Should be done at least once a year. Instructions on our "instructions" page.
Russ
RODI Booster pump question
- Thread starter Squadir
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Russ
Yes, a RO or RO/DI system should be sanitized at least annually. I sanitize every time I replace filters. It only takes about 5 minutes.
As Russ said, booster pumps should be installed after the prefilters, at least after the sediment filter but it is easier to install it after both the sediment and carbon block so you don't have to unscrew canister fittings. Russ is one of the few smart vendors to provide a DI bypass valve in his systems which allows you to flush the TDS creep out before making RO/DI water, others flush kits do not do this. You can't go wrong with one of his systems.
As Russ said, booster pumps should be installed after the prefilters, at least after the sediment filter but it is easier to install it after both the sediment and carbon block so you don't have to unscrew canister fittings. Russ is one of the few smart vendors to provide a DI bypass valve in his systems which allows you to flush the TDS creep out before making RO/DI water, others flush kits do not do this. You can't go wrong with one of his systems.
ZJedi945
Active Member
I am curious about this? Is it just about the pressure like you said or is there another reason?
No it is so you protect the booster pump diaphragm from silt, sediment and particulates. It does not take much wear on a small pressure pump to render it useless.
My primary reason is to avoid pressurizing the prefilter housings excessively. Regardless of whether you put the pump before or after the prefilters, you should install a strainer or another type of sediment filter before the pump - so sediment reaching the pump should not be an issue. See the diagram above.
Russ
Russ
kenandmoose2
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I put a Y strainer in front of my booster pump. It picks up the larger sediment....the stuff that damages the pump. Its a fine screen basket the i clean every couple of months and works just fine for me. Im on a well and pull a fair amount of sand out of it everytime I clean it. This system has been in service for 1.5 years now and has had no problems. My pump is still working fine. I agree you need a pre filter/strainer but it doesn't need to be super fancy
this is the one i use
Perfect - that is the one we stock/use/recommend. Much less expensive than a full size housing and a polypro sediment filter. You may need to use a set of channel locks to get it open the first time you go to clean the screen.
Russ
Russ
OP
OP
Squadir
Active Member
I don't have 60 going into the pump lol, I have 25psi (tap pressure) going through the sediment and carbon stages. It goes into the booster and I have it set to 65PSI to the membrane.
I remember reading something about higher PSI through the membrane leading to better "filtration" resulting in less TDS pre DI stage.
I cant find the article so I'm not too sure if my memory server me correctly. Is this right or will I cause more damage than good at say 80 PSI?
kenandmoose2
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Mine runs between 85 and 100 psi
ngvu1
Valuable Member
Do we flush the booster pump too????? I have never heard of that but I think there is some water inside the booster pump after each usage.....And this water is after pre-filter stage so it is not as bad....just a thought!
kenandmoose2
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The flush will go through the booster but the flush is for the membrane/s.
ngvu1
Valuable Member
I have 55 psi coming in. Don't know the psi before the booster but I crank the output of the booster to 95 psi. My aquatic life booster pump cranks out 110 psi when new. Then it drops slowly to 65 over about 15 months of usage. I had it serviced and they told me the out put is 90-95 now. I had not plugged it back in to see
If you go to the expense of buying a booster pump, install it in the optimum position (after the prefilters), and crank up the pressure to 80 psi. Off brands (non-Aquatec) are often not adjustable.
Russ
Russ
Yes there are advantages to running higher than 60 psi. Two big ones are increased GPD without adding dual membranes or a larger membrane and to me most importantly is membranes become more efficient at higher pressures meaning your rejection rate improves. This can be very beneficial when you consider for every 2% you improve the rejection rate, or 96% up to 98%, you double the life of your DI resin which decreases your cost per treated gallon of water.
My 9 year old RO membrane is boosted to between 95-100 psi and is still operating at over 99% rejection rate on 560 TDS softened water.
My 9 year old RO membrane is boosted to between 95-100 psi and is still operating at over 99% rejection rate on 560 TDS softened water.
Good points. Here's some data for a trial run with a Filmtec 75 gpd showing what the Rat Man refers to regarding rejection rate. The improvement in rejection rate is most apparent down at the low pressures. As you reach and exceed the factory spec pressure (50 psi of Filmtec) the curve flattens out.
Russ
Russ
Dr. Reef
www.drreefsquarantinedfish.com
two points:
1 only thing in the whole rodi system that is pressure driven is membrane. rest of the system is flow. so it makes sense to place the booster after pre filters and before memebrane to get the most out of it.
2nd. pre filter housing are not made to withstand such higher pressure and i have read reports from people cracking the housings due to booster pump usage.
1 only thing in the whole rodi system that is pressure driven is membrane. rest of the system is flow. so it makes sense to place the booster after pre filters and before memebrane to get the most out of it.
2nd. pre filter housing are not made to withstand such higher pressure and i have read reports from people cracking the housings due to booster pump usage.
Correct on both points Dr. Reef.
The most common cause of the clear housings failing is over-tightening. After lubricating the oring, the housing should be hand tightened only, and maybe nudged just a hair (like less than 1/8) with a wrench. If it still leaks at the threads, then it is time for a new oring. Here is a housing from another vendor that was over-tightened. The housing will fail at an unexpected time when it is pressurized. TAKE HOME MESSAGE: Use oring lube (food grade silicone grease) and don't overtighten.
