage the push fittings?
I'm also thinking to put in a tee with two valves to do a manual flush. I can turn off the water to the DI and open the other one to a drain to flush it and then just close off the drain and re open the DI supply.
Yeow - wish I had a nickle for every time this confusion has come up.
Two different concepts here:
Membrane flushing: This is done to scour the internal portions of the RO membrane, as well as rinse out the RO membrane housing. Its done by opening a path for the WASTE WATER to temporarily bypass the flow restrictor.
DI Bypass: A DI Bypass provides a way to route relatively high TDS RO water away from the DI when you start any RO system. The necessary three-way valve and fittings reroute the RO WATER.
Russ
Two different concepts here:
Membrane flushing: This is done to scour the internal portions of the RO membrane, as well as rinse out the RO membrane housing. Its done by opening a path for the WASTE WATER to temporarily bypass the flow restrictor.
DI Bypass: A DI Bypass provides a way to route relatively high TDS RO water away from the DI when you start any RO system. The necessary three-way valve and fittings reroute the RO WATER.
Russ
redfishbluefish
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If you're talking about "flushing" the first couple minutes of water after start-up, it will greatly increase the life of your DI resin. What happens when the membrane sits is that you get TDS breakthrough....and this gets flushed out the first couple minutes after startup. If you don't send it down the drain, it ends up getting taken out by the DI. BRS sells a threeway valve that is easily installed and allows you to direct that first couple minutes down the drain.
On this subject, do the rodi pre-filters work better with 40psi or 80psi? That would be the difference between pump before or pump after.Can't say that either configuration is "right" or "wrong," but one sure is better than the other. We always recommend that the pump be installed AFTER the prefilters. Can explain the reasoning if people are interested.
)
Prefilters are not the part of an RODI system that is sensitive to pressure, so I'm not sure what you're thinking here. FLOW (typically in gpm), rather than pressure (psi) is one of the criteria we use to correctly size prefilters.
Russ
Regarding the prefilter HOUSINGS tho, that's another story. Guess what is the weakest component on your system in terms of ability to withstand pressure? It's those clear housings. Especially with all the abuse they sometimes take, I'd much much rather keep the water pressure in the clear housings lower rather than higher.
Russ
Russ
RobBaglieri
Active Member
does anyone sanitize their system after replacing membranes or filters? when inserting filters your inevitably going to introduce bacteria.
